Suspension Help/Suggestions Needed

[ssppiitt]

Hey guys I am going crazy over what I should do for my suspension on my 68 Mustang. There just are to many options and to many manufacturers. So I am going to tell you guys what it is I looking for as far as feel and performance and I would like if you guys could give me your suggestions.

What I am looking for is a suspension that will handle turns like my 2001 Saleen. I want it to stick in a turn and I don't want to worry about it slipping out from underneath me. The beast is creating 500 HP and 497 FT. lbs. of torque.

What I was thinking about is the grab a track front and rear system but I am not sure how good it really is. I do know for a fact though that I will be installed the TCP two piece subframe connectors. Other than that I am just overwhelmed.

So based on the information I have provided you guys what do you suggest. If I could afford it I would put all TCP stuff on the car but I would like to keep the price somewhat down. Not to say though that I am unwilling to pay a good price for an extremely good and highly important part.

Thanks for your help.

 

[jikelly]

There is a guy who runs his 67 stang at the track who posts on the forum. Hopefully he will respond to this post, but if you search the forum you should find some info about suspension upgrades.

 

[DukeGnarley]

i would go with the global west setup if i had the dough. i was thinking TCP, but rumor has it that they're out of business now. the grab a track system is basically a stock style setup with some better sway bars and bushings. I have the grab a track on my '66 coupe, and it works fine, but i'm not racing, and i sure don't have 500 hp. the only other option would be a mac strut system from fatman, but mac struts create positive camber in the turn (top of the wheel goes outward, which isn't good). IMO, the global west system is the way to go if you have the money.

 

[LanceMach]

It will be nearly impossible for you to get your vintage car to handle as well as a Saleen. Having said that, you can definitely make huge improvements and will have as much FUN as you do in your Saleen!

The TCP subframes are a great place to start, but you may have trouble getting them right now. Rumor has it that the company will be back, but you can't get in touch with them right now (although you may be able to place an order online - I wouldn't, though, until things improve). I have both kits on my car and it was a HUGE improvement.

TCP does make a coil-over setup for the front and is either developing or has recently released the rear coil-over setup. Again, though, it sounds as though no products have been delivered over the past several months.

Global West (GW)makes great components as well and, if I was starting out right now and had the money, that's where I'd be looking.

Here's what I'd recommend (again, assuming you have the money for it):

Subframes - get the best you can afford - the GW tubular subframe connectors are really good. They don't offer the "X" cage like TCP, but you could have something built.

GW tubular upper and lower arms (and do the upper a-arm relocation - aka the Shelby Drop, but it's slightly different with the GW arms). I have some beefed up arms from Maier Racing, but the tubular units are pretty competitive, price wise.

Lose the stock strut rods (GW makes them - mine are from Street or Track - a big improvement over stock).

Roller spring perches (another big improvment over stock).

620 Springs (custom-cut them to lower the car)

Bump Steer kit (I went with the Baer kit).

Koni Shocks (another area not to skimp on)

1 inch front sway bar (or 1 1/8)

Stiffen up the shock towers either with Monte Carlo bar and Export Brace or the TCP setup (Street or Track makes a nice quick release bar that has been track-tested).

You can put a rear sway bar on for the street - I didn't like it on the track, so I removed it.

Polyurethane bushings everywhere (except the strut rods - not an issue if you go with some of the aftermarket strut rods).

I'd also do the rear (either 4 1/2 or 5 leaf springs, Koni shocks, poly bushings).

Go with 17 inch tires and rims. Tires will make a huge difference: get some sticky summer tires if you don't plan on driving in the rain (all weather tires just don't grip like summer tires).

To answer your specific question, the Grab-A-Trak setup is used on a lot of cars (including Mustangs Plus' track cars). I'd say it's pretty good quality and a pretty good value for someone who doesn't want to go too far. I would recommend beefier control arms (i.e., GW) and better shocks than they put in their kit.

