Tech Tips

final5-0 · Nov 28, 2008

1) Coolant runs all over the place when you pull the heads

Don't Ya Just Hate That

Those back two coolant plugs in the block

Replace em with those petcocks you can open and close

Just open em and drain the block down below the deck surface

2) Those two hard coolant lines that run down the side of the VC

They seem get in the way when you work
and
You can't pull the VC without draining coolant and removing them

I cut mine off just after the bend

I replaced them with heater hose like you find on the older Stangs

Much easier to work around and I can take off the VC with them in place

Hey ... Lately ... Well ... I just wanted to add something tech like

Man O Man ... I love this place ... but ... The activity had almost died

Anybody Else ... Throw in your tech tip ideas

Grady

cbarr300 · Nov 29, 2008

Great idea Grady

1. Always put teflon tape (or other form of thread sealant) on the bottom 5 head bolts/studs

2. ALWAYS put PB blaster or liquid wrench on bolts you think may be an issue and let them soak...it could say you a headache.

3. As simple as this sounds...use a torque wrench. Torque specs are there for a reason.

4. When installing headers get the smallest headed bolts you can find. You'll be glad you did when you go to tighten them down.

5. This isn't really tech...but keep your engine bay clean. If you ever have to work on it you'll be glad you did. Getting greasy can suck.

wow....wonder how I know all that....

KamiKaziDK · Nov 29, 2008

If you're still sporting the stock MAF sensor in your car and you're handy with a dremel.....pull it out and cut the cross bar out that's there to smooth out the airflow, it'll net you a couple horsepower

revhead347 · Nov 29, 2008

KamiKaziDK said:
If you're still sporting the stock MAF sensor in your car and you're handy with a dremel.....pull it out and cut the cross bar out that's there to smooth out the airflow, it'll net you a couple horsepower

This will ruin the sample volume for the mass air meter. It's good for a couple of horsepower because the car runs leaner.

KUrt

hollywoodstang · Nov 29, 2008

How is this so??? he is not drilling/honing out the center hole section of the MAF(where the needle stays). it's just getting rid of the bar in the center.

All of the newer mustang MAF doesn't even have that bar in the middle. And if you get rid of the bar i think you will run "Rich" instead of "Lean"

I had JET MAF and it was factory meter with center bar gone with their own electronic.

When i had it i think it ran better and my idle was smoother then my Pro-M meter and i was running 24lbs injectors.

So i don't know

revhead347 · Nov 30, 2008

The electronics are tuned to measure with a certain percentage of the air going through the sample tube. If you change the cross sectional area of flow outside of the sample tube, that ratio will change. Aftermarket meters are tuned for different percentages, that's why they work fine. If you increase the cross sectional area of the mass air meter outside of the sample tube, more unmetered air will get into the induction system, leading to a lean condition.

Kurt

cbarr300 · Nov 30, 2008

revhead hit the nail on the head on this one. Good info.

Another thing most people don't mention in write-ups...

anytime you have a bolt that requires a certain torque..always clean the threads on the bolt, the threads in the block (or whatever you're screwing into), and always clean the head of the bolt/washer up.

hollywoodstang · Nov 30, 2008

revhead347 said:
The electronics are tuned to measure with a certain percentage of the air going through the sample tube. If you change the cross sectional area of flow outside of the sample tube, that ratio will change. Aftermarket meters are tuned for different percentages, that's why they work fine. If you increase the cross sectional area of the mass air meter outside of the sample tube, more unmetered air will get into the induction system, leading to a lean condition.

Kurt

Oh i see. Good info.

blksn955.o · Nov 30, 2008

One thing about the maf stuff being posted above. It has been done many times over the years.

The Theory above does make sense...just the outcome from that leaner move in A/F causes more issues.

with our 94-95 load based 5.0 eec programing any change in the maf of +/- 3% (or less) generally does nothing more than create more headache's than power gains. Many, many, many people over the years have ported the maf, cut the center out, and done yadda, yadda, yadda. Almost all (there are no 100% in life after all) had some kind of drivability issue pop up. Most of the time its an idle issue or stalling/bucking at low speeds/sudden stops.

Will you see a gain? you might see a small gain. Our EEC does run fairly rich stock but changing that by porting the meter is probably one of the worst ways to correct.

The size of the stock maf is already a 70mm that has proven time and time again to handle around 300rwhp. Most of the avg. bolt ons by that time will need more airflow/bigger injectors anyway.

In the end I would not suggest porting/removing the center section of the maf...either get a tune to correct the A/F if the maf is not pegged or get a new maf that can handle the airflow needed and a tune to get everything setup correctly.

My tech tip for stangnet is one I learned from Grady...search is your friend.

final5-0 · Nov 30, 2008

blksn955.o said:
My tech tip for stangnet is one I learned from Grady...search is your friend.

Hey ... I learned to tune with a Tweecer

Search was a ... Necessity :Word:

I gotta say Greg ... I did find your comment amusing
but
As you saw for yourself ... One can only ask so many Questions

I could not agree more
with your comment about running out of injector before meter

Grady

KamiKaziDK · Dec 1, 2008

I never had any driveability issues at all, but then again, I cut it out the same time I installed my exhaust and bumped up my fuel pressure as recomended from MAC when you put a full exhaust on your car, runs awesome, no stalling, no stutters

earleys94gt · Dec 1, 2008

Best Tech. tip ever...

TAKE YOUR TIME AND DO IT RIGHT.

mhespenh · Dec 1, 2008

Take pictures of/label lines/wire connections AND their routing BEFORE you disassemble.

You don't want to be frantically searching the interwebs at 3 am trying to find out what vacuum connections go where after you've put everything back together.

Not that I've done this...

mhespenh · Dec 1, 2008

final5-0 said:
2) Those two hard coolant lines that run down the side of the VC

They seem get in the way when you work
and
You can't pull the VC without draining coolant and removing them

I cut mine off just after the bend

I replaced them with heater hose like you find on the older Stangs

Much easier to work around and I can take off the VC with them in place

Grady,

Are you talking about the two lines that run over the pass. side of the lower intake? The ones held down by a bracket attached to one of the lower intake bolts?

I HATE those lines. If those are the ones you are talking about I'm gonna do that next time I have the upper intake off.

final5-0 · Dec 1, 2008

mhespenh said:
Grady,

Are you talking about the two lines that run over the pass. side of the lower intake? The ones held down by a bracket attached to one of the lower intake bolts?

I HATE those lines. If those are the ones you are talking about I'm gonna do that next time I have the upper intake off.

Yes Sir

Here be you a pic

Grady

Tech Tips

final5-0

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final5-0

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final5-0

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