T-5 input shaft for a Mustang 2 Bell housing

Yep I put one in last summer. Highly recommend it.

StadEMS3 said:

Use the 90 T5 and go with a QuickTime bell RM-6053, it is bolt in, no need for pilot bearing spacers and it clocks the fork down low like a II bell for easy header clearance. Granted they are not cheap, but it's worth it. I also went with a Fox clutch and fly wheel (I have an 83GT engine in mine)

Quick Time Bellhousing RM-6053: Steel Bellhousing 1974-78 Ford Mustang II - JEGS High Performance

Buy Quick Time Bellhousing RM-6053 at JEGS: Quick Time Bellhousing Steel Bellhousing 1974-78 Ford Mustang II. Guaranteed lowest price!

www.jegs.com

Also, get a trans brace from Classic Auto Reproductions, you use a MII trans bushing.

1974-1978 Mustang II T5 Cross member (85-93 T5 Bell Housing)

1974 - 1978 Mustang II T5 Cross member. This T5 cross member will work with Mustang II V8 when using: 1985-1993 Ford V8 T5 Bell housing 1985-1993 Ford V8 T5 Transmission Bell Housing and works with the stock Mustang II mount Note: Crossmembers are currently on backorder, orders placed today will...

classicautoreproductions.com

If you want to stay with the MII clutch set up, Classic now carries them as well!

1975-1978 Mustang II V8 Clutch

Specifically made for the Mustang II Stage 1: Street, Drag, Drift, Road Race, Rallye, Pulling, Autocross Features an integrally molded carbon Kevlar-based, high performance organic lining that offers smooth engagement and excellent life. This lining has an integrally bonded steel backing for...

classicautoreproductions.com

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The only thing with the quicktime is it will have the shifter even more forward towards the dash.

Here are the dimensions of the two bushings you may need. They are from extra stout.

I recommend the bushing route. I used a II bell and clutch with a 1990 t5, classics crossmember and a pro 5.0 shifter. My v6 driveshaft fit but my v8 driveshaft was a bit too long and needed shortened.

For the early t5 use the longer bushing. I had the machine shop make both bushings out of one piece of stock oil lite using the pdf's above. It was much cheaper then just wasting the excess and then paying again if I upgrade to the longer input shaft.

I used a new stock trans mount and have vibrations above 55. I have a slightly shorter mount I have not tried yet. Check extra stouts thread where we discussed this and the part number is there for the mount I read helps the vibration but I have not tried yet.

If you get a new clutch cable be aware I had to cut 2/3 of the spring off the cable. Otherwise the spring binds and the clutch doesnt work. Also the new cable I received was longer then stock and that allowed it to clear the headers. Stock manifolds you can probably use the factory cable but i melted mine in a few minutes leading to the new one which fits much better under the hood.

My only other advice is the 1990 t5 has an almost granny gear for first using the stock 3.40 rear end. I am coming out of first by 10 mph. If your doing the rear gear as well be aware that first is geared very low on the 1990's t5. I am still getting her together but luckily have not replaced the rear gear yet and may go with something closer to a 3.0 rear end when I get to it. Keep in mind mine will be a cruiser and not a dedicated drag car.

Good luck with your build. I am still doing shakedown runs on mine but ohh man does the manual make a difference.

Enzio said:

Here are the dimensions of the two bushings you may need. They are from extra stout.

Click to expand...

Hello, do you remove the pilot bearing and then put in the bushing? Getting ready to do it. Thank you.

yep. Pull the old bearing/bushing and test fit new bushing on the trans input shaft. make sure you do not skip that step. I did and had to pull the trans back out. Then Install new bushing into crank.