TFI Module

It wouldnt be my first guess. DO you have a FP gauge? Prolonged cranking can be a weak fuel pump or ancillary fuel plumbing issue (allowing too much fuel to be returned to the tank).

A quick test is to cycle the key a couple times (letting the fuel pump prime) before cranking for the first time. If it starts immediately every time, I would lean more toward the fuel system. This is all just generic crude info though.

Good luck.

LGSCHMIDTJR said:

Hissin
No FP gauge here but i can try the priming test. Do I just turn the key back and forth a couple of times then fire the car up?
When starting the car I let it crank for a little, then turn the key back, then crank again and it usually fires right up. Like I said it doesn't happen all of the time but is happening more lately. One more thing, It happens in the parking garage here at work, then when i get the car home, I turn it off, and try to start it again and it fires right up.

Thanks again

Laurence

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Laurence, that sounds like a plan. You know how when you turn the key to 'run', you hear the pump prime for a handful of seconds? Let it do that, but instead of going to crank, turn it off and turn it back to 'run'. After a couple primings like that, see if it fires right up.

I only mention it because it is a fairly common issue on pumps that are not new. They get weaker and the check valve in them can bleed pressure off while the car sits for very long. So it takes more priming (which happens while you crank too, hence doing the pre-start priming before trying to crank it, to narrow it down) to get it to catch.

This might not be it (it could be a cold cranking fuel issue or something else), but since the test is so stupid easy to do, it doesnt hurt as a place to start.

Yanking the codes can also be useful. For instance, if the ECT is out of calibration on the lean side (telling the puter that the motor is warm, when in fact it is cold), that can lead to cold-start issues.

Random stuff I would try. Good luck bud.