Test Fuel Injection while car is apart?

The odds are you have a vacuum leak, or O2 sensor problems.

Vacuum leaks:
Finding vacuum leaks

Revised 04-Aug-2011 to add pintle cap, PCV grommet & power brake check valve grommet to checklist.

There is no easy way to find vacuum leaks. It is a time consuming job that requires close inspection of each and every hose and connection.

Small vacuum leaks may not show much change using a vacuum gauge. The range of "good readings" varies so much from engine to engine that it may be difficult to detect small leaks. The engine in my first Mustang pulled about 16.5" of vacuum at 650-7250 RPM, which I consider rather low. It was a mass market remanufactured rebuild, so no telling what kind of camshaft it had. Average readings seem to run 16"-18" inches at idle and 18"-21" at 1000 RPM. The only sure comparison is a reading taken when your car was performing at its best through all the RPM ranges and what it is doing now. Use one of the spare ports on the vacuum tree that is mounted on the firewall near the windshield wiper motor.

Use a squirt can of motor oil to squirt around the mating surfaces of the manifold & TB. The oil will be sucked into the leaking area and the engine will change speed. Avoid using flammable substitutes for the oil such as propane or throttle body cleaner. Fire is an excellent hair removal agent, and no eyebrows is not cool...

The vacuum line plumbing is old and brittle on many of these cars, so replacing the lines with new hose is a good plan. The common 1/8” and ¼” vacuum hose works well and isn’t expensive.

The PCV grommet and the power brake booster check valve grommet are two places that often get overlooked when checking for vacuum leaks. The rubber grommets get hard and lose their ability to seal properly. The PVC grommet is difficult to see if it is correctly seated and fitting snugly.

Fuel injector O rings can get old and hard. When they do, they are prone to leaking once the engine warms up. This can be difficult to troubleshoot, since it is almost impossible to get to the injectors to squirt oil into the fuel injector mounting bosses. If the plastic caps on the fuel injectors (pintle caps) are missing, the O rings will slide off the injectors and fall into the intake manifold.

Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $3-$4 per kit. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:
http://www.partsplus.com/ or http://www.autovalue.com/ or http://www.pepboys.com/ or http://www.federatedautoparts.com/

Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.

Use motor oil on the O rings when you re-assemble them & everything will slide into place. The gasoline will wash away any excess oil that gets in the wrong places and it will burn up in the combustion chamber. Heat the pintle caps in boiling water to soften them to make them easier to install.



Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds



Vacuum leak due to slipped lower intake manifold gasket...

Ask Nicoleb3x3 about the intake gasket that slipped out of place and caused idle and vacuum leak problems that could not be seen or found by external examination. I don't care what you spray with, you won't find the leak when it is sucking air from the lifter valley. It simply isn't possible to spray anything in there with the lower manifold bolted in place.





See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

TFI module differences & pinout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif

Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif


Code 41 or 91 Three digit code 172 or 176 - O2 sensor indicates system lean. Look for a vacuum leak or failing O2 sensor.

Revised 20-Nov-2011 to include computer pin numbers for O2 sensor wiring for resistance checks

Code 41 is a RH side sensor,
Code 91 is the LH side sensor.

Code 172 is the RH side sensor
Code 176 is the LH side sensor

The computer sees a lean mixture signal coming from the O2 sensors and tries to compensate by adding more fuel. Many times the end result is an engine that runs pig rich and stinks of unburned fuel.

The following is a Quote from Charles O. Probst, Ford fuel Injection & Electronic Engine control:
"When the mixture is lean, the exhaust gas has oxygen, about the same amount as the ambient air. So the sensor will generate less than 400 Millivolts. Remember lean = less voltage.

When the mixture is rich, there's less oxygen in the exhaust than in the ambient air , so voltage is generated between the two sides of the tip. The voltage is greater than 600 millivolts. Remember rich = more voltage.

Here's a tip: the newer the sensor, the more the voltage changes, swinging from as low as 0.1 volt to as much as 0.9 volt. As an oxygen sensor ages, the voltage changes get smaller and slower - the voltage change lags behind the change in exhaust gas oxygen.

