Suspension SetUp

23Newb said:

Thanks again. Going to just use the SN95 ball jointswith the Del-A-Lum bushings on the Turbo Coupe control arms.

Started a different thread working on a strut tower brace for the 2.3 and really disappointed with the lack of support for the 2.3 crowd, but am determined to modify one or build one myself. Was looking at the Stifflers site and was checking out their Spider Brace (awesome looking product but might be overkill in our application? although stiffening is never overkill lol) and started thinking to use heim joints like that where necessary for clearance.

So guess my question to War is are you planning on using one?

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I think you’ll be happy with that combination.

I’ve looked into the Stifflers Spider Brace in the past, but I didn’t think the added rigidity would be worth the added weight (especially for an autocross car). I do use the FIT System on my SN95 Mustangs, and I highly recommend it for an autocross car. For a street car with the suspension mods we’ve been discussing, the entire FIT System and Spider Brace would be overkill.

With the Stifflers stuff, you have the option of upgrading in stages to stiffen up the car. They sell the parts of the FIT System separately. I’d start with the full-length subframe connectors and lower chassis brace.

I’m not sure how helpful I can be with the strut tower brace because I’m still figuring out a solution, and I don’t have an intercooler on my 2.3L. I’m in the process of testing strut tower braces (in between other projects on the car), so this info is incomplete: It looks like the current strut tower braces from MM and Steeda would require modification to work. The main issue is that they hit the alternator. The MM strut tower brace also requires moving the vacuum tree on the firewall (and I didn’t find a good place to put it). I tested the 1990s Steeda strut tower brace that’s on my 1992 GT, and it looks like it will fit (I’m still not 100% sure). It will be tricky to find one of those, because I don’t know when or how often the design changed in the last 30 years.

With the intercooler, I suspect you will need a 2-point strut tower brace. But it might be a good idea to buy a 3-point brace and cut it to fit. That will leave you with some pieces to redesign the brace to fit your specific car.

23Newb said:

Yeah the stock intercooler is definitely in the way, and heard that the alternator is the other issue so will have to go with an FMIC and hopefully figure out how to move the alternator where the AC compressor used to be over the winter. Waiting till I get the FMIC from Stinger might be the best way to go before deciding to cut up a 3 point or build something.

Only reason i was thinking of using the FIT system is because it is a convertible and my stock X brace was pretty damaged. Appreciate the input on the spider brace system, better places to spend money!!

Cant wait to get her buttoned up over the cold months and then get it back on the road.

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If the intercooler won't be in the way, then I might be able to get you some more detailed information about what needs to be done to the current Steeda strut tower brace to clear the engine. It might take some time (my plan is to tackle it during the off-season). Looking at my notes, it appears that the current Steeda strut tower brace could be scalloped or notched to clear the alternator. The tubing is thick enough to make that mod.

If you have a convertible, you need to make sure the Stifflers lower chassis brace will work with the OEM X-brace. If not, you should check with Stifflers to see if they recommend removing the OEM X-brace and using their LCB without the FIT System. I was told I needed the FIT System in order to run the LCB and remove the OEM X-brace on my 2000 GT convertible. I'm not sure how easy it will be to find a replacement OEM X-brace, so the FIT System/LCB might actually be an easier option. And it would be much better.

I'm looking forward to seeing some photos of the progress.