Bottom line is that you could get the Grab-A-Trak kit, put it on the car and have a blast. I have gone a little bit farther than that, but not to tubular control arms or coil-overs. Still, I can guarantee you that my smile is just as wide as anyone else's on the track (if you really want to drive, that's the ONLY place to do it - you can never have as much fun on the street, nor should you try!).

What did I miss?

HistoricMustang - what say you?

 

[dodgestang]

It will be nearly impossible for you to get your vintage car to handle as well as a Saleen. Having said that, you can definitely make huge improvements and will have as much FUN as you do in your Saleen! etc...

I agree with everything you said...wow.

Anyway....I have the complete grab a track setup on my 65.

Upper, lower, front 1 1/8 bar, rear 3/4 bar, 5 leaf mid eye, shelby drop, 620 drop, KYB gas adjust. I added some additional non-grab a track upgrades like roller spring perches, streetortrack adjustable strutrods. I run 17 inch rims with 235s and 255s. I manage to keep up with 350z agreesively driven on exit ramps so I am happy with the setup. The car set up this way has more pontential than I, as the driver, have the skills to take advantage of and it will be some time before I have increased my personal skill level to be able to realistically out drive the suspension/handling to a point where I could personally benefit from a better setup. And I run a 500+ horsepower stroker cleveland.

 

[BAD67FUN]

Yup... I have pretty much done what these guys have listed also. Altough I did not spring for the expensive upper and lower arms.

A couple of things to add though (that I'd like to add also): steering is huge. So much of how the car's "feel" is through that steering wheel. Whatever you can do to increase the responsiveness and accuracy is a huge bonus. A big difference between modern cars and classic.

When figuring out your package... like some people believe in more is better for cubes (not everyone agrees)... the larger the tire contact patch the better. There's NO dispute. So figure in as much as you can for your tire and wheel choices.

And lastly.... brakes.

Gotta have them. And can't have too much brake.


Good luck.

 

[BobV]

I'm pretty much going to agree with Lancemach on this one. Here's my personal suspension tech page that basically covers most of the same stuff.

Suspensions are like engines in that "speed costs money - how fast do you want to go?". For a 500hp street car, you can't skimp, or you'll sacrifice street manners. Super stiff springs (to mask bad geometry) may be great on the track, but they suck on the street.

Yes, you can "have fun" without spending tons of $$$, but you've set a pretty lofty goal for your car. After all, you could've kept the 2v carb, and "had fun" with only 450hp. But, you didn't saddle that motor with a 2v carb, did you? So, don't saddle the car by only looking at what's "cheap" for the suspension package. Evaluate each part for what it can do, not what it costs, and then make your choices.

 

[ssppiitt]

THANKS! You guys are great.

As for brakes I will have disc's front and back. As for the carb it is the Edelbrock Performer RPM 750 cfm.

 

[65and68Stang]

My '68 fastback has the Mustangs Plus Grab-A-Trak setup and it is great. Very good ride, that handles well but doesn't vibrate your fillings loose. Mine has the 620 1" drop coils up front (Shelby drop too) and the 4 1/2 leafs on back. I am very satisfied with the way it handles.

For steering, I've got a new Flaming River steering box, but I also have the power-assist steering (which is a bit squirelly).

Also, I've got the TCP subframes.

C'ya!

Kelton

 

[ssppiitt]

Confirmed. TCP is going down. Damn that sucks. Just when I was going to buy the sub frames too. Anyone know where I can some?

 

[DarkBuddha]

Go with Global West instead... equal excellent quality and mine fit great.

 

[ssppiitt]

I probably will but their website is down right now.

 

[WORTH]

Confirmed. TCP is going down. Damn that sucks. Just when I was going to buy the sub frames too. Anyone know where I can some?

You can make your own subframe connectors pretty easily and for short $. Isn't brain surgery.

I used 1 1/2 thick wall square tubing for mine on the 70 ragtop and it's the first vert I've ever had that felt like a hardtop.