T5 swap questions about parts

Pbum5 · Nov 26, 2007

I have decided to swap out my Toploader for a T5 in the spring.
I have a 289 w/ about 300+ Flywheel HP (with a stroker in the far future)

So I going about rounding up parts over the winter.

I have located a T5z and stock 5.0 Bellhousing and backing plate.

My questions are these –

Will a stock style Clutch fork be ok or is it work the extra cash for a HD Lakewood or other brand?

What is the best T5 Cross member - Modern Driveline, Tube Style or a JBA?

Should I use a Poly or Rubber tranny mount. Is this a 5.0 Mustang part?

Going with a cable clutch.

Any clutch suggestions? A Ford Racing king cobra looks like a good fit.

I’ll more follow up questions.

Thanks.

BarnStang · Nov 26, 2007

If you have the fork that came with the 5.0 bell, it should work fine.
have not used an aftermarket crossmember. Weld up a custom part every time. But I like how sturdy the tube style part looks, just too expensive.
You can use a poly mount. You may feel a bit more vibration, a new rubber one will be pretty stiff too. Youshould be a ble to reuse the one that's in there now.
Centerforce dual friction all the way. Worth every penny. Others may disagree though. My preference.

88gt · Nov 26, 2007

Stock style fork will be fine...

No opinion on a conversion cross member--sorry..

As previously stated, poly mount is a bit harsher, but, I liked it in my '88

Cable clutch will be fine with most Centerforce style clutches, I had a Centerforce I in my '88 and it was VERY easy on the left leg...Dual Friction will be similar in pedal feel.

The T5z is fairly strong, however, there's only so much abuse they can handle. I would spend the extra $$ and contact someone like D&D motorsports or Hanlon and get a upgrade rebuild kit. Adjustable stops on the shifter would be ideal. One over/missed shift and you bend or break a shift fork. Look into the Cobra style tapered input shaft bearing, it adds some strength.

If I were to upgrade to an OD tranmission, go with a TKO at minimum.

Jim

Pbum5 · Nov 27, 2007

BarnStang said:
If you have the fork that came with the 5.0 bell, it should work fine.
have not used an aftermarket crossmember. Weld up a custom part every time. But I like how sturdy the tube style part looks, just too expensive.
You can use a poly mount. You may feel a bit more vibration, a new rubber one will be pretty stiff too. Youshould be a ble to reuse the one that's in there now.
Centerforce dual friction all the way. Worth every penny. Others may disagree though. My preference.

They guy I’m buying the Bell from says the fork he used is bent, so that why I asked about an upgrade. I don’t know if the stock Forks are prone to bending or not.

So the T5 and Toploader use the same Transmission mount?

Pbum5 · Nov 27, 2007

88gt said:
Stock style fork will be fine...

No opinion on a conversion cross member--sorry..

As previously stated, poly mount is a bit harsher, but, I liked it in my '88

Cable clutch will be fine with most Centerforce style clutches, I had a Centerforce I in my '88 and it was VERY easy on the left leg...Dual Friction will be similar in pedal feel.

The T5z is fairly strong, however, there's only so much abuse they can handle. I would spend the extra $$ and contact someone like D&D motorsports or Hanlon and get a upgrade rebuild kit. Adjustable stops on the shifter would be ideal. One over/missed shift and you bend or break a shift fork. Look into the Cobra style tapered input shaft bearing, it adds some strength.

If I were to upgrade to an OD tranmission, go with a TKO at minimum.

Jim

I’m getting a good deal on a New in Box T5z so that’s why I'm getting the ball rolling.
I've read a lot about the T5 or Tremec pros and cons. I think it will be fine for my application. Don’t plan on running slicks or anything. The T5z has a Cobra-style pocket bearing.

Yeah, I hear that a shifter replacement is a good idea. Any suggestions there? Seems that people like the Pro 5.0 shifters.

rbohm · Nov 27, 2007

for clutch linkage, check out this site;

http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/test

scroll down to the T5hydraulic clutch brackets. daze is a member of this forum. i bought a set of his brackets and they are top quality stuff. he also includes a list of parts you need, and where to get them. the master and slave cylinders together run about $120 from speedway motors, so you will have about $200 into a hydraulic clutch conversion, and you wont have to deal with routing the cable to avoid the exhaust system. as for the clutch fork, the stock replacement one will do just fine.

Pbum5 · Nov 27, 2007

rbohm said:
for clutch linkage, check out this site;

http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/test

scroll down to the T5hydraulic clutch brackets. daze is a member of this forum. i bought a set of his brackets and they are top quality stuff. he also includes a list of parts you need, and where to get them. the master and slave cylinders together run about $120 from speedway motors, so you will have about $200 into a hydraulic clutch conversion, and you wont have to deal with routing the cable to avoid the exhaust system. as for the clutch fork, the stock replacement one will do just fine.

That’s an interesting option.
Do you have any pictures of the install?
Any header clearance problems?

SoCalCruising · Nov 28, 2007

The hydraulic clutch is much easier to use with headers than the cable is. When I installed the cable, I had to have one header tube cut and re-routed in order to allow the cable a straight shot at the clutch fork. If yo ualready have headers, the hydraulic would be less of a problem. If you will be buying headers, then just buy a set made for the cable clutch - these guys have a set:
http://www.fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/FPA index1.htm

rbohm · Nov 28, 2007

Pbum5 said:
That’s an interesting option.
Do you have any pictures of the install?
Any header clearance problems?

daze has an excellent write up on the install on his site there.

