suspension mods
- Thread starter seanm
- Start date
seanm said:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=383207&highlight=wrong+springs
Its an older thread might give you some ideas
plus you can lower the rear with blocks
seanm said:
****************************************
Showing threads ....................ascending order, from the last day
(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((
change the line from last day -> to last 45 days or longer depending on how far you wanna go back it need to have the name in the title work the best..
Good luck z
This is what I did to mine,
Ford Gernada front brakes and 1/2 spacers on rear axle....wider track
Rear sway bar from Mustangs Unlimited
4 KYB shocks from PST
17" x 8" 98 cobra wheels
245/45 17 tires
subframe sonnectors
Battery moved to trunck
You would now believe the difference. Next I want to go to polygraphite bushings and a bigger sway bar on the front.
Ford Gernada front brakes and 1/2 spacers on rear axle....wider track
Rear sway bar from Mustangs Unlimited
4 KYB shocks from PST
17" x 8" 98 cobra wheels
245/45 17 tires
subframe sonnectors
Battery moved to trunck
You would now believe the difference. Next I want to go to polygraphite bushings and a bigger sway bar on the front.
jim6577 said:
Thanks, Just ordered front and rear springs and sway bars from Racer Walsh, found out both rear main leafs were broke anyway!
Have the Granada rotors for the front. What calipers and whose adapter bracket are you using?
How well do the 17x8's fit? Did you do any mods to fit them?
seanm said:
This brings a chuckle.
How many times have I written you never, never ever remove the u-bolts from an old(er) or abused set of springs without having another set handy? Or at least enough loose leaves laying around to stick back in to keep the ass end off the ground until you can get a new set.
Until I went to a solid perch I always assumed the springs would be broken.
Wart. Good advice to be sure, lucky I don't drive this car yet. Doesn't have engine or tranny in it yet! Long way to go type project.
1badII. Doe PST have bushing for the II's. Thought they only did Chevy and Mopar. Do the urethane and polygraphite bushings really make a big difference? Took front end apart also and amazingly the rubber bushings seem to be in good shape. Hate to go through changing them for a small improvement. Did get good bushings and end links for sway bars though.(easy to change!)
1badII. Doe PST have bushing for the II's. Thought they only did Chevy and Mopar. Do the urethane and polygraphite bushings really make a big difference? Took front end apart also and amazingly the rubber bushings seem to be in good shape. Hate to go through changing them for a small improvement. Did get good bushings and end links for sway bars though.(easy to change!)
Yes, they make bushing kits for Fords, including the Mustang II. I just rebuilt my front suspension with PST bushings, springs, and shocks. I don't have the front sway bar on right now (I plan on getting the bigger PST bar later) because I busted one of the end link bushings prying it loose, but after I replaced everything, it handles better without the sway bar than it did before with the sway bar.seanm said:
Turbo II
Founding Member
Wart said:
Exactly why my car has been on stands for the better part of two years now! Curse myself everytime I could have used the garage for working on my daily driver. 
Seanm,
The brakets came from a company I found in a Rod and Custum mag. They use full size GM calipers. Stainless Steel corp now has a 4 piston allumium direct replacement for these. When the budget allowes I gotta have um. As for the 17 x 8 weals, well The upper A arms needed quite a bit if grinding. I just mounted to weal and kept grinding till I had clearence then removed the arms and had a welder box them with 1/2 in steel. In the back I had a set of custum 1/2 spacers made buy a local machine shop.
The brakets came from a company I found in a Rod and Custum mag. They use full size GM calipers. Stainless Steel corp now has a 4 piston allumium direct replacement for these. When the budget allowes I gotta have um. As for the 17 x 8 weals, well The upper A arms needed quite a bit if grinding. I just mounted to weal and kept grinding till I had clearence then removed the arms and had a welder box them with 1/2 in steel. In the back I had a set of custum 1/2 spacers made buy a local machine shop.
jim6577 said:
Thanks. Sounds like a doable job by me. When you say full size GM you mean caprice type or regal/ monte carlo type brakes? Will look into the 4 piston calipers also. The brackets are how thick do you think? The ones I found are all for the regal (called metric?)style front brakes so I might make my own.
hello look at street rod magazines to find all thing mustang 11 front end parts and 5 lug disk brakes. 5 lug 9" disk, 11" disk, 12" disks Impalla calipers or 84-90 corvette c4 PBR c alipers. 2" droped spindles and coilover springs and shocks.
5speed tranny can be used with a extended pilot bearing and the drive shaft shortened 1 inch. a ministock roolcage to protect your head.
5speed tranny can be used with a extended pilot bearing and the drive shaft shortened 1 inch. a ministock roolcage to protect your head.
