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t5 swap bellhousing question Please help!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter pazcarguy
  • Start date Start date Jan 27, 2007
P

pazcarguy

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
65
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Pittsburgh, PA
Jan 27, 2007
#1
  • Jan 27, 2007
  • #1
I performed a t5 swap last year in my 66 289 coupe using an E6ZR-6394-AA bellhousing with a fulcrum kit so I could use my stock clutch fork. I deceided this winter to swap to either a cable or hydraulic clutch setup (leaning toward hydraulic) and came to realize that I have to change to a 5.0 clutch cable type fork as this is "pulled' by the cable and pushed opposite from the cable by the slave cylinder if I went that route verses being pushed as in the early style. My problem is as follows: After removing everything and reinserting the ball stud in the bellhousing, it (the ball stud) hits the pressure plate and I can't pull the bell housing flush with the blockplate and block. Furthermore I will never be able to put the new style clutch fork on the ball stud pivot. The clutch is 6 months old and is a 3 finger 10 1/2" from Summit Racing. Has anyone run into this problem? I can probably shorten the stud but I feel this will throw the centerline off. I realize that hundreds of people have done this swap so there must be a logical answer. Any ideas? Thanks in advance, Brian
 
H

hsr

Member
Apr 15, 2004
138
0
17
Riverview, MI USA
Jan 27, 2007
#2
  • Jan 27, 2007
  • #2
Brian,

How long is your ball stud? How tall (fore/aft) is the boss that the ball stud is threaded into?

I've got mine apart right now and can compare dimensions if need be.

The only way I can see your ball stud or lever arm hitting the pressure plate is if the ball stud was too long.

Can you post a picture?
 
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pazcarguy

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
65
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0
Pittsburgh, PA
Jan 27, 2007
#3
  • Jan 27, 2007
  • #3
hsr said:
Brian,

How long is your ball stud? How tall (fore/aft) is the boss that the ball stud is threaded into?

I've got mine apart right now and can compare dimensions if need be.

The only way I can see your ball stud or lever arm hitting the pressure plate is if the ball stud was too long.

Can you post a picture?
Click to expand...


Jeff, I am using a stock 1986 bellhousing and stud. I also have a stock 1983 bell housing and stud and have the same problem. I called Summit Racing and I have a RAM Powergrip Clutch and PP. I feel it is this setup causing me the problem. I am not sure but I believe it is deeper as it has 60% more holding force and this is due to heavier springs. The Summit guy told me that Lakewood sells 3 different length ball studs for this problem but I never heard anyone mention this. Maybe my setup is the "diamond in the rough". What is your distance from top of ballstud to mounting surface of bellhousing to block/blockplate? Brian
 
H

hsr

Member
Apr 15, 2004
138
0
17
Riverview, MI USA
Jan 27, 2007
#4
  • Jan 27, 2007
  • #4
3.625" plus ~0.125" for the material thickness of the clutch fork. My bellhousing came out of a '93.
 
P

pazcarguy

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
65
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0
Pittsburgh, PA
Jan 28, 2007
#5
  • Jan 28, 2007
  • #5
hsr said:
3.625" plus ~0.125" for the material thickness of the clutch fork. My bellhousing came out of a '93.
Click to expand...


Jeff, I measured my clearance yesterday and I am at the same dimensions you provided. This has to be an issue with the pressure plate height from the mounting surface of the flywheel/clutch disc thickness. I am going to look into what size (of the three available) adjustable pivots will work best. Thank you for taking the time to check and post a picture. This confirms that I am not dilusional after laying under the car for hours. Brian
 
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