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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Successful removal of door moldings!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter SVT32VDOHC
  • Start date Start date Jan 12, 2008

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta
Founding Member
Nov 22, 2001
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Motor City
Jan 12, 2008
#1
  • Jan 12, 2008
  • #1
I just saved 356 dollars plus shipping!!!!!!!! I took the door moldings off the doors I am using on "Project 81 Hack Job". I heated them up with a heat gun, just for about 1 minute per side. I then squirted Windex around them to lube it up. I took a long razor knife and just kept it flat and pulled it back toward me. Took less than 2 minutes per door. They did not curl up at all, which is great, because I didn't want to spend that much on frickin moldings, and I hate the way they look without them.

My Dad is now back there stripping them to metal, and I am stuck working the counter and answering phones. He is an excellent bump man, and believe me....they need a lot of work. The good thing is they are rust free and will look perfect when he is done. Next weekend we start on the body of the car, which doesn't need much.
 

riceslayer302

Banned
Oct 3, 2006
0
1
0
CT
Jan 12, 2008
#2
  • Jan 12, 2008
  • #2
cant wait to see the final result
 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta
Founding Member
Nov 22, 2001
3,501
28
119
Motor City
Jan 12, 2008
#3
  • Jan 12, 2008
  • #3
Me too. I have been working on and off since July. Working full time and school and the girlfriend makes it hard to stay on it. I expect to be driving it by April, but even May or June won't be too bad. I have so many new parts on it, drivetrain and suspension wise, I really hope it rides like new.


OH yeah...make sure you keep posting your progress pics in your thread!!
 
E

El_CUCUY

Member
May 1, 2006
95
0
6
RGV
Jan 13, 2008
#4
  • Jan 13, 2008
  • #4
I'm going to be striping my coupe and will also remove the side door moldings but i am not to sure on what would be the most effective way to put them back on...
Which tape will you be using to put them back on and do you have a link of where i can purchase it.

Thanks
Benny
 
E

El_CUCUY

Member
May 1, 2006
95
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6
RGV
Jan 14, 2008
#5
  • Jan 14, 2008
  • #5
TTT
 

1993SSP

Founding Member
Sep 5, 2001
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Ky
Jan 14, 2008
#6
  • Jan 14, 2008
  • #6
SVT32VDOHC said:
I just saved 356 dollars plus shipping!!!!!!!! I took the door moldings off the doors I am using on "Project 81 Hack Job". I heated them up with a heat gun, just for about 1 minute per side. I then squirted Windex around them to lube it up. I took a long razor knife and just kept it flat and pulled it back toward me. Took less than 2 minutes per door. They did not curl up at all, which is great, because I didn't want to spend that much on frickin moldings, and I hate the way they look without them.

My Dad is now back there stripping them to metal, and I am stuck working the counter and answering phones. He is an excellent bump man, and believe me....they need a lot of work. The good thing is they are rust free and will look perfect when he is done. Next weekend we start on the body of the car, which doesn't need much.
Click to expand...



Your father can save himself alot of Pain in the arse getting the old glue off those moldings. Go to a place that sells auto body supplies, they make an eraser wheel that goes in a air tool but you can still put it in a drill. Follow the directions on the pack as far as the RPM's for the wheel are concerned. If you do this the moldings for the car can be stripped in as little as 30-45 minutes. The wheel will probably be 12-15 dollars but is well worth it! This is exactly what the wheel is designed for and it works like a charm!! But be warned, if you get the RPM's too high and get it too hot the wheel will warp into an egg shape, then it's a pain in the ass to try to use
 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta
Founding Member
Nov 22, 2001
3,501
28
119
Motor City
Jan 14, 2008
#7
  • Jan 14, 2008
  • #7
ElCUCUY...What I did with my fender and quarter moldings...(and will do to my door moldings) is I sprayed some adhesive remover on them, let them sit, then started scrapping with a razor blade. Once I got most of it off...I sanded it by hand with 80 grit until the metal was showing 100%. I smotthed them further with 150. I will use 3M two-sided tape. The grey stuff, not the white. The white doesn't hold as well and expands when it's wet. I will paint the surface of the body, let it dry a day or more, then stick the moldings on and paint them with the entire car. There are write-ups of people doing it different, but this is what is working just fine for me.

1993SSP--- That eraser wheel works well. Haven't used it, but I saw this guy taking the vinal stripes off an 06-07 Mustang and that thing whipped through it in no time at all. My Dad stripped these doors to metal because of previous bumpr work and multiple paint jobs on the car. So he just ran the grinder right over that crap and it came right off.....I still need to buy on of those though, because they don't hurt paint on good parts.
 

fiveohlxhatch

New Member
Sep 18, 2007
27
0
0
Jan 15, 2008
#8
  • Jan 15, 2008
  • #8
+1 on the wheel, I own one and they're great for the $15 price tag, can't wait to see more pics of project hackjob!
 
G

GTOreturns

Well-Known Member
Oct 1, 2003
51
17
59
West Coast Best Coast
Jan 15, 2008
#9
  • Jan 15, 2008
  • #9
htt
 
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