T-Lok 'S'-spring: F-150 better for daily driver?

[trinity_gt]

In the not too distant future I'm going to be installing a set of FRPP 3.73s in my 02 GT. It's got perhaps 25,000 miles on it, give or take, and I was thinking about freshening the Traction Lok while it's out with new steels & frictions. I can get a rebuild kit for about $50 which seems pretty reasonable.

Talk to me about the pre-load spring and the benefits and drawbacks of going to an F-150 S-spring (F3TZ-4214-A) versus the original Mustang unit (E0AZ-4214-A). Obviously, the torque bias will be increased quite a bit with the heavier F-150 spring but how will this be manifested as a drawback or benefit on the street? The car seems able to easily one-wheel peel around some corners now but in a straight line will lay a couple of fat, even burnout tracks. I don't want a real squirrely rain car either so the diff still has to slip a bit around corners...

What is the factory bias and what would it be with the F-150 spring?

Or should I just replace the clutch packs, leave the factory S-spring there and be done with it?

 

[Mike97gt]

In the not too distant future I'm going to be installing a set of FRPP 3.73s in my 02 GT. It's got perhaps 25,000 miles on it, give or take, and I was thinking about freshening the Traction Lok while it's out with new steels & frictions. I can get a rebuild kit for about $50 which seems pretty reasonable.

Talk to me about the pre-load spring and the benefits and drawbacks of going to an F-150 S-spring (F3TZ-4214-A) versus the original Mustang unit (E0AZ-4214-A). Obviously, the torque bias will be increased quite a bit with the heavier F-150 spring but how will this be manifested as a drawback or benefit on the street? The car seems able to easily one-wheel peel around some corners now but in a straight line will lay a couple of fat, even burnout tracks. I don't want a real squirrely rain car either so the diff still has to slip a bit around corners...

What is the factory bias and what would it be with the F-150 spring?

Or should I just replace the clutch packs, leave the factory S-spring there and be done with it?

well no matter what limited slip you go with you will get some one wheel peel around corners.

the f-150 s-spring ( out of a 8.8.. the 9.75 inch rear end dont use them!)
will give you a stronger t-lok. but you may get some chatter around corners.

if i was you when you do your gears i would do the t-lok too. it's just good too take care of it all at once. BTW some of the new ford t-lok rebuild kits are pre shimed. all you need too do is NOT mix up the plates felt side too right side and your all set.

 

[trinity_gt]

well no matter what limited slip you go with you will get some one wheel peel around corners.

Yes, that's true I guess.

the f-150 s-spring ( out of a 8.8.. the 9.75 inch rear end dont use them!)
will give you a stronger t-lok. but you may get some chatter around corners.

Okay. I'll just stick with the original Mustang spring then.

if i was you when you do your gears i would do the t-lok too. it's just good too take care of it all at once. BTW some of the new ford t-lok rebuild kits are pre shimed. all you need too do is NOT mix up the plates felt side too right side and your all set.

Sweet. Thanks.