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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Supension Setup Advice

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jonnys50
  • Start date Start date Nov 11, 2015
J

Jonnys50

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Nov 11, 2015
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Nov 11, 2015
#1
  • Nov 11, 2015
  • #1
I have a 93 GT DSS setup inclusive of Trick Flow heads, Edelbrock intake, forged cranks pistions, all MSD, 24lb injectors, adj fuel pressure, 4:10, pullys, cold air, long tube, 200 wet shot, etc. Nothing extreme decent running car.

I picked up the car when I was 18 and it has now been with me more than half of my life. I need a project as well as some advice. All of the suspension on the car is stock and I am a novice when it comes to suspension, so I am looking for suggestions.

After many internal arguements, I think im going to stick with the 302, stroked to a 331 or 347 "unless an arguement to do otherwise". Probably keep my heads, ditch the systemax for a port matched trick flow intake, keep and use the components that will work, and go back to AC and keep the NOS for track.

I want this car to primarily be a street show car that I can take to the track and run mid 6-low 7's.

Advise appreciated
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
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Nov 13, 2015
#2
  • Nov 13, 2015
  • #2
whats your question?
 
J

Jonnys50

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Nov 11, 2015
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#3
  • Nov 13, 2015
  • #3
mikestang63 said:
whats your question?
Click to expand...
What is your suggestion for suspension in a street car that I would like to get 500hp out of?
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
11,606
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In the garage
Nov 13, 2015
#4
  • Nov 13, 2015
  • #4
Max Motorsports grip in a box
Wild Ride Battle boxes
 
Reactions: stykthyn

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...
5 Year Member
Jul 30, 2011
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Nov 13, 2015
#5
  • Nov 13, 2015
  • #5
When it comes to suspension brands,ideas,and opinions you're going to get differing thoughts. My opinion/advise is go with the best components you can afford. Maximum Motorsports is a go-to and has great products. UPR is a good option also. I would stay away from mass produced/cheap stuff from BBK and ford Motorsports(or whatever name they're going by these days). Team Z Motorsports has great products also.

The couple areas that you should have already done if you haven't do right away are frame connectors and the rear torque box reinforcements(battle boxes that Mike mentioned). Any good rear suspension setup with sticky tires at the track will crack/rip the area where the rear controll arms are connected to the car(torque boxes).

The setup that I'm using(and some parts that I haven't installed yet) is as follows:maximum Motorsports frame connectors,cc plates,and rear lower controll arms(which are being swapped out to team z upper and lowers-the mm lca are quality pieces though),rear box reinforcements,team z rear drag springs, mm front 150# coilovers with 10way adj strange struts and rear shocks. This setup has been really nice on the street and at present I haven't gotten to the track yet(next spring - hopefully)

Also DO NOT swap out the intake to the tfs unit. The Holley intake flows way better and if you need more have it ported(unless you're going to a tfs r). You also will need bigger injectors and I recommend getting rid of the msd distributor(known to be junk and failure). A stock ignition is more than adequate for 500 hp and 65-7k rpm without a problem. What are your motor plans? Stock block? If so they have a tendancy to crack/fail around the 500hp mark and/or repeated 6500rpms. With a stroker crank and nitrous this is going to be pushing it. Will it work? Yes but for how long? And high end forged internals won't matter(they won't fail but the block will and more than likely take out any good parts with it).
 
Reactions: v8stang289 and mikestang63

bentley429isBAC

10 Year Member
Jul 23, 2009
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Nov 14, 2015
#6
  • Nov 14, 2015
  • #6
Antirollbar. Double adjustable uppers. At least single adjustable lowers. Stock springs. At least single adjustable shocks and struts. Tubular k member, a arms and coil overs. Get it scaled. Try and get each corner as close to possible to the other side, I like to put 20 lbs more on the right rear.
 
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