Not that i know of but vortech does have the directions in PDF that are pretty good. I used them on my first install.Awesome read bud, hey curious is there any How to Install Blower Thread?? Like with pics and description etc??
I been outta the loop for a while, hope all is well brother!!
There is a decent resource section on the new website that has most of the install instructions in PDF format just like you said Jeff!Not that i know of but vortech does have the directions in PDF that are pretty good. I used them on my first install.
Hi so I'm interested in possibly getting a vortech, the new V-3 si black. So you say this version is the more user friendly and more commonly used. Does one version over the next say v1 or v2 in my case make more boost or do these three all make about the same just at different rpm ranges? If I remember correctly you can change out the pulley to gain more boost is this right? Also what are the thoughts on the intercooled versions is this overkill or worth the extra bucks. So I'm no track car, just a weekend streeter and car shows etc. car has been garaged for last 13 years and it's time to bring her back to life. Has common bolt ons on stock 91 block. F-303 with 1.7s. Recently picked up a tubular GT40 upper and lower with c&l 76 cal. For 24lb inj. along with 24lb inj. I remember c&l being a big name back in the day but hear they aren't great but grabbed all that with rear upper and lower control arms for 500 so couldn't pass. In the process of choosing some aluminum heads stuck between a couple. Sorry for long write up.You guys asked for it so here it goes, @85rkyboby @TOOLOW91 @Old Skooler @A5literMan
So let’s talk Vortech for a few minutes here…
There has recently been more than a few questions about some of the Vortech products and what blowers are right for your application. What makes one model different from the others? Hopefully I can explain that all to you here.
Let’s start with the basic different trim levels:
V1 - This blower has a 3.45:1 step up ratio with straight cut gears and is engine oil fed. The V1 series is available in several different compressor trim stages: SCi, Si and T
V2 - This blower has a 3.61:1 step up ration with helical cut gears and is also engine oil fed. This series is considerably quieter due to gear design and provides a slightly steeper step up ratio. The V2 series is also available in several different compressor trim stages: SCi, Si and T
V3 - This blower features the same 3.61:1 step up ratio and helical cut gears as the V2 but is self-lubricating. This has recently been the go to head unit for most street applications due to ease of installation and maintenance. The V3 series is also available in several different compressor stages: SCi and Si
V7 - This blower has the 3.45:1 step up ratio and straight cut gear design similar to the V1 series but with higher speed bearings. This unit is only available in engine oil fed models. The V7 series blowers are available in the Ysi and JT compressor configurations with the JT being only available as a CCW rotation unit.
All of the above mentioned blowers (with the exception of the JT trim) are available in curved and straight discharge models and available in CW and CCW rotation units. All of the above referenced head units feature the same physical bolt patterns and will easily interchange in the same bracket system.
V20 - This blower features a 4.21:1 step up ratio and is only offered in oil fed models. There are several different trim levels from the V27-Ysi to the V28-123 and everything in between. These blowers have a robust bearing case and completely different transmission housing when compared to the rest of the lineup. These are very heavy duty race blowers with very expensive and highly developed bearing packages and can support upward of 4,000+ HP. This will not typically be a blower for the street warrior and will only be found on some of the most serious drag cars and extreme effort street cars.
About compressor stages:
Compressor stages are designed to handle different levels of power and all make power differently when compared to one another. While I will list what they are rated for, we can later discuss where these compressor stages apply best to certain applications.
SCi - The SCi compressor stage is Vortech’s beginning stage and offered in their most base model blower kit for the fox body. While this blower can support up to 725 HP, it is rarely used in that capacity. This blower flow 1050 cfm and is 75% efficient.
Si - This is the most popular compressor stage that you see in the fox body market and really is the go to in my opinion. This compressor will support up to 775 HP, flows 1150 cfm and is 78% efficient. While most people do not run this unit to the maximum level it has a lot of potential and with the proper supporting parts will live up to its expectations.
T - This compressor stage has recently under gone some redevelopment. The T trim of years past will support 825 HP and the newly redesigned compressor, the Ti will support 950 HP. This blower flows 1400 cfm, is 75% efficient and is great choice for your extreme street car build as well as killer track combination.
JT - While this is typically found on the modular motors it still has a place and is worth mentioning. This compressor will support 1,000 HP and flows 1,450 cfm at a 75% efficiency rating.
Ysi - This compressor is the one that has been there and done that and won’t be going anywhere for a long time to come. The Ysi supports 1,200 HP, flows 1,600 cfm and is 78% efficient. This blower is found on quite the number of extreme mustang builds and race cars alike. While final data has not been released there is a new Billet wheel upgrade for the Ysi adding the designation Ysi-b. This upgrade is worth at least 200 HP putting this blower in the 1,400+ HP range and should really be a shining start both on the street and at the track in coming months.
A final few thoughts:
So what makes the V7 and V27 Ysi blowers different? The compressor stages are identical leaving only the bearing housings/transmissions to change.
