Whipe off what you can with a fine scotch brite pad and then saturate it with WD40 and it'll be fine. It you don't put it together soon then I would resaturate every few weeks. Assembly lube or thick oil for long term.
What color pad? I'm new and I've heard that the pads are too abrasive?Whipe off what you can with a fine scotch brite pad and then saturate it with WD40 and it'll be fine. It you don't put it together soon then I would resaturate every few weeks. Assembly lube or thick oil for long term.
I've tried the scotch bright maroon color pad but the spots didn't come out im worried now, should I get it honed again? I'll try the atf method later this day.tos is again right. but there is another procedure you can use, if you think that the scotch pads might cause problems.
take a lint free cloth soaked with ATF and wipe down the cylinder walls until the cloth comes out clean. you may need several cloths to achieve this. this has the added effect of not only cleaning out the machining debris, it will also put a protective coat of lubricant on the cylinder walls. if necessary you can also use brushes designed to be used in cleaning engine cylinder bores, summit has a line of such brushes.
So it'll be fine ? It won't cause any damage in the long run if I assemble it soon ?dont worry about that at all, lube the cylinder wall and assemble when you can.
I've tried the scotch bright maroon color pad but the spots didn't come out im worried now, should I get it honed again? I'll try the atf method later this day.
dont worry about that at all, lube the cylinder wall and assemble when you can.
Thank you! Feel way better now,just waiting on my valve train parts to arrive next week.the rust you see is minor at best, and usually caused by machining debris left over from the honing of the cylinders. do not hone the cylinders again. if you cant get the spots out, dont worry about them, they will be gone after you break in the engine anyway.
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