TC rear disc noise

Legendary · Oct 13, 2004

I noticed that my rear disc brakes sweak when rolling. (loudly!) when I apply the brakes it stops. I checked the caliper and I saw that I only have one anti rattle clip for each rear caliper. Would this be the cause of the noise? I did a search on the net and couldn't find a place that sells them. Do I have to hit the junk yard for these clips?

Also I was told by Matt to get some anti moan brackets from the ford dealership. That and check the axle hat vs. rotor hat to make sure I'm not warping the rotors when I bolt the wheels on. How do I solve this? I didn't notice the problem untill I bolted on my new cobra rims. Could this be the problem? What does the term "warping the rotor" means?

Legendary · Oct 13, 2004

No brake people out there??

jrichker · Oct 13, 2004

My Rh rear brake rotor squeeks when I go around LH curves fast. I suspect that the wheel bearing has too much slack in it. I have a new rotor & it did the same thing with an old rotor. I tried using a dial indicator to check the runout, but the magnetic base wouldn't stay in place.

Legendary · Oct 14, 2004

I had my car on the jack stands yesterday and I let off the clutch to allow the tires to roll. I noticed the the passenger side rear wheel slightly wobbles when it turns. I took it off and reinstalled and it still does it. What can be done to fix this? Could that be the possible reason for the noise?

ratrapp · Oct 14, 2004

i'm not sure the anti-moan brackets will help.i put the entire t-bird rear under my car and it has the brackets on it,it squaeks on the driver side and i have new rotors,pads, and calipers.i do notice that if i tap the brakes or go side to side that it stops for a little bit.maybe jrichker is on to something about the wheel bearings.i thought mine felt ok when i put new axle seals in but maybe i was wrong.

Sevan · Oct 14, 2004

Legendary, mine rattled when I reversed. If you still have the stock ebrake cables from the drum brakes, remove them, my drive side was rubbing against my rim. You dont need the anti rattle clip for the rears, I dont have any on mine. Once I revomed the ebrake lines the noise went away. Check your rotors. make sure that the calipers are sitting correctly.

Matt90GT · Oct 14, 2004

First make sure the caliper is centered when installed on the rotor in the middle of the slides. you know it how it slides back and forth, make sure that is centered. If not, you may have to shim your anchor brackets.

second you could have a warped brake rotor.

third, the ID of the rotor's hat may be smaller than the OD of the axle flange. In this case when you bolt the wheel on, it warps the rotor. you will need to mill the axle flange at a 45* angle to prevent the problem. The mathis mustang book shows how this is done.

Lastly, be sure the antimoan brackets are installed and I am assuming you do not have a stuck or dragging caliper here.

Legendary · Oct 15, 2004

I'm gonna check everything tomorrow. What should my lug nuts be torqued at if I was to use a torque wrench?

ratrapp · Oct 16, 2004

100 ft.lbs should be plenty.

Legendary · Oct 18, 2004

Thanks.

I took a look at the caliper yesterday and noticed that it had a deep groove and scraping around the edge. What could this be from and could this be causing the noise? I'm gonna take some pictures and post them up a little later. It looks as if the caliper is a little too close to the rotor. There is a clear distance between the passenger side (the one making the noise) and the driver.

Matt90GT · Oct 18, 2004

Legendary said:
Thanks.

I took a look at the caliper yesterday and noticed that it had a deep groove and scraping around the edge. What could this be from and could this be causing the noise? I'm gonna take some pictures and post them up a little later. It looks as if the caliper is a little too close to the rotor. There is a clear distance between the passenger side (the one making the noise) and the driver.

That is most likely your noise. You first need to make sure that the ID on the rotor is larger than the OD on the axle flange.

After that, is the scraping on the inside or outside edge? Once you know the rotor is not being warped by the clearances, you need to shim the anchor bracket in or out so the caliper is centered on the rotor. Grade 8 washers work well for this.

Legendary · Oct 19, 2004

The scraping in on the outside of the rotor.

To check the clearance of the rotor and axle just look behind the rotor right and make sure anything ins't touching?

Legendary · Oct 20, 2004

Here are the pics of the rotor. I couldn't get the picture of the grove without it coming out dark but you can clearly see it.

NCStang86 · Oct 20, 2004

I have a 86 Gt w/ TC brakes and they sweak like crazy. I've tried everthing. I changed the rotors, calipers, brake hoses, installed an adjustable prop.valve, everything u can think of and they still sweak. I did put the anti-moan braces on and they helped alot, especially turning and reverse. Sometimes they sweak worse than others. I guess my next try will be cross drilled or slotted rotors and braided brake lines. I feel your pain!

Matt90GT · Oct 21, 2004

Well start measuring the ID and OD of things. Most likely you will need to mill a few thousands off the axle flange.

Also make sure the caliper is centered in the slide when installed.

NCStang86 · Oct 21, 2004

I've done all that including cutting a few thousands off the new rotors.All of the measurements look pretty good.I've ghanged the slider pins too.I do have a hard time fitting the brake pads between the anti-rattle clips. Are they supposed to be that tight?I was thinking that it was just the poor quality of the aftermarket pads.I think I've done everything that is needed for rear disc.I have the plug in the prop. valve,the correct e-brake cables,Adjustable prop. valve,but I am still running the stock 86 master cylinder.I am still the stock 86 front brakes, but I have all the the parts and will be upgrading to 87-93 soon.I guess I will change the master cylinder then.

Legendary · Oct 25, 2004

Got down and drity yesterday. Come to find out the the scraping came from the caliper. It was too close to the rotor. I simply fixed this with two washers. Now there's plenty of clearance on both sides of the rotor. But that didn't solve the noise problem. Now instead of sqweaking all the time it seems to do it after I drive the car for a few minutes. I'm wondering if this if from the wheel bearings heating up.

Matt90GT · Oct 25, 2004

Legendary said:
Got down and drity yesterday. Come to find out the the scraping came from the caliper. It was too close to the rotor. I simply fixed this with two washers. Now there's plenty of clearance on both sides of the rotor. But that didn't solve the noise problem. Now instead of sqweaking all the time it seems to do it after I drive the car for a few minutes. I'm wondering if this if from the wheel bearings heating up.

Your caliper is probably broke, stuck or frozen. calipers with built in E brakes have clutches that self adjust the piston. If they are broken, you will have problems with the caliper. Easiest way to damage them is to push in the piston, you have to turn them to defeat them.

Grab a haynes or Chiltons manual for help there, but go back and inspect the motion of the calipers in the rear.

Other idea is you messed with the booster rod and it is extended out to far. Back off half a turn.

Legendary · Oct 26, 2004

Since I got the calipers used from the junk yard I think I'll go ahead and replace the problem caliper and see what happens. Thanks and I'll post what happens.

Sevan · Oct 26, 2004

if your going to replace the caliper, change both sides while ur at it

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