I haven't called TCP yet as its the weekend, but wondering if anyone here can help.
I just finished putting TCPs coil over setup on last week. Drove it for the first time since I got it aligned and while it drives very nice and handles much better, I am getting a very loud popping sound. most noticeably when hitting bumps in the road where the seemed together 2 pieces of concrete/asphalt (like on a freeway over pass when you hit the seems of the different bridge pieces) And also potholes, even small ones.
In my driveway I opened the door and had my friend jump on my rocker panel and you can hear it pop when it compresses and then when it rebounds. I was placing my hand on various parts of the suspension and beleive I narrowed it down the the strut rod where it mounts to the frame.
I loosened the strut rods where they mount to the frame in the front and it got worse. So I loosened where the strut rod mount to the lower control arm, jumped on the rocker panels again to try and settle everything with the weight on the suspension, re-torqued the strut rod and jumped on the rocker panels again and everything was quiet. Drove it around the block through some smooth dips(gutters for water drainage), then to find some small potholes and it made the noises right away when I went of the transition from my driveway to the street.
Put it up on jack stands, pulled the shock/spring out and manually lifted the control arms through the full range of motion on both sides, and it was very smooth, no binding felt or noises heard, however with zero weight on the suspension, there really is no forces to act on the strut rod.
I am 90% sure that its coming from the strut rod where it mounts to the frame. It seems to happen under a very quick impulse of compression and tension of the strut rod (which would explain why I didn't get any noise while manually lifting the suspension through its travel).
The instructions stated to inspect the mounting areas of frame where the strut rod mounts to. The metal was not 100% perfect but there is no rust and the strut rod fit flat against the metal with no rocking when I test fit it, and the hole was nice and round. The same went for the upper shock mounts where the spot-welds were drilled out, and the upper control arms against the shock tower. No rust in any of there areas, and the metal was flat and each piece fit flat against the metal with no rocking or slop.
Even when it makes the sound, there does not feel to be any binding of the suspension as it travels. The rid is actually very nice.
There can be a vibration felt through my feet on the floor boards as well, and It is both sides doing it. the Vibration felt the strongest on the strut rod when I felt around with my hand.
I would put my stock strut rods on just to eliminate the TCP ones but unfortunately I had to cut them off because the bolts were permanently seized onto the lower control arm, even my impact wrench could not get them off.
I am thinking about finding a thin piece of hard rubber or something to put in between there, kind of how the factory bushings were, but something much thinner, not to allow give for compression/stretching but to just absorb the sound hopefully.
I just finished putting TCPs coil over setup on last week. Drove it for the first time since I got it aligned and while it drives very nice and handles much better, I am getting a very loud popping sound. most noticeably when hitting bumps in the road where the seemed together 2 pieces of concrete/asphalt (like on a freeway over pass when you hit the seems of the different bridge pieces) And also potholes, even small ones.
In my driveway I opened the door and had my friend jump on my rocker panel and you can hear it pop when it compresses and then when it rebounds. I was placing my hand on various parts of the suspension and beleive I narrowed it down the the strut rod where it mounts to the frame.
I loosened the strut rods where they mount to the frame in the front and it got worse. So I loosened where the strut rod mount to the lower control arm, jumped on the rocker panels again to try and settle everything with the weight on the suspension, re-torqued the strut rod and jumped on the rocker panels again and everything was quiet. Drove it around the block through some smooth dips(gutters for water drainage), then to find some small potholes and it made the noises right away when I went of the transition from my driveway to the street.
Put it up on jack stands, pulled the shock/spring out and manually lifted the control arms through the full range of motion on both sides, and it was very smooth, no binding felt or noises heard, however with zero weight on the suspension, there really is no forces to act on the strut rod.
I am 90% sure that its coming from the strut rod where it mounts to the frame. It seems to happen under a very quick impulse of compression and tension of the strut rod (which would explain why I didn't get any noise while manually lifting the suspension through its travel).
The instructions stated to inspect the mounting areas of frame where the strut rod mounts to. The metal was not 100% perfect but there is no rust and the strut rod fit flat against the metal with no rocking when I test fit it, and the hole was nice and round. The same went for the upper shock mounts where the spot-welds were drilled out, and the upper control arms against the shock tower. No rust in any of there areas, and the metal was flat and each piece fit flat against the metal with no rocking or slop.
Even when it makes the sound, there does not feel to be any binding of the suspension as it travels. The rid is actually very nice.
There can be a vibration felt through my feet on the floor boards as well, and It is both sides doing it. the Vibration felt the strongest on the strut rod when I felt around with my hand.
I would put my stock strut rods on just to eliminate the TCP ones but unfortunately I had to cut them off because the bolts were permanently seized onto the lower control arm, even my impact wrench could not get them off.
I am thinking about finding a thin piece of hard rubber or something to put in between there, kind of how the factory bushings were, but something much thinner, not to allow give for compression/stretching but to just absorb the sound hopefully.
