>>>>TECH ARTICLES<<<<

Basic overview of what you need ot swap a Turbo engine in an 87-90 2.3 car when using an 87-8 thunderbird ECU

In all honesty you have one wire that you have to run (if using the 87-8 TC ecu)
Cut the connector off of the EGR position solenoid, as the turbo ecu does not use it. The wires at the sol are an exact match for the VAM of the turbo car (pin 26,46,27)
and the wire you have to add is pin 43 (also for the vam)
Then at the ecu remove pin52 (egr)
and cut pin # 24 about 4" from the ecu, and then "t" the wire into pin #46 (sig return)-this will lock the ecu in premium fuel mode.
Also use the Mustang injector harness, as this has the o2 sesnor ground in it.

turbo troubleshooting guide

I found this site while surfing for turbocharger websites

http://www.wilkinsondiesel.com

From their main page scroll down and click on Diesel Troubleshooting guide.

The center column has an image of a turbo, click on the image and it'll take you to the turbocharger troubleshooting guide.

The site is meant for Diesel engines but a turbo is a turbo is a turbo no matter what engine it's on.

Originally posted by 934Banger
Automatic to Manual transmission conversion:

http://www.westcoastfords.com/tech/tech/t5swap/t5swap.html

Click to expand...

Yeah, this site isn't working for me...thought I'd let ya know.

MAF adapter: http://therangerstation.com/airintake.htm

3G alternator swap

5.0L

http://www.racesystems.com/3gproj/

2.3L

http://www.montac.com/mustang/3g_upgrade.htm

Turbo

http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/...r Install.htm

K&N Filter

For turbo applications using the big vam the filter # re-0930 is the one commonly used to replace the stock airbox.

Stinger

A/C clutch replacement.

To determine if you need a clutch check your compressor first by turning the center bolt to see if it turns freely (with ratchet) also check to make sure you system is charged. Checking For power to the clutch is also a good idea before starting, you dont want to replace something that isnt broken check out the rest of the sytem before you assume its the A/C clutch.

--To Change--

*Special Tool Needed : Snap ring Pliers*

First you take off the belt, and the center nut on the clutch. Then use a puller and pull the clutch disc off.

Next Remove the snap ring in the center under the clutch, its a pain to get to, i reccommend using snap ring pliers. Screwdrivers dont work all that well for it. Then just pull the pully off.

After the pully has been removed you will expose the Clutch coil. There is another snap ring insde the center section of the coil. Its hard to see when its on the car but it is there. I used a mirror to Find it. Remove that snap ring. then the clutch Coil comes off.

When you reassemble use the New snap rings (i Bent the old ones) and put them in with the bevel toward the Front, they will not seat in the groove if you do not have the bevel facing the right way. After you have the coil and the pully on you must use shims (comes in the kit) to bring the clutch disc the correct distance from the pully. The annoying part about this is you must just do it by trial and error. The clutch kit should tell you the correct distance. but you must put the shims in and put the center nut back on befor you check it with feeler gauges. if it isnt right it will drag if too close, or slip if too tight. Keep removing and replacing shims behind the disc untill you get the distance right. After you get the spacing right you have to wear in the clutch by cycleing it on and off several times over a min or two. After you have done the break in check the distance again with the feeler gauges and check the center nut tightness. If they are good you are done. Enjoy your funtional air conditioner. if you have any questions just ask.

Dr.

P.S. I would NOT use a Junkyard one. Its alot of work to risk having to do it again. Plus the new ones have an Upgraded design that works better.

site i found that have new parts for the t3 and t4 turbos
http://www.relentlessracing.com/turbo_parts_page.html

94-95 5.0 throttle body up-grade
http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/23/23tltb.html

junkyard IC ratings
http://www.dohcfiero.com/intercoolerFlow.htm

Make your own stainless steel braided brake lines (works for 5.0 upgrade, dunno about 2.3?)

For the hop from the rear axle to the rear brake calipers:
- (2) 10" rear caliper lines 63010110

For the hop from the chassis to the rear axle:
- (1) 8" rear axle lines 63010108

For the hop from the chassis to the front calipers:
- (2) 16" front capiler lines 63010116

To adapt the factory hardline fittings to -3AN fittings for the braided steel lines:
- (4) -3AN to 7/16-24 IF hard-to-flex adapt 989549 (For later front brakes (94+ I THINK,) one of these should be replaced with a -3AN to 3.8-24 inverted flare fitting.)

Factory banjos will be a little too long. Don't forget to get at least two new crush washers per banjo:
- (4) -3AN 10mm .425" banjos 997631

For the chassis fitting on the rear axle to chassis hop:
- (1) -3AN 3/8" .425" axle hop banjo 997603

For the axle end of the chassis to axle hop:
- (1) Tee, 3/8"-24 IF brass 972050

For the axle end of the chassis to axle hop:
- (1) adapter for tee, -3AN to 3/8-24 IF 581531

to order from summit, add "EAR-" before the p/n's
**Not DOT Approved, USE AT YOUR OWN RISK**
I will be using a set on my street car

On Detonation and preignition....
preignition can cause detonation.
Too much spark advance causes detonation for the same reasons as preigntion

How to open your car door:
1. Grab handle.
2. Pull up firmly.
3. Pull out door.
4. Enjoy.

Here is my 2.3T swap page. It covers 87 to 90 Mustangs using an 88 Turbo Coupe as the donor. I have the usual wiring diagrams but also created a vacuum diagram for those that can’t figure out what goes where. I started a pin out diagram with color codes but that’s not quite done yet. It should be within a few days though. Also have info on wiring in the EGR for people who need it for emissions and wiring instructions for using the stock Boost Controller.

www.flemworld.com = Click on Slugstang and then 85 How To’s.

Or go directly to it here = www.flemworld.com/slug/howto/8790T.html

Ok, i was poking around racer walsh's web page when i ran across some info thought you might be interested in...

http://racerwalsh.zoovy.com/category/techinicalinformation/

Back To Basics for the 2300
2300 Camshaft Specs
2300 Valve Springs

"woo To the Hoo"

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This is not directly related to Turbo or 2.3L engines but here is a link to a write up I did for replacing the stock gauges in a 79 to 86 Mustang with Autometer gauges.

79-86 Gauge Upgrade

will that y pipe fit a 93 lx and is it compatible w/flowmasters 40 series, also what size is that pipe, i've been told it's a 2.25. Thanks

lonchair said:

Everybody is alwys asking about duels, here are your part numbers:

Exhaust "Y" Pipe:
Ford: E4ZZ-5246-A
Walker replacement: 43982

Exhaust Pipes:
Left: Dynomax 45060
Right: Dynomax 45059

Click to expand...

half the links in this thread dont work