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T-5 Bearing retainer

  • Thread starter Thread starter cardudeusa
  • Start date Start date Jan 5, 2004

cardudeusa

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Oct 22, 2002
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Jan 5, 2004
#1
  • Jan 5, 2004
  • #1
When I took the front bearing retainer off the T-5 (out of my 87 GT), it had a race that came out of it. I went to install the Jegs heavy duty bearing retainer that I got, because I used it on my clutch job on my 90 and it worked great. So anyways I tightned down the bolts good and the input shaft wouldnt move. So I pulled the retainer back off and compared it to the old one, the race from the old retainer wont fit in the new Jegs retainer. Does this mean this trans isn't what I thought it was... has someone done a switcheroo? I cant remember what I did to make it work on my 90, but didnt run into this problem. Any ideas would be great.
 
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proxses

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Dec 12, 2000
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Dayton, Oh
Jan 5, 2004
#2
  • Jan 5, 2004
  • #2
Are there and shims below the race on the new retainer?
The shims for play in the main shaft are placed under the retainer race.
You may need to install a smaller shim.
 

cardudeusa

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Oct 22, 2002
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#3
  • Jan 5, 2004
  • #3
I looked at the new retainer. It doesnt have a race, it has 2 cut outs about half an inch, so its not its own race either.
 

tm4mcgrath1

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Aug 31, 2002
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Jan 5, 2004
#4
  • Jan 5, 2004
  • #4
I just ordered a steel bearing retainer with new throwout bearing today from D&D performance. Do the bearing retainers come with these shims or what? The input shaft on the trans currently has a bit of play in it so will new shims and the new bearing retainer fix this? What is involved in installing the retainer anyways? Is it just the 4 bolts and slide the old retainer off/ slide the new one on?
 

cardudeusa

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Oct 22, 2002
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#5
  • Jan 5, 2004
  • #5
The input shaft should have a little bit of play. You will have to remove the bellhousing to get the old reatiner off.
 
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proxses

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Jan 5, 2004
#6
  • Jan 5, 2004
  • #6
Are these cutout opposite from each other?
If so, these are fliud flow ports to keep the bearing lubed.
By how much does your old race not fit. If it is by a slight bit, then put the retainer in the oven at 200* for a couple minutes to expand it. Then try to get the race in.
Also, if your input shaft won't spin, could it be slightly unseated? I might need to be pushed back in.
 

cardudeusa

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Oct 22, 2002
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Jan 5, 2004
#7
  • Jan 5, 2004
  • #7
proxses said:
Are these cutout opposite from each other?
If so, these are fliud flow ports to keep the bearing lubed.
By how much does your old race not fit. If it is by a slight bit, then put the retainer in the oven at 200* for a couple minutes to expand it. Then try to get the race in.
Also, if your input shaft won't spin, could it be slightly unseated? I might need to be pushed back in.
Click to expand...
Yep the cutouts are across from each other. The bearing race is way more than slightly larger. Theres no way it will fit with out a die grinder on the bearing retainer.
 
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proxses

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Jan 5, 2004
#8
  • Jan 5, 2004
  • #8
Hmmm..
Then I have no idea what is wrong.
You may have gotten a wrong part. But I'm not sure how.
Do you have a picture?
 

cardudeusa

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Oct 22, 2002
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Jan 5, 2004
#9
  • Jan 5, 2004
  • #9
I can get a picture... if I can make my ****ty dig cam to work.
 

cardudeusa

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Oct 22, 2002
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#10
  • Jan 5, 2004
  • #10
Ok got it.


If anyones intrested in the 3.55 gears they are on ebay... PM me.
 
