The only thing pointless was your post. A 97 Cobra is a completely different car. No swaybar makes a big difference in a fox. I noticed the front end rise a lot faster and higher even with my stock motor and street tires, which aids in weight transfer and made it hook up better. The sway bar is very heavy too, and you're taking weight from the most important part of the car.97 Cobra....pointless....
I just cant see it being worth it to remove it. Like someone said...mustangs already handle like chit...WHY would you want to make it any worse? Especially for the extra .05 in your short time. WOW 1 tenth in the quarter.
Just unbolt it when you get to the track. seems stupid to take it off.
Yeah, the gain is next to nothing in my opinion.
"Run what you brung"
I always liked to pride myself in driving straight to the track and get in line and run. I never would remove this or tweak that
It is what makes it a true daily driver/street car in my opinion.
Don't remove suspension, just upgrade it.
The only thing pointless was your post. A 97 Cobra is a completely different car. No swaybar makes a big difference in a fox. I noticed the front end rise a lot faster and higher even with my stock motor and street tires, which aids in weight transfer and made it hook up better. The sway bar is very heavy too, and you're taking weight from the most important part of the car.
Not everyone is interested in just handling. Obviously if that's your interest leave your swaybar on. How did you calculate that it would take .05 off your 60ft? Even if that's all it takes off, that's a lot, and every little bit counts.
So driving your car to the track without a sway bar isn't running what you brought? Believe it or not, I could make it to the track alive without my sway bar and pull right into the staging lanes next to you. No removing anything at the track. Then you'll get left at the starting line cause you had to be a road racer on the way to the drag strip.
The only thing pointless was your post. A 97 Cobra is a completely different car. No swaybar makes a big difference in a fox. I noticed the front end rise a lot faster and higher even with my stock motor and street tires, which aids in weight transfer and made it hook up better. The sway bar is very heavy too, and you're taking weight from the most important part of the car.
Not everyone is interested in just handling. Obviously if that's your interest leave your swaybar on. How did you calculate that it would take .05 off your 60ft? Even if that's all it takes off, that's a lot, and every little bit counts.
You really think .05 of your short time is a lot? Dude i want what you are smokin! Who cares about .05 off your 60' time when it compromises the safety of your car. I dont care who you are or how good of a driver you think you are. If something random/unexpected were to happen on the way to or from the track, or even on just the streets for that matter, and you needed to make some evasive maneuvers...i would hate to be that poor bastard that lost control of his car, or wrecked, or even worse hurt someone else just b/c they wanted to cut .05 off their short time. WOW! just doesnt seem worth it to me. I think you are just off base bro.
So driving your car to the track without a sway bar isn't running what you brought? Believe it or not, I could make it to the track alive without my sway bar and pull right into the staging lanes next to you. No removing anything at the track. Then you'll get left at the starting line cause you had to be a road racer on the way to the drag strip.
I too think he should remove the sway bar just to see how it works for him butHoly **** people, it's not that bad. He's running a drag setup, just take the thing off. Maybe I just don't corner hard enough to notice a huge difference. You guys shouldn't be road racing on the street anyway. I barely notice it in daily driving, and it's just a little body roll, it's not gonna kill you. It's not like the car flips over anytime you're not going straight.
.05 IS alot off of a 60 for just removing the sway bar. That will equal out to quite abit on the other side. How the hell is removing the sway bar "compromising the safety of your car". Do you guys even know what a sway bar is or does? If you need to turn....you turn the wheel and it goes. It was already stated before that there was some body roll. ANYWAYS woody's car has big and littles it will make NO difference at all and with that setup...guess what! he is planning on driving in a straight line! If anything having 3.5" wheels up front is more dangerous then removing the sway bar. I wish there was someone with a stupid fast street car that would chime in and say their 1000 rwhp street car without a sway bar drives perfectly fine. Anyways, Iam not trying to pick a fight its just clear that the people that have removed the sway bar and didnt like how it drove want to take corners also which is fine. The ones who removed it and didnt care/notice anything clearly want to go straight plain and simple.
A sway bar, or also commonly known as a ANTI-SWAY bar, gets it's name for obvious reasons.
The loss of a little weight off the front is where some of the time loss comes from. It is not from just loosening up the suspension.
I have gained .1-.2 at times during a launch on the same night. So I take .05 (the equivalent of "5 hp") at a pretty insignificant gain.
For the track, sure go for it. I would not do it where I live
Since you believe that many do not know what a sway bar is, I will clear that up with a little quote from wiki.
A sway bar (also stabilizer bar, anti-sway bar, roll bar, or anti-roll bar, ARB) is an automobile suspension device. It connects opposite (left/right) wheels together through short lever arms linked by a torsion spring. A sway bar increases the suspension's roll stiffness -- its resistance to roll in turns, independent of its spring rate in the vertical direction.
In a turn, the sprung mass of the vehicle's body rotates around its roll axis. The roll axis is a line that joins the front and rear roll centers (SAEJ670e). If the vertical distance between the roll axis and the center of gravity is not zero, a torque (roll moment) equal to the centrifugal force times the distance between the center of gravity and the roll axis will be exerted on the sprung mass, causing the body to lean towards the outside of the turn. This force is called the roll couple. One effect of body (frame) lean, for typical suspension geometry, is positive camber of the wheels on the outside of the turn and negative on the inside, which reduces their cornering grip (especially with cross ply tires).
Roll couple is resisted by the suspension roll stiffness, which is a function of the spring rate of the vehicle's springs and of the anti-roll bars, if any. The use of anti-roll bars allows designers to reduce body lean without making the suspension's springs stiffer in the vertical plane, which allows improved body control with less compromise of ride quality.
The spring rate of an anti-roll bar is based on the fourth power of the torsion bar's diameter, the stiffness of the material, the inverse of the length of the lever arms (i.e., the shorter the lever arm, the stiffer the bar), the geometry of the mounting points, and the rigidity of the bar's mounting points. Some anti-roll bars, particularly those intended for use in auto racing, are adjustable, allowing their stiffness to be altered by increasing or reducing the length of the lever arms. This permits the roll stiffness to be tuned for different situations without replacing the entire bar.
Anti roll bars provide 2 main functions:
The first is the reduction of body lean. The reduction of body lean is dependent on the total roll stiffness of the vehicle. Increasing the total roll stiffness of a vehicle does not change the steady state total load (weight) transfer from the inside wheels to the outside wheels, it only reduces body lean. The total lateral load transfer is determined by the CG height and track width.
The other function of anti roll bars is to tune the high g / limit understeer behavior of the vehicle. The limit understeer behavior is tuned by changing the proportion of the total roll stiffness that comes from the front and rear axles. Increasing the proportion of roll stiffness at the front will increase the proportion of the total weight transfer that the front axle reacts and decrease the proportion that the rear axle reacts. This will cause the outer front wheel to run at a higher slip angle, and the outer rear wheel to run at a lower slip angle, which is an understeer effect. Increasing the proportion of roll stiffness at the rear axle will have the opposite effect and decrease understeer.
One thing also, is that a driver is going to notice the sway bar delete much more if they take many curves or mergers.
If you do just a lot of highway and/or interstate driving, you are not going to notice it so much.
So adding skinnys to the front, slicks to the rear, all the other drag suspension, people running no power steering, manual drum brakes, all that is ok.
Pulling the sway bar off which is a MINIMAL difference, is the deciding factor of life and death on the street.
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