Fox supercharger on OEM fox

[MrPerfect2]

Now that my cooling is working great , Kicking around idea of a supercharger on bone stock car - car runs perfect now - AOD shifts great ( has 327 gears ) what would need to be changed to use a supercharger on this car and keep it reliable as daily driver - with the least amount of stuff changed - Could I expect 50hp added and some torque ? About 1/2 second quarter mile faster ? I am guessing $2000 for parts ?

 

[africansnowowl]

You would need a bigger fuel pump and bigger injectors. Pretty much everything else you would need should come if you got a kit. For $2k, you'll probably have to look at used kits. The entry level Vortech kit, which is the cheapest, is $2800. Easily get you 50+hp, if not a lot more.

 

[Noobz347]

Yeah, 2K for the 'kit' and another thousand to wrap it all up.

 

[96pushrod]

$2000 isn’t going to happen for a blower, unless you find somebody selling stuff for CHEAP. The $2000 will be spent on a used setup and brackets, but it may be closer to $2500.

You’ll need a set of injectors and a fuel pump, say you spend $450 on those if you buy new. If you’re not getting the car tuned then you’ll need a new maf to keep up with the injectors and those run about from $150+ depending on p/n, but can easily be double that for some pro-m units. Usually If you browse b/s/t you can find people selling a set of injectors and a MAF together for good deals.

With boost it’s kind of nice to have a wideband to make sure everything is playing nice. $200 for one of those. Not 100% required for really low boost, but is nice to have.

$2000 would be tough to hit

 

[Steel1]

Bigger fuel pump, bigger injectors w/matching maf.
You're going to need a way to control fuel and timing under boost, the most rudimentary way is an old school fmu and boost timing retard.
There are far better ways now but none are cheap, programmable piggyback chip, aftermarket ecu, dyno tune etc.
Rule of thumb that I've always heard is roughly 10hp per pound of boost.

 

[TOOLOW91]

2k isn’t going to cut it . Let me say this , and i don’t mean it in a condescending way . You did not want to spend more money on an aluminum rad - even the cheaper units suggested instead you rolled the dice with a cheap single core replacement and it worked .

What are you going to do when you’re into the blower for roughly 2500 doing it as cheap as possible and now you need a new radiator because that single core can’t keep up to Florida summer temps with the aod and ac ( if it works ). Or when you need a 93 cobra water pump pulley and even the cheap re pop is 60 just for a pulley? Then you need a fuel pump plus the labor to do it . Then possibly injectors, tune , and mass air meter Unless you use a fmu which is not the preferred method but it can work .

Going the sc route even on a used car and a entry level kit isn’t going to be cheap to get it right and reliable . You have to be prepared to spend some money past your initial budget

If this is your daily driver leave it alone and enjoy it . Just my .02

 

[nickyb]

Wait,you gonna spend 2 g's for 50 hp?Get some nice entry level alum. Heads,a cheap explorer intake and your there

 

[FastDriver]

I guess that's how you know you're getting older. Used to be $1,500 for a basic blower kit.

Yes, you'll get to your goals. A modest 50 hp can be done without an intercooler with less about 5 psi. Find a used S-trim.

 

[Noobz347]

1986-1993 Supercharger in Superchargers & Parts for sale | eBay

www.ebay.com

 

[Reddevil91]

I want blower one of these days. I’m still searching for that ever possible used Flowzilla unit to pop up, but I’m also really leaning towards the newer D1X from pro charger.

 

[MrPerfect2]

TOOLOW has made a great point - I am pretty cheap , lol and yes it’s a daily driver - last thing I want is more issues with reliability . It’s a great feeling to just turn the key and drive and enjoy the sunshine without thinking of new tweaks and adjustments to get it better - thanks everyone - it’s a great head turner as is and I am grateful to have that . I found car guys are a lot like bodybuilders - never satisfied with their quest . Always wanting just a bit more and pushing the limit , until something gives... funny thing is the better looking you are in bodybuilding 9 times out of 10 the more unhealthy you are on inside - I don’t know if this is the way with heavy modified cars are they less reliable and always needing work to “ get it right “ ? Either way I will stick to my 20” guns and beer belly driving my OEM , clean and reliable convertible .