Pbum5 · Nov 29, 2007

SoCalCruising said:
The hydraulic clutch is much easier to use with headers than the cable is. When I installed the cable, I had to have one header tube cut and re-routed in order to allow the cable a straight shot at the clutch fork. If yo ualready have headers, the hydraulic would be less of a problem. If you will be buying headers, then just buy a set made for the cable clutch - these guys have a set:
http://www.fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/FPA index1.htm

I actually do need new headers.
The FPT headers have been highly recommended.

Does anyone have these headers with a Rack and pinion setup?

Rusty67 · Nov 29, 2007

I have the Modern Drive Line cable clutch setup and cross member in my car. The cross member fit like a glove. I havn't checked the pinion angle on it but I'm sure its correct. As for the cable clutch setup, I'm still not sure I've been able to get it adjusted correctly. I like it and it may be that it was installer error but I havnt' heard anyone else who has used their setup talk about it at all so who knows ?

reenmachine · Nov 29, 2007

I've always used the Ron Morris crossmembers with great results. Lots of exhaust clearance as well.

IMO, with 300 fwhp the T5Z will last forever unless you're really thrashing it hard. I run them with 350hp/350tq without a care in the world. It is a good idea to put a nice shifter on there with adjustable stops though.

I like the stock rubber mount. It's stiff enough and keeps some vibes out of your seat.

Rusty67 · Nov 29, 2007

I used the Ron Morris AOD cross member on my buddies 67 Cougar and the thing fit like a glove as well. The quality on his cross memebers seems to be about the same as Modern Driveline.

I said Modern Drive Line before..... I think driveline is 1 word.... doh.

Pbum5 · Nov 29, 2007

reenmachine said:
I've always used the Ron Morris crossmembers with great results. Lots of exhaust clearance as well.

IMO, with 300 fwhp the T5Z will last forever unless you're really thrashing it hard. I run them with 350hp/350tq without a care in the world. It is a good idea to put a nice shifter on there with adjustable stops though.

I like the stock rubber mount. It's stiff enough and keeps some vibes out of your seat.

Good to hear that about the Ron Morris cross member.
By looking at the pictures it does look like it has a lot of exhaust clearance but has less reinforcement than a JBA or Modern Driveline Cross member.

I wonder if it’s worth installing a Countergear Stabilizer to further strengthen that T5z?

What shifter do you recommend?

Pbum5 · Nov 29, 2007

Rusty67 said:
I have the Modern Drive Line cable clutch setup and cross member in my car. The cross member fit like a glove. I havn't checked the pinion angle on it but I'm sure its correct. As for the cable clutch setup, I'm still not sure I've been able to get it adjusted correctly. I like it and it may be that it was installer error but I havnt' heard anyone else who has used their setup talk about it at all so who knows ?

I am leaning toward the Modern Driveline or JBA cross member.

If I do go to a cable clutch it will be a - Mustang Steve or Modern Driveline but that hydraulic set up that rbohm recommended looks like a better way to go.

reenmachine · Nov 29, 2007

I've been happy with the Ron Morris cable clutch as well. I've installed and driven it in three cars.

I don't know why a trans crossmember has to be super beefy. It doesn't really do anything but hang the transmission. All of the drivetrain torque is reacted by the motor mounts, where strength and stiffness really matter.

rbohm · Nov 29, 2007

Pbum5 said:
I wonder if it’s worth installing a Countergear Stabilizer to further strengthen that T5z?

by all means. anything that improves durability is generally always a good idea. the nice thing is the cost is not out of line.

What shifter do you recommend?

the pro 5.0 shifter.

Rusty67 · Nov 30, 2007

Add the counter gear stablizer if you can afford it. Does the T5z come with a steel front bearing retainer ? I can't remember. Thats a definate upgrade no matter what.

As for the shifter, I would recomend the same Hurst I got for mine but the thing broke like 5 seconds after I used it. I think MGW makes a shifter for the T5. Look for one with shift stops (this is a MUST) and one that has adjustable spring bias as well (very nice to customize the shifter to your liking). If MGW makes one for the T5 it will have adjustable stops but I don't know about the spring bias. My Hurst has it but for some reason the 1-2 recentering spring doesn't work for jack on mine... I am going to take the hole damn thing appart and see what broke at some point.

Pbum5 · Nov 30, 2007

Rusty67 said:
Add the counter gear stablizer if you can afford it. Does the T5z come with a steel front bearing retainer ? I can't remember. Thats a definate upgrade no matter what.
.

Yes, it does have a steel-bearing retainer.

Here are the specs. (Just no HD counter gear stabilizer)

T5z
Features:_* Heavy-duty "World Class" T-5 5-speed manual transmission with short-throw shifter._* 330 ft./lbs. torque capacity._* Double-moly 2nd speed, 3rd speed and countershaft cluster gears._* Carbon-fiber 3-4 blocker rings._* Improved synchronizers and bearings._* 1-1/16 in. diameter 10-tooth input spline._* 28-tooth output spline._* 7-tooth speedometer drive gear._* Cobra-style pocket bearing._* Steel input bearing retainer.

T5 swap questions about parts

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