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SUCCESS!!!!.... sorta :(

  • Thread starter Thread starter Swede958
  • Start date Start date Dec 29, 2003

Swede958

Founding Member
Dec 17, 2001
712
0
0
Austin, TX
Dec 29, 2003
#1
  • Dec 29, 2003
  • #1
I got it running!!! I got the dash in today (minus the psg side plate) and started up my car for the first time in a long while!! Wow that was a good sound!!!

Ok, now, the problems... (Of course). I got the blower motor to start blowing again, but now its blowing fuses. It's not blowing them like I'm used to, the metal parts going, instead it seems like the left side of the fuse (when looking at it directly) is melting I installed one and watched it, looked just like watching a soldering gun in action. The fuse just seems to melt, not break. I am guessing that I have a short somewhere, or a bad ground. I rebuilt the blower switch (this is what dad thinks it is), sanded it down and dielectric-lubed it and put it back together. THe only thing I can think of it being is on the connector in the back, at the very top there is a loose wire. It is green, there is a green wire near it but it has a what looks like an original connector on it and it controls the a/c clutch. So I think the wire on the top goes to something else. What could be burning this fuse out??? Anyone have any suggestions?

I had a couple more questions, but can't think of them right now.

Thanks a bunch,
The Swede
 

Swede958

Founding Member
Dec 17, 2001
712
0
0
Austin, TX
Dec 29, 2003
#2
  • Dec 29, 2003
  • #2
I remembered what the other question was... since I put that fuse in, when I started my car up, I got a new light flash on that I hadn't seen before. It is in the right main guage pod of the '70 dash. With the gas and coolant guage. It just comes on when I turn the car on and says "Brake System". is this my parking brake light (it didn't stay on) or what? Do I have some sort of sensor in my car for that?

Thanks again.
The Swede
 

foghorn67

I'll save you the time and choke myself
Founding Member
Jan 10, 2002
1,532
0
46
Orange County, CA
Dec 29, 2003
#3
  • Dec 29, 2003
  • #3
Swede958 said:
I remembered what the other question was... since I put that fuse in, when I started my car up, I got a new light flash on that I hadn't seen before. It is in the right main guage pod of the '70 dash. With the gas and coolant guage. It just comes on when I turn the car on and says "Brake System". is this my parking brake light (it didn't stay on) or what? Do I have some sort of sensor in my car for that?

Thanks again.
The Swede
Click to expand...
that is your brake fluid level, these are notorius for being flakey, even with your master cylinder full and operating with good pedel pressure. check the fluid anyway.
 

NorCal66

New Member
Aug 12, 2003
334
0
0
Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA HOME
Dec 29, 2003
#4
  • Dec 29, 2003
  • #4
I've got the same problem and it's driving me crazy. I'm pretty sure it's what is causing my battery to drain when the car is off...is this happening to you as well? I'm going to replace the resistor and switch, I'll let you know if that fixes the fuse problem.
 

pabear89

Active Member
Apr 15, 2003
2,126
0
46
High in the Hills of So Ca with the Voices in My H
Dec 29, 2003
#5
  • Dec 29, 2003
  • #5
foghorn67 said:
that is your brake fluid level, these are notorius for being flakey, even with your master cylinder full and operating with good pedel pressure. check the fluid anyway.
Click to expand...


It's for an uneven pressure in the brake system.
Like your parking brake is on.
the older cars did not have fluid sensors.
If it stays on then the prop valve is sticking or stuck,
it only draws power when the key is on.

As for the blowing fuse problem, check for a grounded wire.
the green wire goes to the ac pump and should only be hot when the switch is in ac or def mode.
you may have the vac dash pot hooked up incorrectly.
it will send power to the ac pump.

PB
 

oboebrian

Founding Member
Aug 8, 2002
2,510
0
0
In the Gutter Gaurding the Closet Door against She
Dec 29, 2003
#6
  • Dec 29, 2003
  • #6
pabear89 said:
It's for an uneven pressure in the brake system.
Like your parking brake is on.
the older cars did not have fluid sensors.
/QUOTE]


Actually a lot of them did have fluid sensors, but not early 65's or 64.5 i believe, I'm about 90% sure, but i'll try and research that to make sure.
Click to expand...
 

Swede958

Founding Member
Dec 17, 2001
712
0
0
Austin, TX
Dec 30, 2003
#7
  • Dec 30, 2003
  • #7
As far as I know, the switch for the blower hasn't been touched accept for the top wire, but of course I could be wrong. PB: do you happen to have a diagram in that wonderfully helpful book of yours?

NorCal, my battery doesn't drain, so I don't think it is the exact same problem, it may be similar but with different symptoms. Tomorrow I am going to clean off the ground that I know is there for the blower motor, and if that doesn't work then find a better one. Then try and locate the ground for the switch. PB, the A/C clutch isn't hooked up at the moment, don't think that it will be grounding out on anything. I'm thinking it is either the ground for the motor, or the switch, because it would work, but after a couple seconds, expecially on high, it would melt the fuse. We will see what happens tomorrow.

Thanks for the info about that light guys, I've never seen that on my car before. Maybe the power for it will go through the fuse for the blower motor as well and b/c the fuse was blown I never saw it?

Thanks again,
The Swede
 

Edbert

Founding Member
Jul 13, 2002
3,548
32
109
Austin TX
Dec 30, 2003
#8
  • Dec 30, 2003
  • #8
pabear89 said:
It's for an uneven pressure in the brake system.
Like your parking brake is on.
the older cars did not have fluid sensors.
If it stays on then the prop valve is sticking or stuck,
it only draws power when the key is on.
Click to expand...
It's only on dual chamber master cylinder cars. It indicates one of the chambers is low on pressure which is usually caused by low fluid. I do not think that a parking brake (cable actuated) will cause that to come on.
 

Swede958

Founding Member
Dec 17, 2001
712
0
0
Austin, TX
Dec 30, 2003
#9
  • Dec 30, 2003
  • #9
Ok. update time. I spent today with a friend trying to figure out what the problem was. As far as we can tell, it is the blower motor resistor. We popped in a 20 and 30 amp fuse, both worked fine until we turned the blower on full-tilt-boogie, then they melted. My guess is that there is just something wrong with the coil in the back.

I think i ruled out the ground stuff, I rewired the blower ground to a dash support strut and since as far as I can tell the blower switch is grounded by it's case, I ran a wire from it's mounting screw to the place where my working radio is grounded... still cooking fuses on high. I really do not want to dive back in and pull everything out again to replace that one part, so I may live without a blower high setting for now. I did get the hood back on (is it just mine or do the joints in the hood seem very loose, is this normal?) and I just need to clean out my tools and install a slightly modified engine bay coverplate for the hoses coming out and I will be safe to drive... I think.

Thanks for all of the help you guys have given me!!

The swede
 

pabear89

Active Member
Apr 15, 2003
2,126
0
46
High in the Hills of So Ca with the Voices in My H
Dec 30, 2003
#10
  • Dec 30, 2003
  • #10
Swede, here's wiring dia.

PB

ok email me, darn thing will not allow it.
 
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