Ok I don't know how much yuh know seanm but there are a few things that you may not know that may not have been mentioned. #1 is that when removing and installing your new rear sway bar, DO NOT ruin the end links attatched to the bracket coming off the body of the car. You cannot buy these anymore unless you get them used from a parts car. Do not try to remove the bracket, as it WILL ruin the bushings on the end link.
As for the Leaf Springs. Most Leaf Springs do not come with the bushing that attatches to the Shackles. I have not bought them but do see them available in JC Whitney's magazine (800-529-4486) part# 15UL0054P each. They come with the bushings. Or you can custom make your own lowering shackles. (see attatchment)
You can also get the bushings for the Shackles and the pads for between the Rear End plate (2 per side) at a place by me near Chicago at a place called Spring Align (847-934-1525).
Yes PST is the way to go as far as a front end rebuild kit and the polygraphite bushings. They carry leaf springs, KYB shocks, front springs, sway bars, most all bushings, ball joints, pitman arms, and all the hardwear needed to put it all together. They have completely everything you need except what I have listed at the top to make your ll ride like new and with performance handleing.
If you want it lowered yes Racer Walsh is probably the way to go for there 1" lowring blocks at I believe $48 pair and the springs at $55 each.
I would advise going with a heavier duty 1/2 inch U bolt for the Rear End plate for extra strength if you really plan beat on it while takin some mean corners. Just drill out the current holes in the plate and brackets, squeeze the U bolt with a large pair of channel locks while knocking down on the top of the U bolt with a hammer and it will slide right in.
I wish I new how to make the pics I take with my digital camera smaller when I put them onto my puter. For some reason they are to big to upload or send to anyone. I need to figure it out. If you have anymore questions just ask.
As for the Leaf Springs. Most Leaf Springs do not come with the bushing that attatches to the Shackles. I have not bought them but do see them available in JC Whitney's magazine (800-529-4486) part# 15UL0054P each. They come with the bushings. Or you can custom make your own lowering shackles. (see attatchment)
You can also get the bushings for the Shackles and the pads for between the Rear End plate (2 per side) at a place by me near Chicago at a place called Spring Align (847-934-1525).
Yes PST is the way to go as far as a front end rebuild kit and the polygraphite bushings. They carry leaf springs, KYB shocks, front springs, sway bars, most all bushings, ball joints, pitman arms, and all the hardwear needed to put it all together. They have completely everything you need except what I have listed at the top to make your ll ride like new and with performance handleing.
If you want it lowered yes Racer Walsh is probably the way to go for there 1" lowring blocks at I believe $48 pair and the springs at $55 each.
I would advise going with a heavier duty 1/2 inch U bolt for the Rear End plate for extra strength if you really plan beat on it while takin some mean corners. Just drill out the current holes in the plate and brackets, squeeze the U bolt with a large pair of channel locks while knocking down on the top of the U bolt with a hammer and it will slide right in.
I wish I new how to make the pics I take with my digital camera smaller when I put them onto my puter. For some reason they are to big to upload or send to anyone. I need to figure it out. If you have anymore questions just ask.
Attachments
78CobraII
Moderator
Lots of good advice here!
On grinding the front A-arm...boxing them after grinding was a really good idea. Another solution would be to buy the tubular A-arms available from many StreetRod suppliers. Most have more clearance than the factory A-arms. Just make sure that you buy uppers compatible with the factory suspension crossmember and lowers to match the type of spring and shock you plan to use. Heidts even offers a tubular replacement for the stock lower (for use with the factory strut rod and springs).
I recently ran across a company that offers adjustable uppers. So your alignment is set by adjusting the upper itself rather than adding spacers between the upper and the frame. Sorry I don't have the link handy, but I'll find if anyone is interested.
78CobraII
On grinding the front A-arm...boxing them after grinding was a really good idea. Another solution would be to buy the tubular A-arms available from many StreetRod suppliers. Most have more clearance than the factory A-arms. Just make sure that you buy uppers compatible with the factory suspension crossmember and lowers to match the type of spring and shock you plan to use. Heidts even offers a tubular replacement for the stock lower (for use with the factory strut rod and springs).
I recently ran across a company that offers adjustable uppers. So your alignment is set by adjusting the upper itself rather than adding spacers between the upper and the frame. Sorry I don't have the link handy, but I'll find if anyone is interested.
78CobraII
jeffnoel
Founding Member
Dick Ginther over on II.net has 17s on his Cobra and instead of grinding the a-arm he installed travel limiters on the rack unit.
http://www.mustangii.net/images/visitors/ginther2.jpg
http://www.mustangii.net/images/visitors/ginther2.jpg
Similar threads
