Suspension SetUp

Sub-Frame Connectors.
Mandatory.

If this is for a performance driving application, you want to make sure the car doesn't sit too low, the shocks & struts aren't too stiff, and the sway bars aren't too stiff. When choosing springs, linear rate springs are a better option than progressive springs, and poly spring isolators and spring spacers can help up front. I don't lower my autocross cars more than 1". A stiffer front sway bar is the last mod I make to my suspension setup. If the front end is too low, you'll run out of suspension travel; if the struts are too stiff, you'll understeer; if your front sway bar is too stiff, you'll understeer.

23Newb said:

Thanks Warhorse and Bullitt, i am installing the Stiffler subframe connectors tomorrow and if i have time will start the FIT system install. Really want to get the suspension and brakes set up before adding power.

War - found your videos recently and just starting to go through them. Having never run a Ford 2.3 I am intrigued by what can be done, and how it will compare to the 5.0 builds from the past. It isnt being built to race, so trying not to go overboard

Click to expand...

I'm a big fan of the FIT System. I've used it on my 2 SN95 Mustangs, and I'm very happy with the results.

I hope my videos are helpful. I made one about the Mustang SVO that you might want to watch. The SVO is a great template for building a fun, nimble 79-04 Mustang. I got to drive a stock SVO on the street and I was impressed by how it handled (even with old OEM suspension parts). It doesn't take many mods to make these cars handle much better than stock.

My 2.3L project is going to rely heavily on weight reduction & weight balance. When it's done, it's going to weigh about 2,500 lbs. My 1992 GT weighs about 3,000 lbs. The weight & power difference will make the 2.3L feel like a different car. But that's the point of the project. I want to show that there's more than one way to build a capable autocross Mustang.

I'm looking forward to seeing your project progress, and I'm happy to answer any questions or suggest parts that will improve your project without going overboard.

23Newb said:

Will take a look for the SVO video, they are the reason the car is staying 2.3. Glad to hear that the FIT system works well, coming back to the Mustang scene after so many years their name wasnt familiar to me - other than the movie of course.

What do you suggest for springs, have the stock 2.3 NA, the Turbo Coupe and the Ford Motorsport 5300 springs new in box or something completely different? Had thought about coilovers but dont see the need to adjust a street car so not really seeing the need

Click to expand...

I always try to give the most accurate information, so forgive me for the long reply...

In all transparency, I didn't know much about the 2.3L Mustangs when I started my 2.3L project. I had a lot of experience with V8 Fox and SN95 Mustangs and there was a lot of aftermarket support for V6 SN95 Mustangs when I built my "Mustang ST" a few years ago. While many suspension parts for 5.0 and 2.3L Mustangs are interchangeable, there are some key differences. This carries over into the aftermarket, which ignores the 2.3L when it comes to some parts. Aftermarket 2.3L-specific springs are rare. For this reason (and others), I plan on using coilovers on my 2.3L autocross car. But it's worth mentioning that I don't use coilovers on my other cars and they handle pretty well. I don't think you need to use coilovers for your build, but I do think you will have to do some experimenting.

I experimented with lowering springs when I installed my UPR K-member. I installed a pair of new 99/01 Cobra Eibach Pro-Kit front springs (progressive) that I had left over from a previous build. Later, I installed a set of Ford Performance M-5300-C rear springs. I've driven the car on the street with those springs installed and the ride feels pretty good (not too stiff, not too soft). The ride height (at the center of the fender lip) is 26.75" F and 28" rear. The rake isn't ideal, and I prefer my autocross cars to sit at about 27" all around. Keep in mind that this car's interior has been gutted during the build, so it's probably close to 2,500 lbs. There isn't a lot of weight over the rear end.

Ford Performance 5300 "C" (linear) and "B" (progressive) springs are listed for V8 cars. I've seen other forum posts where people have used them on 4-cylinder Fox Body Mustangs. If you have a set on hand, it might be worth trying them. But you'd have to be willing to do all that work again if they don't feel right on the car. Which version do you have?

I don't know enough about the Turbo Coupe spring rates to comment on whether or not they will work.

Eibach does make a set of progressive springs designed for 4-cylinder, Turbo and SVO Fox Body Mustangs. Part# 3518.140. They are progressive rate (better for a street car). They lower the front 1.2", so you might want to use poly spring isolators to raise them up a little for better handling. I've never personally used these springs, but the fact that they are 2.3L specific when others aren't makes me think they're a good option. Because these springs fit a wide variety of models, you might also want to have some Steeda spring spacers on hand.

I hope that info helps.

23Newb said:

Once again thanks the reply and information. The spring set i have are the 5300 C set, designed for the v8 but will try them out. Isnt a big deal to tear it apart and try different sets. Going to search out the Eibach 4cyl specific springs, like you this is my first mustang with the 2.3

I have a week before the LCA and spindles are done at the Powdercoater so hopefully everything is ready for install when i pick them up

Click to expand...

I'm always happy to help. Late Model Restoration has the 4-cylinder springs, just make sure to verify the part number because there are a few sets for 79-04 Mustangs. Please keep us posted on how the C springs feel on the car.