T5 Rebuild Guru's

RangerJoe · Oct 7, 2016

I tore my gforce t5 apart a few months ago for a rebuild. So far I have bought a master rebuild kit and both sliders. Originally I thought I was going to need a 2nd and 3rd gear because of the dog teeth being torn up. These cost a pretty penny from gforce, so I have been saving.

Tonight I went back over my old parts and for the life of me I can't figure out why I wanted to replace 3rd gear...it looks really good. 2nd, I am not so sure about. I took pictures of all the teeth. What do you guys think?

Joe

90sickfox · Oct 7, 2016

Those dog teeth are worn. They need an edge at the corners to let the slider engage better. I've filed the gear teeth before and it held up....for a while. Since you're in there already I'd advise going all the way and replace them.

With dog teeth like that you won't get shift as crisp as you'd probably want to. Nothing like having to hold a shifter in second....or bouncing off of second or third.

RangerJoe · Oct 8, 2016

I have tried researching the dog teeth, but there is really little info on how badly worn they have to be before replacing. My first thought was the same as yours, but I ran across a T5 rebuild on a camaros sight.

The consensus was that as long as there were no spurs and the sides of the teeth were straight, it would work. Guy claimed that he reused them with new sliders and it shifted fine.

I will probably replace, but at $235 each, I wanted a second opinion.

Joe

Mustang5L5 · Oct 8, 2016

I would also replace that gear due to the mashed dog teeth. Just not worth the time/energy to pull trans again and replace if you take a chance.

But a new blocker ring should grab the gear and slow it down enough to not grind. The problem will be when the blocker wears over time.

How did the gear get damaged? Were you grinding? What does the mating edge in the slider look like

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RangerJoe · Oct 8, 2016

The sliders look a little worse. I have already bought new sliders. The damage is from years of hard abuse and passes at the track. Some missed gears, some powershifts, and I think the break down of the blocking rings over time.

Yes, the trans was starting to get a little crunchy at high rpms, and I was getting blocked out of shifts. Normal driving wasn't too bad.

Looks like I will replace that gear and I am going to do the billet key upgrade too. Supposedly it helps high rpm shifts.

Joe

90sickfox · Oct 8, 2016

The billet keys are the beez knees. Lol

A lot of times the thin metal that the keys are made from get indentations in them....causing blocked shifts or even locking a car in a gear. The billet ones give a cleaner shift. I get trans parts from thegearbox.org and Hanlon Motorsports.

RangerJoe · Oct 8, 2016

90sickfox said:
The billet keys are the beez knees. Lol

A lot of times the thin metal that the keys are made from get indentations in them....causing blocked shifts or even locking a car in a gear. The billet ones give a cleaner shift. I get trans parts from thegearbox.org and Hanlon Motorsports.

I've seen guys say that the 3-4 is the only one that really needs the billet keys. What are your thoughts? Is it worth it to do the 1-2 as well? Again, at $50 a set, they add up.

Joe

90sickfox · Oct 8, 2016

I've been stuck in second because of a detent spring key....so you know my answer. I've never personally experienced a problem with them on 3-4.

Its all in how deep your money is and how much abuse you plan to put your trans through.

Some guys here have never had an issue with the keys....I was running a 347 then so I guess I was pushing the limit anyways.

The trans will only take so much torque... If you're going to be over 400ft lbs of torque you'll be on the tipping edge anyway, regardless of what you do.

RangerJoe · Oct 8, 2016

90sickfox said:
I've been stuck in second because of a detent spring key....so you know my answer. I've never personally experienced a problem with them on 3-4.

Its all in how deep your money is and how much abuse you plan to put your trans through.

Some guys here have never had an issue with the keys....I was running a 347 then so I guess I was pushing the limit anyways.

The trans will only take so much torque... If you're going to be over 400ft lbs of torque you'll be on the tipping edge anyway, regardless of what you do.

It's rated to 450lbs right now without the upgraded mainshaft. It's behind a 331 going high 11's on drag radials. My plan is to sell the thing as soon as I can and build an auto for it. But it will go back in the cat until it sells, that way I can drive it and a perspective buyer can drive it.

Joe

A5literMan · Oct 8, 2016

RangerJoe said:
It's rated to 450lbs right now without the upgraded mainshaft. It's behind a 331 going high 11's on drag radials. My plan is to sell the thing as soon as I can and build an auto for it. But it will go back in the cat until it sells, that way I can drive it and a perspective buyer can drive it.

Joe

I'd just do 3-4 if you're going to sell it. It will last plenty long for your use and still be fine for the next buyer IMO. Not like it will add much to the resale and should be fine as is. I just had my buddy redo my t-5( synchros,sliders,etc etc.) 354$ worth of parts and will last plenty long enough for my usage. I don't plan on any more passes for a couple years. Just want to drive it on street for awhile and just need to button up some wiring,front accessories etc and it will finally be back on the street(only been 15 months lol)

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