Damn man i'm sorry totally forgot you were getting your dyno test this morning.
You have a stock t-stat and are complaining that an after market radiator didn't lower your temps below the stock t-stat? You do realize you are asking a new part to do something it can't right?
As stated above. You can put a semi truck radiator in the car, but the fluid can't circulate until the t-stat opens up. So you are defeating the purpose in a round about way. The only change you will get with what you have is the "temps came back down quickly" part. :wink:
Hissin for everyone's benefit when searching.... where did you get the Mr. G stat and what do you look for when ordering the "balanced" version of a stat?
It sounds like you can get the Mr G's at some parts stores (not around here that I know of). I get mine at the local speed shop for 10 bucks. Summit also has them (I toss an extra one in when ordering something else).
The issue with cheapo (non-balanced stats) is that when pressure goes up (you at the track, for instance), the opening point for the stat goes up because of the difference in pressure on both sides of the stat.
The balanced ones have a nice shroud which protects the stat, and it equilizes pressure so this distortion doesnt occur. It also HUGELY reduces the chances of the stat getting stuck.
It sounds like you can get the Mr G's at some parts stores (not around here that I know of). I get mine at the local speed shop for 10 bucks. Summit also has them (I toss an extra one in when ordering something else).
The issue with cheapo (non-balanced stats) is that when pressure goes up (you at the track, for instance), the opening point for the stat goes up because of the difference in pressure on both sides of the stat.
The balanced ones have a nice shroud which protects the stat, and it equilizes pressure so this distortion doesnt occur. It also HUGELY reduces the chances of the stat getting stuck.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MRG-4364
Added to wishlist.They do look different.
Can you check the mating surfaces with a machinist's edge?
There's no way it should have been a true 250*F. Did that seem possible or do you think there was air in the system, causing an error in the readings?
I normally let the gasketmaker set for as long as I can (overnight if possible, for a couple hours if not). I use the grey water pump and t-stat housing gasket goop.
Not that any of this helps. Other than warpage, I'm not sure why it's leakin for you.
Good luck bud.
It is certainly possible that the gauge is not reading correctly because of air in the system, because it doesn't seem right that it would climb like 55 degrees in 3 seconds...literally...
That sure sounds like air.
I put the driver side front so it's the highest point in the system (park the driver front on a little hill or jack the driver front up).
On a cold motor, I remove the cap and let it idle. BE REAL CAREFUL OF ANY COOLANT THAT SPEWS OUT OF THE RADIATOR NECK. Putting a clean rag over the rad neck might not be a bad idea. Then I let it idle for 15 mins or so. Once the stat opens, air has an easier time of escaping.
I usually don't use anything but the gasket
I've seen many peeps say those chrome housings leak profusely
Grady
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