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swap 289 for 302 in 66 mustang automatic

  • Thread starter Thread starter d58225
  • Start date Start date Jul 3, 2011
D

d58225

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Jul 3, 2011
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Jul 3, 2011
#1
  • Jul 3, 2011
  • #1
I need some help. I'm not sure how to swap a 289 engine for a 302 engine that is currently in my 1966 mustang with automatic transmission. I am concerned with damaging the transmission (torque converter). I was told to remove the starter then by turning the flywheel, remove the 4 bolts located on the flywheel before removing the engine. Also I was cautioned to take care when replacing the engine so that the torque converter is in place or the converter and pump could be damaged? Are there any hints, suggestions, that could help me?
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
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Southeastern Pennsylvania
Jul 3, 2011
#2
  • Jul 3, 2011
  • #2
Very good advice. If the torque converter is not fully seated on the internal spline shafts, you can damage the transmission.
 

Realmongo

I prefer to be called "Evil Genius"
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#3
  • Jul 3, 2011
  • #3
Is this an earler 302 or is this a 5.0 version with the 1-piece rear seal? You have to address the proper weight on the flexplate and balancer. There is also a difference in 3 blt vs 4 bolt front pulleys/balancers.
 
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d58225

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Jul 13, 2011
#4
  • Jul 13, 2011
  • #4
reinstalling the 289 engine

I am having trouble installing the 289 engine. I cannot get the flywheel to line up with the converter in order to complete the engine swap. Is there any advise in doing this? Please Help. Are the flywheels in the 302 and 289 the same? Thank you.
 
R

Rmoore45

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Jun 5, 2011
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Jul 13, 2011
#5
  • Jul 13, 2011
  • #5
You could get some long bolts that go from the bellhousing to the engine and use them as line up pins. Its a trick my dad used to replace a flexplate on an engine, so it might help.
 

coolblue65

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Jul 26, 1999
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Jul 13, 2011
#6
  • Jul 13, 2011
  • #6
If you are having that hard of a time, you might be better off to just pull the trans, bolt it up to the engine outside the car, then drop them in as one unit.
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
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#7
  • Jul 13, 2011
  • #7
Rmoore45 said:
You could get some long bolts that go from the bellhousing to the engine and use them as line up pins. Its a trick my dad used to replace a flexplate on an engine, so it might help.
Click to expand...

I have a couple of bolts with the heads cut off and a screwdriver slot cut in the tip for that.
 
D

d58225

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Jul 14, 2011
#8
  • Jul 14, 2011
  • #8
Different flywheels?

I tried the longer bolt trick to line up the transmission and engine and it worked great. Thank you. However, the stubs on the torque converter and the holes for them to go through on the flywheel still don't line up? Should I have swapped the flywheel off the 302 that I pulled out with the flywheel on the 289 that I am trying to put in? The flywheel on the 302 that I pulled worked on the C4 transmission that is in the car. I didn't know that there might be a difference so I did not check/compare the two flywheels before the swap.
 
D

d58225

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#9
  • Jul 14, 2011
  • #9
flywheel on 289 vs 302

I pulled the 289 and compared the flywheels (289/302) they were different. The bolt pattern was the same on the flywheels (flywheel to crank) so I swapped the flywheels, re-installed the 289, using the recommended longer bolt installation trick (to align engine to transmission). The flywheel and the torque converter lined up and I completed installation of the 289 to the C4 transmission.
 
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d58225

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#10
  • Jul 14, 2011
  • #10
flywheel on 302 vs 289 C4 transmission

I thought I already posted this but I did not see it. I compared the flywheel on the 302 vs the 289 (both had C4 transmissions) and they WERE different. I swapped the flywheels since the bolt patterns matched. I reinstalled the 289 and the flywheel matched the correct pattern for the torque converters bolts.
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
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Jul 15, 2011
#11
  • Jul 15, 2011
  • #11
The converter hole pattern should have been the same either way. However, there were 157T wheels and 164T wheels, and likely that's what you were dealing with. The older pre-80's 302 had the same imbalance as the 289, so you should be fine.
 

PoppyMod

Member
Jun 27, 2010
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Severna Park, MD
Jul 15, 2011
#12
  • Jul 15, 2011
  • #12
d58225 said:
I am having trouble installing the 289 engine. I cannot get the flywheel to line up with the converter in order to complete the engine swap. Is there any advise in doing this? Please Help. Are the flywheels in the 302 and 289 the same? Thank you.
Click to expand...

Hi,

I'll offer this....
I've used a small jack w/block beneath the engine pan to both support the engine and micro adjust it's relationship to the tranny bell. Many times, the engine needs just a hair movement one way or another to allow them to mate. The previous comment about the alignment bolts is a good too.
It'll go, just take your time. Did you insure the converter is wholly on it's second step of the output shaft?
Good Luck!
 
D

d58225

New Member
Jul 3, 2011
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Jul 18, 2011
#13
  • Jul 18, 2011
  • #13
transmission dip stick leaking transmission fluid.

I got the engine in and put everything back on it. It runs fine! Thank you everyone for all your help. However, the transmission dip stick is leaking transmission fluid. The dip stick is not the push-in kind. There is a 3/4 inch bolt on the side of the transmission pan where the tube enters the transmission. I tried to loosen the bolt but it is very tight and I don't want to shear it off the transmission pan. The dip stick tube seems to be cracked. Where can I get a new dip stick tube? What is the best way to loosen the nut?
 

PoppyMod

Member
Jun 27, 2010
617
6
19
Severna Park, MD
Jul 18, 2011
#14
  • Jul 18, 2011
  • #14
d58225 said:
I got the engine in and put everything back on it. It runs fine! Thank you everyone for all your help. However, the transmission dip stick is leaking transmission fluid. The dip stick is not the push-in kind. There is a 3/4 inch bolt on the side of the transmission pan where the tube enters the transmission. I tried to loosen the bolt but it is very tight and I don't want to shear it off the transmission pan. The dip stick tube seems to be cracked. Where can I get a new dip stick tube? What is the best way to loosen the nut?
Click to expand...

Hi,
The bolt issue is iffy. You're dealing with a steel bolt in an aluminum housing. As you may know, these two metals don't play nice. You might get lucky once the transmission has heated and the case starts to expand a bit. Retry using little more torque.
In the mean time, if can gain access to the crack, clean the area really well and apply JB weld to the area. The cleaner you can get the area, the greater your success. If at some point you can get the tube out, brazing the wound should fix it for good.
Good Luck!
 
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