Because the oxygen sensor generates its own voltage, never apply voltage and never measure resistance of the sensor circuit. To measure voltage signals, use an analog voltmeter with a high input impedance, at least 10 megohms. Remember, a digital voltmeter will average a changing voltage." End Quote

Testing the O2 sensors 87-93 5.0 Mustangs
Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. You'll have to pull the passenger side kick panel off to gain access to the computer connector. Remove the plastic wiring cover to get to the back side of the wiring. Use a safety pin or paper clip to probe the connections from the rear.

87-90 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 43 Dark blue/Lt green – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 29 Dark Green/Pink – RH O2 sensor
The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a dark green/pink wire) and 43 (RH O2 with a dark blue/pink wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.

91-93 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 43 Red/Black – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 29 Gray/Lt blue – RH O2 sensor
The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a Gray/Lt blue wire) and 43 (RH O2 with a Red/Black wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.


Testing the O2 sensors 94-95 5.0 Mustangs
Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. You'll have to pull the passenger side kick panel off to gain access to the computer connector. Remove the plastic wiring cover to get to the back side of the wiring. Use a safety pin or paper clip to probe the connections from the rear. The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a red/black wire) and 27 (RH O2 with a gray/lt blue wire). Use pin 32 (gray/red wire) to ground the voltmeter. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.


Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter. Do not attempt to measure the resistance of the O2 sensors, it may damage them.

Testing the O2 sensor wiring harness
Most of the common multimeters have a resistance scale. Be sure the O2 sensors are disconnected and measure the resistance from the O2 sensor body harness to the pins on the computer. Using the Low Ohms range (usually 200 Ohms) you should see less than 1.5 Ohms.

87-90 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 43 Dark blue/Lt green – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 29 Dark Green/Pink – RH O2 sensor
Disconnect the connector from the O2 sensor and measure the resistance:
From the Dark blue/Lt green wire in the LH O2 sensor harness and the Dark blue/Lt green wire on the computer pin 43
From the Dark Green/Pink wire on the RH Os sensor harness and the Dark Green/Pink wire on the computer pin 43

91-93 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 43 Red/Black – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 29 Gray/Lt blue – RH O2 sensor
Disconnect the connector from the O2 sensor and measure the resistance:
From the Red/Black wire in the LH O2 sensor harness and the Red/Black wire on the computer pin 43
From the Dark Green/Pink Gray/Lt blue wire on the RH Os sensor harness and the Gray/Lt blue wire on the computer pin 29

94-95 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 29 Red/Black – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 27 Gray/Lt blue – RH O2 sensor
From the Red/Black wire in the LH O2 sensor harness and the Red/Black wire on the computer pin 29
From the Dark Green/Pink Gray/Lt blue wire on the RH Os sensor harness and the Gray/Lt blue wire on the computer pin 27

There is a connector between the body harness and the O2 sensor harness. Make sure the connectors are mated together, the contacts and wiring are not damaged and the contacts are clean and not coated with oil.

The O2 sensor ground (orange wire with a ring terminal on it) is in the wiring harness for the fuel injection wiring. I grounded mine to one of the intake manifold bolts

Make sure you have the proper 3 wire O2 sensors. Only the 4 cylinder cars used a 4 wire sensor, which is not compatible with the V8 wiring harness.

Replace the O2 sensors in pairs if replacement is indicated. If one is weak or bad, the other one probably isn't far behind.

If you get only code 41 and have changed the sensor, look for vacuum leaks. This is especially true if you are having idle problems. The small plastic tubing is very brittle after many years of the heating it receives. Replace the tubing and check the PVC and the hoses connected to it.
A secondary problem with only a code 41 is for cars with an intact smog pump and cats. If the tube on the back of the heads clogs up the driver’s side, all the air from the smog pump gets dumped into one side. This excess air upsets the O2 sensor calibration and can set a false code 41. The cure is to remove the crossover tube and thoroughly clean the insides so that there is no carbon blocking the free flow of air to both heads.

Fuel injectors inoperative, one or more injectors either on all the time or will not squirt.

Revised 27-Jan-2008 to include expanded testing for proper power to injector wiring

Tools needed: Noid light, Multimeter (volts & ohms), 10 MM socket &
extension, & ratchet.

