Drivetrain T-5 Tailshaft Seal: Replace Without H-pipe Removal?


Oct 12, 2010
Is there reasonable working room to replace the T-5 tailshaft seal while the H-Pipe (& exhaust gas recirc piping) is still in place?

I currently have the driveshaft unbolted from the pinion flange. I have the driveshaft's rear half supported by a piece of 4" wide plywood that bridges the two Flowmaster chambers. To provide clearance of the driveshaft yoke to the tranny, I figure I can slide the driveshaft rearward until it hits the top of the differential. However, the cross-pipe in the H-pipe may inhibit working clearance for removal & installation of the seal.

Any thoughts & suggestions on the working clearance needed (H-Pipe in or out) to do a removal & installation of the seal? Am I making it unneccessarily hard on myself by leaving the H-Pipe in during the job?

CAR: 1987 Ford 5.0, high miles, original T-5, original factory H-Pipe & EGR.
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10 Year Member
May 7, 2006
You should have enough room.
I can remove and replace the seal on my 94 GT without taking down the exhaust, it can't be that different from an 87.

I use a screwdriver to remove it.
I did use about a 4 inch section of pipe, the same size as the seal, to drive it on with a hammer.


They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
Jul 2, 2009
South Jersey
This is a very simple job, I don't see why you wouldn't be able to do this with the exhaust still on. Honestly in bolting the driveshaft is the hardest part of this project. It may behoove you to clean the yoke with some emery cloth while its out.


SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
In the garage
mark the rear driveshaft and pinion flange/connections so you know which side goes back where. Sometimes it makes a difference in balance and noise, especially on alum shafts. Some fluid may leak out when you pull the old seal off so have some extra fluid handy to refill the T5.

Before you pull the driveshaft check the play in the driveshaft yoke. If there is a sizable amount, you should replace the bushing in the tailshaft. You should use a press or special tool to remove and install the bushing which you can do with a soft hammer with the tail shaft in the car, but that is not recommended. Also, check the yoke of the driveshaft as a bad bushing/seal can cause grooves in the yoke. Autozone sells the seal and a Timken bearing to replace the bushing that works well.


Oct 12, 2010
All great suggestions! Thanks.
  • TIMKEN #7692S? : It's the tailshaft replacement seal that I was thinking of using b/c it is so readily available at a number of different retail outfits in my city. Is there any experience saying I should avoid this seal?
  • DRIVESHAFT: Original stock iron unit here. I checked the end play and the lateral/radial play of the yoke at the T-5 tailshaft. One-Eighth inch was roughly the lateral/radial play. Seems acceptable?
  • SEAL PULLER vs SCREWDRIVER: I noticed the suggestions to use a screwdriver on the flange of the seal to remove it. Is it best to avoid using a seal puller in this case so as to avoid inadvertently scarring the aluminum inner bore of the tail casting?
  • SEAL DRIVER: I read the suggestion about pipe. I don't have much pipe around unfortunately. I was thinking of using the face of a 2" x 3" with the appropriate sized hole bored out to clear the splined tailshaft of the T-5. Seems workable?
  • T-5 FLUID CAPACITY: It seems the level of the tailshaft in relation to the main case is such that it will let a good amount of the fluid drain out when the tailshaft seal is removed. Yes, I will buy more (Red Line D4 ATF). Do I remember correctly the capacity to be 2.75 quarts?