Suspension Q's for you.

Stojo22 · Jun 19, 2006

First off let me start by saying I've already used the search button but didn't fiind the answers I was looking for. The question I have for you all is regarding suspension components. I'm looking to lower the stang but I'm torn on which springs/shocks/c/c plates to get. The decision so far is h&r sport springs, (mach 1 shock/struts OR tokico hp), and mm c/c plates. I know this is a pretty decent setup but my concern is will the drop be to much in the front? h&r claims a drop of approx. 1.75in in the front now I know that c/c plates are necessary for a drop of more than 1.5 but will I need different ball joints or a bumpsteer kit? Another option for me would be the steeda sport springs which claims a drop of 1.25 all around but my concern with these are that I'm getting 17x9 and 17x10.5 wheels and dont want the stance to be to high with these wheels cause I think it may look to high in the back. Dont know for sure cause I haven't found any pics of the rear of a car with steeda springs with d/d wheels. My next question is the shocks/struts, how do the mach 1 s/s and tokico hp differ in ride, valving, and overall drivability? Would I be fine with just the mach 1 s/s or should I put out the extra 100 for the hp's? Finally how would my suggested setup work with additional equip such as uca, lca, sway bars etc...? Does m/m make a front sway bar or would steeda front and rear sway bars work with h&r springs and what I mean by work is best fit and performance?
Thanks for any replies

tomustang · Jun 19, 2006

Stojo22 said:
First off let me start by saying I've already used the search button but didn't fiind the answers I was looking for. The question I have for you all is regarding suspension components. I'm looking to lower the stang but I'm torn on which springs/shocks/c/c plates to get. The decision so far is h&r sport springs, (mach 1 shock/struts OR tokico hp), and mm c/c plates. I know this is a pretty decent setup but my concern is will the drop be to much in the front? h&r claims a drop of approx. 1.75in in the front now I know that c/c plates are necessary for a drop of more than 1.5 but will I need different ball joints or a bumpsteer kit? Another option for me would be the steeda sport springs which claims a drop of 1.25 all around but my concern with these are that I'm getting 17x9 and 17x10.5 wheels and dont want the stance to be to high with these wheels cause I think it may look to high in the back. Dont know for sure cause I haven't found any pics of the rear of a car with steeda springs with d/d wheels. My next question is the shocks/struts, how do the mach 1 s/s and tokico hp differ in ride, valving, and overall drivability? Would I be fine with just the mach 1 s/s or should I put out the extra 100 for the hp's? Finally how would my suggested setup work with additional equip such as uca, lca, sway bars etc...? Does m/m make a front sway bar or would steeda front and rear sway bars work with h&r springs and what I mean by work is best fit and performance?
Thanks for any replies

This has been covered and can all be found in the Search feature.

Look here, decifer the pics and springs on the cars and pic what you like http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=605976 or you can go back to the search function and narrow your search

you don't need a front swaybar, the stock one works good enough, even for more of a serious suspension system. best chance is you won't ever get to the extreme of carving to even use a thicker replacement

No one knows what you have so I will break it down to the basics,

FRPP Handing Kit
MM LCA's
MM Full Length Subframe Connectors

that should keep you on your toes, if not you can add an MM PHB to the mix, do not swap out the UCA's since there's no cure keeping the 4-link design a 4-link

Torinalth · Jun 19, 2006

learn to paragraph. makes it hard to read all in one massive blob.

first off, why do you want to fool with the suspension? better handeling? better looks? both? the issue here is that if you want better handeling, its not going to look as good. want better looks, you are going to go too low to have the optimal geometry for the best handeling. want both? well, too bad, gotta sacrafice a lil of both. once that is established we can move on from there.

also a note, if for handeling, are you going to drag the car, or just a street car, auto-X, road courses? makes a big difference as to what you want in the car.

Torinalth

Stojo22 · Jun 19, 2006

sorry about the long paragraph wanted to write down all my thoughts at once....well currently I only have mm subframe connectors everything else is stock. Currently I both drag and autox so I'm looking for a happy medium in the suspension dept. Also the car isn't a daily driver either so a plush ride isnt important. Plus I would steer more towards handling than looks.

trailblazr81 · Jun 19, 2006

First, listen to "tomustang" about suspension stuff. Secondly read up about Mustang suspensions here http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension.htm

h&r springs and Steeda are good, stay away from Eibach Sportlines, there seems to be a problem with the rears sagging. Tho mine seem to still ne ok.

Stojo22 · Jun 19, 2006

so the h&r springs would be a good choice then? Thanks for the help fellas.

Torinalth · Jun 19, 2006

I am not a fan of thhe HR sport springs, i dont think they are stiff enough for the weight of the mustang... the lowering height is not bad though. the SS is too low in my opinion. i have the HR race springs, and like them alot, with poly isolators i only dropped 3/4 inch, but have the heavier spring rate to keep me balanced.

honestly, unless you are going with the full bullitt kit i'd ditch the ford dampeners and go for tokicos at the least. i have bilsteins and love em. since you already have subs next would be LCAs and panhard rod (after the springs, CC plates, and dampeners). you really need to plan out how far you want to go. i made some poor choices and am now fighting with removing some parts to move forward.

also, things like panhard rod, LCAs, and either a TA or trilink will also benefit you on the drag track as well as the autoX. the stiffer the springs, the flatter you CAN be in a turn, but also the worse the weight transfer for the car in a dig.

if you just want simple things to improve the ride then minimal things are fine, but if you want to go more of a track type car, or just flat out drastic changes then prepare to spend some money and plan it fully before you purchase.

Torinalth

tomustang · Jun 19, 2006

Stojo22 said:
so the h&r springs would be a good choice then? Thanks for the help fellas.

Yes

but since you said drops 1.75 i believe you are talking about the Supersport springs, not the Sports that drop 1.60

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