t-5 rubbing on transmission tunnel....trim it?

jaidedeye

Member

Apr 4, 2004

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Goldsboro nc

Dec 10, 2004

#1

• Dec 10, 2004

• #1

i just did my AOD to t-5 swap. my t-5 is rubbing and squeeking against the tunnel where the shifter comes into the car. do i need to trim the hole?

 

04sleeper

Founding Member

Jun 22, 2002

2,674

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89

Dallas, TX

Dec 10, 2004

#2

• Dec 10, 2004

• #2

jaidedeye said:

i just did my AOD to t-5 swap. my t-5 is rubbing and squeeking against the tunnel where the shifter comes into the car. do i need to trim the hole?

Click to expand...

I had to cut mine larger. I just used the lower rubber boot as a guide and cut it open to the mounting holes on it.

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Mod Dude

Feb 18, 2001

43,260

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Massachusetts

Dec 10, 2004

#3

• Dec 10, 2004

• #3

Yes, trim with tin snips

 

jaidedeye

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Apr 4, 2004

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Goldsboro nc

Dec 10, 2004

#4

• Dec 10, 2004

• #4

sweet..thanks

 

mytight95

Active Member

Apr 11, 2003

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Dothan,Al

Dec 10, 2004

#5

• Dec 10, 2004

• #5

can't you adjust your mounts etc. so that everything lines up .....i had this problem with it rubbing on the passenger side of the hole on my 95, i raised the pass. side motor mount and lowered the drivers side mount a lil, and then the motor wasn't tweaked any more, and it is sitting in the middle of the tunnel

I don't know if autos come with smaller holes than the fives speed cars originally though???? just trying to be helpful


jason

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Mod Dude

Feb 18, 2001

43,260

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224

Massachusetts

Dec 10, 2004

#6

• Dec 10, 2004

• #6

mytight95 said:

I don't know if autos come with smaller holes than the fives speed cars originally though???? just trying to be helpful


jason

Click to expand...

Yes, AOD cars come with smaller holes than 5-spds....that's why you need to trim

 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master

Apr 10, 2002

9,039

6

79

Charlotte, NC

Dec 10, 2004

#7

• Dec 10, 2004

• #7

A little 'percussion adjustment' with a small sledge hammer sometimes works wonders too.

 

wht93gtEd

Active Member

Nov 11, 2004

0

9

29

Jersey Shore, New Jersey

Dec 13, 2004

#8

• Dec 13, 2004

• #8

when I did my swap, I finished late, and I was tired & I didn't feel like cutting it nice and taking my time (cause you don't see it anyway).......so I cut it up with tin snips. It doesn't look good, but it did the job pretty easy.

Now, even though I can't see it, I find myself questioning myself as to why I didn't do it nice. Since I'm a perfectionist, it's bugging the hell out of me!

 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master

Apr 10, 2002

9,039

6

79

Charlotte, NC

Dec 13, 2004

#9

• Dec 13, 2004

• #9

Hence the saying - "Why is it there's never time to do it right the first time, but always time to go back and fix it?"

You'll straighten it out - your OCD has kicked in!!

 

04sleeper

Founding Member

Jun 22, 2002

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Dallas, TX

Dec 13, 2004

#10

• Dec 13, 2004

• #10

I was lucky I had an air saw.

 

jaidedeye

Member

Apr 4, 2004

627

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16

Goldsboro nc

Dec 13, 2004

#11

• Dec 13, 2004

• #11

i just hit it with a long 1/2 inch extension and hammer

 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master

Apr 10, 2002

9,039

6

79

Charlotte, NC

Dec 13, 2004

#12

• Dec 13, 2004

• #12

The old 'percussion adjustment'. Ironic - on the Volvo swap, when you center the hump in the HO oil pan over the stock Volvo crossmember, the stock Mustang shifter handle pokes right squarely through the middle of the stock Volvo shift boot. If you buy the Converse kit/motormount and tranny plates, there's no cutting, welding or banging required. Cursing, however, is optional -- and seems to help, at least in the short term.

 

4dStang

Banned

Oct 23, 2002

718

1

0

Near St Louis, Missouri

Dec 13, 2004

#13

• Dec 13, 2004

• #13

jaidedeye said:

i just did my AOD to t-5 swap. my t-5 is rubbing and squeeking against the tunnel where the shifter comes into the car. do i need to trim the hole?

Click to expand...

When I did a swap in my 95 vert, I used a 93- bell and tranny. I was off by about an inch at the hump hole. I ignored it until the trans bumping against the body drove me nuts. I pulled out the dremel with the fiber disk on it, marked a line, covered the shifter hole and grinded it nice and square. Now I can reach the bolts for the shifter.

The lower gasket still fits fine and sealed up well on my short throw B&M. I decided to use the dremel because of the tight space. A jig saw or recip saw is just to big and can hit the tranny. A bigger air grinder with a cut off disk would work too, but watch the sparks.