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proxses

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Jan 5, 2004
#11
  • Jan 5, 2004
  • #11
Hmmm...
Ok, mine looks like the one on the left with the thick walls. Which I'm is why your old race won't fit.
Well, all I can tell you is see if a shop or store sells bearings and races and see if you can get one that fits. This is a strange one.
Sorry I don't have better news.
 

ashford

Member
Dec 19, 2003
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fargo ND
Jan 5, 2004
#12
  • Jan 5, 2004
  • #12
looks like a difference between world class and non
 

cardudeusa

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#13
  • Jan 5, 2004
  • #13
I got a new bearing and race and the new bearing fits in the jegs retainer. So the Jegs retainer isnt the problem. Can I swap the bearing with the new one or will that cause problems?
 

ashford

Member
Dec 19, 2003
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fargo ND
Jan 5, 2004
#14
  • Jan 5, 2004
  • #14
yep. you need to pull out the input shaft, it needs to be in a certain position to get it out. be careful theres alot of needle bearing in it dont drop them back into the tranny. tip it foreward or something to help out. getting the old bearing off the input shaft is a bit of a job. well you could use a chisel that is sharpened on one end only at a slight angle, or if you could borrow a bering puller that would work too.
 

Eulers

Member
Oct 12, 2010
57
3
9
Apr 14, 2011
#15
  • Apr 14, 2011
  • #15
STUBBORN BEARING RACE

Any suggestions would be appreciated on how to get the bearing race out of the front bearing retainer on a 1987 T-5. The Race is stubbornly stuck in it.

Should I heat up the retainer body with a torch?

Thanks.
 

darthcual

Member
Mar 31, 2005
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Apr 14, 2011
#16
  • Apr 14, 2011
  • #16
You should get a steel bearing retainer for longevity. If its already steel or you dont want to for some other reason, a slide hammer works well. Just need to secure the retainer by having a buddy hold it or wrapping some cloth around it and putting it in a vise.
 

Eulers

Member
Oct 12, 2010
57
3
9
Apr 14, 2011
#17
  • Apr 14, 2011
  • #17
Torch Stubborn Bearing Race Removal?

Thanks. Yes, I have a brand new FRPP steel front bearing retainer awaiting the transfer of the bearing race.

I will check Auto Zone for a slide hammer. Hopefully, they have one with an end fitting appropriate to the diameter of the stubborn bearing race in the old Al retainer.

I do like the idea of heating the old Al retainer with MAP gas. The Al should expand faster than the Fe race. Maybe enough to fall out on its own?
I'm assuming that there will be no phase change in the Fe if I keep any direct flame off the race. Correct?
 

f8tlfiveo

My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.
Aug 8, 2007
1,585
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64
Lancaster, PA
Apr 14, 2011
#18
  • Apr 14, 2011
  • #18
The non world class ones are different..
 

Eulers

Member
Oct 12, 2010
57
3
9
Apr 14, 2011
#19
  • Apr 14, 2011
  • #19
Problem Solved: Stubborn Bearing Race Comes Out

Problem Solved: Stubborn Bearing Race Comes Out

Here is how I got it out:
(1). Note that it was 40 degrees the first day that I originally tried to get out bearing race from the old Front Bearing Retainer. It wouldn't come out. I tried various ways of forcing it out to no avail.
(2). I put penetrating oil on it and let it sit for two days.
(3). Today, being an 80 degree day, I put it out on a dark surface and let the sun heat up the unit. Then I did as I've read others simply do - I held the shaft of the Retainer bare-handed and struck it down onto two parallel wood blocks. Plunk! The race & shim fell below in between the blocks. Ahhh! Relief. It's out.

My perception is that either the oil-soak or the 40 degree difference was enough to cause the release. The aluminum body retainer and steel race expand thermally at different rates so that could have been the cause between stubborn-ess one day & easiness of release the next.
Thanks.
 

Eulers

Member
Oct 12, 2010
57
3
9
Apr 21, 2011
#20
  • Apr 21, 2011
  • #20
T5 SHIMS

I went to the Ford Dealer originally looking for shims. I ended up using Peel and Place shims, from the Gear Zone, as my end play shims. J.C. at the 5speeds.com Gear Zone will tell you which ones to order. I used the upper set. For me, They peeled off in 0.005 inch increments. I ended up with the perfect end play shim, +/- 0.001". I was tickled pink. A great customer experience. (Tip: Use their T5 Tag Identifier).
 
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