 

[Noobz347]

I want blower one of these days. I’m still searching for that ever possible used Flowzilla unit to pop up, but I’m also really leaning towards the newer D1X from pro charger.

I would talk you out of the Kenne Bell... Maybe. I dunno; It depends a lot on the conversation about what you want it to do.

 

[Blown88GT]

Reliable power is expensive. I gained 200 hp on a stock engine. Cost over $3k, 25 years ago. Centrifugal superchargers are easier on the power train, since power builds slower than other types.

 

[mikestang63]

The cheapest bang for the buck is Nitrous. For under $600 you can gain an easy 75rwhp on a stock motor with only a fuel pump and spark plug change. The cost comes in when you have to keep filling the bottle. Back in the early 90's we all ran Nitrous until putting supercharges on. I last used Nitrous about 20 years ago when it was $3 a pound. Now I hear it is is tough to get filled in certain areas.

I've put Vortech's on 4 of my Fox body cars over the years. The first was a basic A trim back in the early 90's on an otherwise stock motor. The problem is you will soon grow tired of just 50-75 more rwhp and want to swap pulleys, etc. Even if you find a good used S trim, you will want to ship it out to Vortech to have it gone through which costs if I remember about $500. I would never buy a used Vortech sight unseen unless you know the person. You will also need to decide if you want to use an FMU- which is nothing more than a bandaid that increased the fuel pressure to compensate for not swapping to larger injectors. Once you start going past the base 5-6# of boost you will want to ditch the FMU and then get at least 42# injectors, an adjustable FPR, a 255in tank fuel pump, Fuel pressure, AFR and boost gauges, and you will need a tune. Then factor in a better cooling system- radiator, E fan. Then you will need to address the PCV system with either a check valve, breathers,catch cans to address back pressure. You will want to open up the exhaust with headers, H pipe, cat back. Your stock clutch and flywheel will need to be upgraded, and so on, and so on..

$2k may get you a used S trim, injectors, MAF, but expect to invest at least another $1k to get it dialed in and running properly. I bought my current SC HO trim for $2500 4 years ago with off a guy who had less than 1000 miles on it with SCT80MM MAF, Deka 60# Injectors.Spent another $300 on an Anderson Powerpipe, $500 on dyno tuning, and another $500 on fuel, Boost, AFR gauges, cowl pod and pillar pod holders, SS lines, and another $200 misc crap like fluids, filters. PCV stuff. So probably around $4k buying mostly used parts.

As the old saying goes, how fast do you want to go/spend?

 

[Reddevil91]

I would talk you out of the Kenne Bell... Maybe. I dunno; It depends a lot on the conversation about what you want it to do.

Hmm now you have me curious as to why??? Is it just bc it’s an outdated product? So I was browsing the FB fox body forums and cam across a couple of guys who also bought the KB setup from TPS. Lo and behold they each have their Flowzilla kits in from tps and I’m kinda drooling bc I like them. What do I want do? Idk on my current set up now it would make the car even more fun. Now eventually I want to pull this 302 out and toss in a stroker motor which I was headed towards a dart block 363, but have came across a buddy who has a 351 roller block that I’m tempted to buy, just need to find time to drive south 6 hours and get it if that’s what I decide. Now there is all this talk about those blocks being prone to cracks where the cam bearings sit and it has me kinda on edge about it. Now I know there is some ppl that have tossed these blowers on stroker motors and been fine, but is it kinda like a set of heads where it will run out of gas if the motor is to big? Would I be better off going centri at that point if I’m looking to go with a bigger displacement engine? I don’t see turbo in my future, even though the price for an on3 is so reasonable. I like the pro charger set ups, but seeing that the flowzilla is actually available from this company makes me interested once again. The bad thing about the KB is tps is charging 4K, plus 500 for the flowzilla inlet.