Note: Do all of the steps and do them in order. The results of the
subsequent tests are based on the prior tests being successfully passed.

1.) Each injector has a red power wire to provide power to the injector. Turn the ignition switch to Run and remove
each injector electrical connector and use the multimeter to check for 12 volts on the red wire. Each injector should
have 12 volts +/- .5 volt. More voltage is always better than less voltage. No 12 volts on a singe injector and the wiring
for that injector is broken inside the engine fuel injector harness.

No 12 volts on all injectors:
A.) Check for a bad connection at the 10 pin connector. Check for 12 volts at red wire on the MAF or TAD/TAB
solenoids mounted on the aft side of the passenger strut tower. Good 12 volts
there and you have a wiring problem with the 10 pin connectors or associated wiring.

See the graphic for the location of the 10 pin connectors:


See the graphic for the 10 pin connector circuit layout.

The injector power pin is the VPWR pin in the black 10 pin connector.

B.) Bad ECC power relay. The relay is on top of the computer, it provides power to the fuel injector system.
It is somewhat difficult to get to, since it requires you to remove the computer from its 2 bolt mounting.. If the relay or
socket is bad, you will not have 12 volts on any of the red wires in the engine compartment or to pins
37/57 on the computer. The pins 37/57 are the main power feed to the computer.


C.) Blown fuse link – The blue fuse link for the computer is up near the starter solenoid. Check for no 12 volts
on the ECC relay socket or computer black/orange wires. No 12 volts and the fuse link is blown open. If the fuse link blows,
there is no power for any of the computer functions.

D.) Bad wiring. Broken or damaged red wire to the chassis side of the 10 pin connectors.



Some basics about the computer:
Remember that the computer does not supply power for any
actuator or relay. It provides the ground necessary to complete the
circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the
other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer
switches on that circuit.

2.) Get a noid light from AutoZone or other auto parts store, or even better
a set of them. Make sure they will work on your Mustang prior to purchasing them

This set is from http://www.tooldesk.com/automotive/...Fuel-Injection-Test-Light-Set-Noid-Light.aspx and costs about $30

3.) Use the noid light to determine that the injector pulses and isn’t stuck in the on position.
It you have a set of them install all of them and compare the pulse intensity. Install the noid lights,
turn the ignition switch to Run and crank the engine. A light that doesn’t pulse and stays on has a
short to ground in the computer side of the circuit. That can be either a wiring fault or a failed computer.
If this is the case, remove the passenger side lick panel and disconnect the computer connector.
There is one 10 MM bolt holding it in place. Pull the connector all the way out of the
computer so that you can see the computer side pins.


Use the list from the graphic below to find the fuel injector pins for the injectors that
didn’t turn the noid light off.



4.) Set the multimeter to low scale Ohms and measure between the
computer ground located below the computer and the suspect fuel injector pins. You should
see greater than 100 K Ohms resistance. If you see less than 100 Ohms, the wiring
between the injector and the computer has a short to ground and needs service.
Check the harness and look for damage, kinks or frayed spots.

5.) A single noid light that never turns on is either a wiring fault, or a
failed computer. Either the injector has no DC power or the computer has
failed and cannot switch the injector circuit to ground. Determine if the
injector has power by using the multimeter to check for 12 volts on the red
wire on the suspect injector connector. No 12 volts and you have a wiring fault.
Check the harness and look for damage, kinks or frayed spots. Check the 10
pin salt & pepper shaker connectors for bent pins, corrosion and damage.

If none of the noid lights flash and you have 12 volts at each injector, check
to see that you have good spark. Before you even think about replacing the
computer, see step 6.

Next Check the fuel injector wiring end to end. Each fuel injector has a red
wire (power) and an non-read wire (computer controlled ground). Set the
multimeter to low ohms and measure each non red fuel injector wire from
the fuel injector connector to the matching pin on the computer connector.
You should see less than 2 Ohms. More than that means a bad connection
or bad wiring.


6.) Use an ohmmeter set on the low resistance scale and measure the resistance of
each injector across the two contacts inside the electrical connector. You should
see between 11-16 ohms. More or less than that is a bad injector. Next measure
between either one of the contacts and the metal on the injector body. You should
see greater than 100,000 ohms. Don’t hold the metal probe tips with your bare
hands when you make this measurement. It will give incorrect results if you do.

