Suspension Confusion

65kcode · Jun 17, 2009

My Dad has a 66 K-code fastback, we bought the suspension parts from Opentracker (very nice stuff by the way).

When I pulled the upper control arms off I noticed that it had longer studs that someone had replaced in the past. They measured 3.250 inches and the parts from Opentracker was 2.750" long. 1/2" difference. Both sides are symetrical and were shimmed pretty close.

Contacted Opentracker about the difference, they said that the car must of been wrecked at some point. Been under this car many times, drives great, no unusual tire wear, etc. No signs of damage. Owned the car for 15+ years (when they were still cheap).

I have about 4 different suspensions between our 2 shops and they all are 2.750" long studs.

I put in the parts as sent thinking that the bolts were just overkill. I did the shelby drop with the template from Opentracker. The Ford Tech said that he can"t get anything closer than 3 degrees neg. camber and have the correct amount of threads covered with the nut. He said that I needed to put the longer studs back in and bring it back.

The upper control arm is really close to the tire on the inside with a 1/4" wheel spacer as it is. It has Mustang ralley 14" wheels with 185/70R14's. It has the factory disk brakes, that look just like the ones on my k code. My studs look to be the shorter stock ones.

I am so confused, I'm sure that I am missing valuable information, so let me have it!!

Has anybody seen or had this much difference in the stud length, or can explain why this car needs 1/2" long studs?

Sorry I started rambling on. Any information would be helpful!!

Kevin

coolblue65 · Jun 17, 2009

Could also be shock tower sag; I had a similar issue years back when I did the shelby drop, the best we were able to get initially was -2.75 camber, and we had just enough threads to get the control arm securely fastened. A few months later I attempted to install a Monte Carlo and it did not fit, we ended up having to spread the inner fenders a bit to get the bar in. By putting the bar in and spreading the fenders, we gained a ton of camber, i was able to go in and actually remove shims to get the alignment I wanted, and by removing the shims more of the threads of came through as well.

So do you have a Monte Carlo bar?

65kcode · Jun 17, 2009

I haven't looked under the hood since winter, I'll have to check tommorrow. I think that it does though.

Kevin

2+2GT · Jun 17, 2009

If you've already done the drop, you need to complete the cycle with a Monte Carlo bar and export brace. This improved stiffness will help you take advantage of your new geometry. These cars tend to sag inward with age, forcing it back to shape to install them will help with the alignment.

Typically, as in always, you'll need more spacers after the drop.

65kcode · Jun 17, 2009

2+2GT said:
If you've already done the drop, you need to complete the cycle with a Monte Carlo bar and export brace. This improved stiffness will help you take advantage of your new geometry. These cars tend to sag inward with age, forcing it back to shape to install them will help with the alignment.

Typically, as in always, you'll need more spacers after the drop.

He's got the export brace on it, just can't remember about the MC bar. Is it still possible to add shims with the stock UCA bolts, or do they need to be longer?

Kevin

2+2GT · Jun 17, 2009

65kcode said:
He's got the export brace on it, just can't remember about the MC bar. Is it still possible to add shims with the stock UCA bolts, or do they need to be longer?

Kevin

Really? A one piece export brace? I'll tell you what, I'll try to check the bolts on mine tomorrow. The arms were rebuilt years ago, but I should be able to guesstimate the thickness of shims, and counting the exposed threads is easy.

CraigMBA · Jun 17, 2009

All of these cars eventually tear the spotwelds loose on the shocktowers.

Mine was so bad, I had to pull my engine and temporarily add a portapower so I could spread the shocktowers back. I literally had a 3/8" gap on the passenger side. DS was closer to 1/8" but it still needed help.

bnickel · Jun 18, 2009

your dads car definitely has some issues with the shock towers sagging or John is correct in thinking that it has been wrecked at some point in it's life, it may have been repaired well enough that you can't see any damage, though. AFAIK all mustangs used the 2.75" studs on the control arm shafts, since these are 1/2" longer you definitely have some issues. more than likely you will need to spread the towers with a port-a-power to correct the sag and use a monte carlo bar to keep it from sagging further.

my car was pretty much the same way except i didn't need the longer studs since my car is a 69 and has the adjustable LCA's.

65kcode · Jun 18, 2009

Just an update...

The car does have a MC bar and the Exort brace. Called a friend of the family that owns a body shop to see if we could put it on his frame rack and he passed me onto a older guy here locally that does unibody work on these cars. He knew exactly what I was talking about. He said that if we bring it down he'll look at it and let us know what needs to done. More news later, stay tuned!!lol

Thanks for the input/ideas guys!! We'll make it right yet!!

Kevin

Suspension Confusion

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