 

[Noobz347]

Hmm now you have me curious as to why??? Is it just bc it’s an outdated product? So I was browsing the FB fox body forums and cam across a couple of guys who also bought the KB setup from TPS. Lo and behold they each have their Flowzilla kits in from tps and I’m kinda drooling bc I like them. What do I want do? Idk on my current set up now it would make the car even more fun. Now eventually I want to pull this 302 out and toss in a stroker motor which I was headed towards a dart block 363, but have came across a buddy who has a 351 roller block that I’m tempted to buy, just need to find time to drive south 6 hours and get it if that’s what I decide. Now there is all this talk about those blocks being prone to cracks where the cam bearings sit and it has me kinda on edge about it. Now I know there is some ppl that have tossed these blowers on stroker motors and been fine, but is it kinda like a set of heads where it will run out of gas if the motor is to big? Would I be better off going centri at that point if I’m looking to go with a bigger displacement engine? I don’t see turbo in my future, even though the price for an on3 is so reasonable. I like the pro charger set ups, but seeing that the flowzilla is actually available from this company makes me interested once again. The bad thing about the KB is tps is charging 4K, plus 500 for the flowzilla inlet.

Let me start out by saying that when I'm in the car and driving it, it's like nothing else. LoL

It's a 3300 lb go-kart that you will probably never top out on any street. I'm sitting here laughing with a stupid grin on my face as I type this.

I have a Dart Sportsman / 347 / AFR 205s / Blowzilla/Flowzilla / 80mm TB

I tell you what this build needs: More blower and an inter/after-cooler --and-- It needs to be a portion of the hood so that when you open it, the blower rises up with it. LoL

Every damned thing you gotta do to the motor includes pulling the blower off of the top. It's a process to get it all shoe-horned in there in the first place. I have destroyed and fabricated a dozen "special retard tools" in order to get to that one plenum manifold bolt that will have you creating new cuss words even on the times that is goes in "easy".

Be prepared to become a vacuum and oil separation/PCV systems engineer. It will come in handy

Whatever your horsepower expectations: This won't get you there. It will be more fun in your pants than you'll know what to do with but the numbers on paper will be "meh". Your torque curve should look like a shelf though. hahaha

Your 363 idea is probably more displacement than you need for a 2.1/2.2 liter SC. I know that my combo would easily benefit from a 2.5L option and a much better lower intake selection. The GT-40 lower, even ported, is small for these larger displacement small blocks.

A centri-blower is just all around, easier install to deal with. There are more size options available and it's easier to match to the expected output of the engine.

Now if you're doing it because of nostalgic reasons, I'd expect that it would make that 351 a pretty nice package. LoL I'd put in on a stock rebuild with a nice cam and good exhaust system, all day long. I [still] want to put that same combo into an old Ford pickup. 3 on the tree and a 3:55 rear end with some meat on them.

 

[revhead347]

The cheapest bang for the buck is Nitrous. For under $600 you can gain an easy 75rwhp on a stock motor with only a fuel pump and spark plug change. The cost comes in when you have to keep filling the bottle. Back in the early 90's we all ran Nitrous until putting supercharges on. I last used Nitrous about 20 years ago when it was $3 a pound. Now I hear it is is tough to get filled in certain areas.

The place I am buying nitrous from gets it from some black market dealer now. It's getting expensive. I think I dropped $56 to get a 10lb bottle filled last time. Not to mention my nitrous setup is $2k. It's not cheap.

Kurt

 

[Noobz347]

The place I am buying nitrous from gets it from some black market dealer now. It's getting expensive. I think I dropped $56 to get a 10lb bottle filled last time. Not to mention my nitrous setup is $2k. It's not cheap.

Kurt

That is about the price of the ones that I would find acceptable as well.

 

[revhead347]

That is about the price of the ones that I would find acceptable as well.

I started out with a kit I bought used for $150. It's only a matter of time before you realize how many things can go wrong with a bare bones kit, and you are inevitably going to put your intake manifold into low earth orbit.

Kurt