I have a 87 mustang gt and i am trying to get the sve aluminum radiator in and it goes in and sits on the two isolaters and then i try and mount it to the top radiator brackets and it moves like half inch back in forth up top and is not secure. I am also getting rid of stock fan shroud for my electric fans i ordered as well. The old radiator i believe is a oem style fit fine.
Engine Sve Aluminum Radiator Not Fitting
- Thread starter Southport2014
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Did you buy new isolators for the top?
One common thing I've seen people do is cut the rubber off the mounts that allow the radiator to slide a little forwards and backwards. I only did it to one mount on the passenger side, but left the driver intact. I don't know if this is the case for you? The rubber isolator on top when its new should wrap all the way around the mount on top of the radiator. Left side, right side, front, back and tops. It fully wraps around, if I'm making sense?
The reason some people cut the rubber out to allow a little movement in the radiator is if you make a lot of horsepower, when you launch off the line the front picks up and twists a little from the torque of the motor. If the radiator is mounted super tight it tends to flex the radiator until it fails.
One common thing I've seen people do is cut the rubber off the mounts that allow the radiator to slide a little forwards and backwards. I only did it to one mount on the passenger side, but left the driver intact. I don't know if this is the case for you? The rubber isolator on top when its new should wrap all the way around the mount on top of the radiator. Left side, right side, front, back and tops. It fully wraps around, if I'm making sense?
The reason some people cut the rubber out to allow a little movement in the radiator is if you make a lot of horsepower, when you launch off the line the front picks up and twists a little from the torque of the motor. If the radiator is mounted super tight it tends to flex the radiator until it fails.
I just bought an SVE rad and having a heck of a time getting it to install correctly. Seems the radiator sits too low (on the driver's side) and the radiator cap is rubbing against the wiring harness that loops around it. My rubber bushings are present and in good shape. I even cut up and old bicycle inner tube to create some much need "lift" from the driver's side but that still was not enough. Does this sound even remotely possible? I am also finding the radiator neck makes it very difficult to install either my old or the supplied new radiator cap. It's as if the OD of the groove is too thick for the cap to slide easily as you twist it to the closed position.
I've had a summit 3 row for 3 or 4 years now with no issues and the fitment had no problems either.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Thanks all for the replies!
Mike, when you say it sits at stock height, does that apply to the filler neck as well?
I'm going to measure the height of the fill neck to the lowest point of the radiators I have so I can start quantifying the results.
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mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
does this help. you can see the cap is right at the same height as the upper rad support and the radiator hold downs cover the tabs on the radiator.
Wow, your engine bay is pristine!
Those pics do help me out. Looking at the first pick this is where my concern and issue was. The wiring harness that comes around the end tank basically hugs the radiator cap and makes opening it very difficult. Obviously the picture I had posted earlier shows a significant height difference in this area between my old radiator and the SVE unit.
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Those pics do help me out. Looking at the first pick this is where my concern and issue was. The wiring harness that comes around the end tank basically hugs the radiator cap and makes opening it very difficult. Obviously the picture I had posted earlier shows a significant height difference in this area between my old radiator and the SVE unit.
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mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
thanks for the complement.
I re routed all of those wires through the driver headlight opening and inside the driver inner fenderwell. you can simply unplug most of them and reroute them through the driver headlight opening and then back into the engine compartment. Just label them if needed.
I re routed all of those wires through the driver headlight opening and inside the driver inner fenderwell. you can simply unplug most of them and reroute them through the driver headlight opening and then back into the engine compartment. Just label them if needed.
Here's a screen shot of a video I took a while back. It's kind of hard to tell and I have the cap on backwards but I think you get the idea of where it sits. I can take a picture this afternoon if you'd like.
Your cap seems to sit higher than Mike's?Here's a screen shot of a video I took a while back. It's kind of hard to tell and I have the cap on backwards but I think you get the idea of where it sits. I can take a picture this afternoon if you'd like.
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mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Champion 2 core dimensions
Core Size: 18" tall x 24.5" wide; Total Size: 19.25" tall (with cap) x 29.25" wide; EC138; Ford Mustang All Aluminum Radiator
Core Size: 18" tall x 24.5" wide; Total Size: 19.25" tall (with cap) x 29.25" wide; EC138; Ford Mustang All Aluminum Radiator
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