Once you have determined that the suspect injectors have good power and
good wiring, the computer is the likely suspect, since a ground is required
to complete a circuit and make it function. The computer provides the
ground: if doesn’t, then the noid light will not flash.

7) If you have gotten this far, then the problem is likely ignition
related. Remember the noid test using all of the noid lights? All of them
were supposed to be equally bright. Since you have already tested all the
electrical side of the fuel injector circuit, the one remaining common item is
the pip sensor inside the distributor. A failing pip sensor, damaged shutter
wheel or bent distributor shaft could all cause the pulse delivered to the
injectors to be faulty. A bad pip sensor will cause all the injectors not to fire
and you will have no spark. Dumping the codes will usually show a code 14.


8) Spark plugs indicate one or more cylinders not firing: use the
multimeter to measure the resistance of the spark plug wires. The wires
should measure 2000 ohms per foot of length. A 2 foot wire would be 4000
ohms and a 3 foot wire would be 6000 ohms. Some Taylor and Accel wires
have metal cores and will measure much less: that’s OK.
Next examine the spark plug wires very carefully for burn spots, cracks and
damaged insulation. One good thing to try is to start the engine while the
car is a very dark area, open the hood and look for sparks or blue glow.
They indicate the electricity is leaking out of the spark plug wires.

Thanks to Tmoss & Stang&2birds at www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ for some of the graphics

7991LXnSHO said:

jrichker wrote "The computer sees a lean mixture signal coming from the O2 sensors and tries to compensate by adding more fuel. Many times the end result is an engine that runs pig rich and stinks of unburned fuel."

Actually, it smells MUCH leaner now. (Before it was running rich with the 180 deg thermostat and factory parts). Any reason why the O2 sensors would fail while I worked on the top end of the motor? A test and replace would not be bad at this mileage anyway. THANK YOU for the test procedure on them.

The vac lines are largely new and the rest are checked. New O rings came with injectors and were oiled and installed carefully. I'll replace the PVC grommet. HOW ABOUT LEAKS BETWEEN THE MANIFOLD HALVES??? IS THIS COMMON EVEN WITH A NEW GASKET and clean surfaces? I used a new Fel-pro blue/metal gasket, no sealer, kept in place with two studs while I lined up other bolts. IS A SEALER A GOOD IDEA HERE? I did not check for leaks there while it was together.

Thanks for posting the Fuel Injector Inoperative part. I wish I remembered or knew about the Noid lights before I tore the car apart! Will they do ANY good without putting it all back together? I could unplug the coil wire, but I do not want fuel going in without the car together, right? I can at least check for power and good continuity to the computer while it is apart.

Wires spec out fine and do not arc in the dark.

I have some work to do before I send the injectors back now! Can you also answer the questions in Bold?
Thanks for the help!

Click to expand...

Leaks between the upper and lower intake manifolds are common when the upper has bee mishandled by breaking one of the ears off and the having it welded back on. You should be able to put the gasket in dry (no sealer) and not have any leaks. I usually save the sealer for the ends of the gaskets around the water outlets and the cork or rubber rails on the engine block.

Remove the fuel pump relay from it socket, and you can test the injectors without worrying abut fuel spraying everywhere. On 86-91 cars it is under the driver's seat. On 92 and later cars it is under the MAF on the passenger side fender. Be careful not to confuse it with the A/C WOT relay which is in the same area.

With the engine EFI wiring harness connected to the 10 pin salt & pepper shaker wiring connectors, stick a Noid light in each injector socket. Use a helper to crank the engine with the ignition switch and watch the Noid lights to see that they flash. I would recommend removing the wiring connector with the red/green wire in it from the ignition coil when you do this. It will eliminate any stray electrical sparks or shocks.

Id check where the throttle body mates to the egr spacer as well

1.) Yes.
2.) Yes
3.) Yes


Nothing like a pair of eyes to see what's happening. My next invention will be a wireless mini camera on a stick that sends video to your Stangnet post. It will almost be like being there in person...