Supercharger setup questions

Dagz

New Member
Dec 2, 2005
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Quesnel Canada
Ok, I searched and never found exactly what i was looking for so here it is. I have a fox short block with forged stock pistons. the block have never been decked, .40 head gaskets, edelbrock aluminum heads 170cc, edelbrock upper and lower/intake and elbow, 75mm throttle body, stock rails with 30lbers, and a matching maf, fmu for the same, crane cam (don't have specs handy right now) with 1.7 rr's, long tubes, off road x pipe and cat back, adjustable reg. Msd btm, vortech v1 s trim with a 3.33 pulley and an anderson power pipe. might be forgetting some things here but if you need more ask.

So her are some of my questions. I have a 255 lph in tank pump. do you think I need the t rex?

What fuel pressure should I run?

What base timing should i run? i know I am going to run the spout in I don't want to lock my timing out.

Also what should i run on the btm

OK i have a 6al box in the car now, ditch it or can I run them together?

keep in mind I am just trying to find a starting point till I get to the dyno shop. thanks for the help.
 
speaking from experience here:

On the BTM and 6AL: MSD has directions for proper wiring of this setup on their website. My car actually responded better without the ignition box, but that was just me. Make sure your plugs are gapped at like .028 or so to start, and use the one heat range cooler Autolite 24's I believe.

Set your timing at 10* and set the BTM on 1. See how that does and listen out for detonation, you have to pay really close attention to this because you can grenade your motor in short order if you don't hear it in time and react.

There are 2 different 255 lph fuel pumps. One is a high pressure and the other is a high volume. I know from experience the one you want to have is the high pressure. That being said, I think any 255 lph pump will be ok, however, with that AFM Power Pipe and the 3.33 pulley (exactly what I ran) you may see around 12-15 psi of boost. I had stock heads on mine, so you having better flowing heads might see less boost. Point being the higher your boost, the more fuel you'll need, so if you have a T rex at your disposal, by all mean install it! It'll be cheap insurance.

But if you know your in tank pump is of the high pressure variety, then it'll be just fine by itself.

Your injectors are really too small for this application, if you run them without a tune you'll probably have to locate a FMU and run the proper calibrated diaphram for it which you can get from Vortech. I tried to run an FMU and my stock injectors and it wasn't happening. I switched to 42's when I went to have it tuned and the difference was night and day!

If it were me doing this again, I would get the proper injectors and MAF, install them and go have it tuned from the start. Bandaid's don't work too well when it comes to boost! With a tune, you can eliminate the BTM all together because they can use load to retard timing as the boost increases. My guy did a terrific job tuning my car and I never had ONE instance of detonation!!
 
i had no problems running an FMU. yes everybody is different but i was running 24s and the FMU without problems.

as long as its the high pressure 255 your good, but like mark said, if you have the t-rex, use it. base timing 10*. autolite 24 plugs. I run .035 gap. i'd just use the 6al and let the tune take care of the timing again like mark said
 
right on guys thatnks so far.

The Mustang, i have an fmu cald. for the 30's and the maf is the same way. I have a set of 42's and another maf for them but need the new fmu disc. I was worried about driveability with them though as I have heard they can have issues.

With your tune are you running a hard chip or a similar set up to me. right now I am at the band aid approach. I am planning on buying a tweecer, but lets face it one step at a time. With the tweecer wide band and lap top to run it I'm looking at another $1000. I'll have one before the end of the year but I don't drive it much. I just want to get it on the road for a few spins around the block.

Anyone else have a suggestion for fuel pressure?

Thanks again
 
Once again thank you to everyone.

Prokiller, so just to clear it up I can run the 42's and a maf, without the fmu while only manipulating the variables I have with no chip? Is there any need for the btm here? Do you think it will run well?

Also I'll do some searching but the maf I have is a pro m blow through that I purchased for my fox twin turbo kit. Do I need to re pig tail this to make it work? or am I better off to get a new one all together?

thanks again
 
ok so I searched and found out that the pro-m will plug in no pig tail is requried. I will double check next time I go to the shop.

However is the maf going to agree with the 94/95 computer. I know our cars are picky and really rely on the maf. I understand a stock fox meter will absolutely not work, but with this blow through 80mm pro m work? it is cailb. for the 42's.

Thanks
 
the BTM isn't needed in my opinion if your going to get it tuned but if your limping the car for a while, i'd put in the BTM.

the Pro-m will work but don't know about the connector being the same.
 
If you're going to keep this combo for a while i'd say go get a dyno tune. You'd be in the 400-500$ area and have the expertise of the operator to get your car dialed in correctly. I'm not sure learning how to tune on a S/C'd car is wise. Things can go wrong really quick!

With N/A, you get some variables or tables wrong, you end up with poor drivability or pinging/backfiring. With boost, if your car does those things you run an extreme risk of blowing something up!

I used an SCT chip in my car tuned by a guy who knew SN95's really well. His first shot at the tune was spot on! Now, I'm all about learning to do things yourself and tuning is no different, but just not on a supercharged car. just my .02.

With your combo in your first post I'd say you'll be seeing about 12psi of boost and probably around 440-460 RWHP.
 
I was hoping for 400 to the wheels, and more is going to be bad a$$. How much is the hard where for a sct tune. I have heard and seen some things about tuning this way but really unsure. Also what is all needed to go this way

Thanks again, I am new to the supercharged applications. I have read alot but obviously not enough. I love :SNSign:. You guys and gals are great. Just nice to people that have been there, or tried it, or read more about it than me.

:hail2:
 
The only hardware involved in chipping a Mustang is the chip itself. The tuner will load a tune via his laptop or desktop computer setup then plugs the chip into the computer.

When mine was done getting tuned, we went for a drive and he hooked up his laptop to my computer and just kinda checked everything out while the car was being driven.

I bought my chip from someone on corral for 125.00 and then the tune was 200 bucks. So 325.00 wasn't bad at all and it was a really cool experience seeing my car on the dyno! (also terrifying at the same time!)
 
What you're looking for is an SCT 4 bank chip. someone might chime in as to the exact part number. Also, alot of tuners can tune with Diablo sport chips too, so what you need to do is call your local tuner and ask them what they use/tune with, some do both!
 
man you guys are awsome. 275 with a basic tune doesn't sound so bad. It would give me a good place to start. Also much cheaper than the tweecer route, and if I decided to go that way later on then I could always sell the sct.

Do you have the name of the shop and I wonder if they would be willing to ship to canada? That's the problem here is there is limited resourses in Canada to make stuff like this happen.

THANKS AGAIN!!
 
The name of my shop, and someone I really trust with SN95's is HP-Performance in Orange Park FL. Not sure if he'll ship to Canada, but if he burns your chip, I'll go up and ship it for you if need be.

Here's the dyno sheet with their number right on it for ya:

DCP_0033.webp