Are there other blowers out there? Sure thing, Vortech has a long history and has a lot of older units that are out of production still out running on the street. It isn’t unlikely to run into an old A trim or even a ball driven SN89
What about the bigger blowers? They have them and I would be happy to answer any questions that you have or provide more information on them. I only briefly touched on the V20 series since it does not apply to the broad base of street cars and street warriors out there.
I hope this was helpful and look forward to discussing the questions that you guys have. Keep in mind that this is only one part of the market. Paxton a subsidiary of Vortech has their entire line of blowers that we didn’t even touch on. Procharger has a market share in the industry here and to be frank I am not well versed on their product. I would welcome any technical information that anyone could provide on their products or others. Kenny Bell and Whipple, we didn’t forget you either. I would prefer this to be a beginning to some sort of supercharger resource and would like to avoid the Nitrous vs Turbo vs Blower discussions here if possible.
Thanks,
Nick
@madspeed Let me know if this should have been in Tech or if Talk is the right place for this
Hi so I'm interested in possibly getting a vortech, the new V-3 si black. So you say this version is the more user friendly and more commonly used. Does one version over the next say v1 or v2 in my case make more boost or do these three all make about the same just at different rpm ranges? If I remember correctly you can change out the pulley to gain more boost is this right? Also what are the thoughts on the intercooled versions is this overkill or worth the extra bucks. So I'm no track car, just a weekend streeter and car shows etc. car has been garaged for last 13 years and it's time to bring her back to life. Has common bolt ons on stock 91 block. F-303 with 1.7s. Recently picked up a tubular GT40 upper and lower with c&l 76 cal. For 24lb inj. along with 24lb inj. I remember c&l being a big name back in the day but hear they aren't great but grabbed all that with rear upper and lower control arms for 500 so couldn't pass. In the process of choosing some aluminum heads stuck between a couple. Sorry for long write up.
The compressor stages are mentioned in the first post . Boost Is a measurement of restriction . A engine and B engine can have the same blower and pulley combo and A - will make more power on less boost and B make less power on more boost because one engine is more efficient then the next.
The compressor stages are mentioned in the first post . Boost Is a measurement of restriction . A engine and B engine can have the same blower and pulley combo and A - will make more power on less boost and B make less power on more boost because one engine is more efficient then the next.
As I mentioned . The differences in the v1,v2,v3 are the gear sets and the v3 being a self contained units . These units have compressor stages - s , si , sci , t , ti , Ysi trim . You can get an S trim say to make 20 psi but it will not be as efficient as one of the larger trim counter parts such as t trim or a Ysi .
For someone like you with your goals a v1-v3 variation of a s , sci , or si trim will suit you well .
Ditch the c&l junk meter . Get a pro m . 42 lb injectors , 340 Aeromotive pump, adj fuel pressure regulator , and dyno tune . You may also need a msd BTm as a spark timing retard but that depends on what you use to dyno tune the car.
These blowers were originally designed to be efficient enough to not need to be intercooled . That's not to say that it doesn't benefit but it isn't a requirement . The gear set and step ratio is designed for the blower to operate in a matter of keeping the heat down as much as possible in that configuration . There are other blower companies out there that use different step up ratios that make the blower much hotter at the same speeds and require the intercooler .
On a combo like yours with a stock cyl head with a s trim compressor I'd think you'd make somewhere between 380-420 at the tire depending on boost pressure .
Hope this helps .
Cool man thanks for all the input. So my question is I've seen the TF 44lb ev1 series then there are the 47lb fords ev6's with adapters. Does it matter which style and as for the pro m's I've looked up on lmr how do I go about matching for that size bc the biggest I've seen was for 30 something lb injectors. Is there a better sight to go with? Also do the complete Kits for vortech come with the necessary fuel stuff ex: regulator/ fuel pump etc or is that something I would have to also buy extra. Maybe I'm thinking of a turbo kit I saw that came with all the extra goods idk. What sort of set up do you have? Just asking bc I want to see what heads and top end stuff you got. Would you say picking up fords x306 aluminum heads is a good choice to go along with my GT40 tubular and 1.7s since they are pedestal so I wouldn't have to switch. Or should I go with the TFs with upgraded springs on lmr for 1300,The compressor stages are mentioned in the first post . Boost Is a measurement of restriction . A engine and B engine can have the same blower and pulley combo and A - will make more power on less boost and B make less power on more boost because one engine is more efficient then the next.
As I mentioned . The differences in the v1,v2,v3 are the gear sets and the v3 being a self contained units . These units have compressor stages - s , si , sci , t , ti , Ysi trim . You can get an S trim say to make 20 psi but it will not be as efficient as one of the larger trim counter parts such as t trim or a Ysi .
For someone like you with your goals a v1-v3 variation of a s , sci , or si trim will suit you well .
Ditch the c&l junk meter . Get a pro m . 42 lb injectors , 340 Aeromotive pump, adj fuel pressure regulator , and dyno tune . You may also need a msd BTm as a spark timing retard but that depends on what you use to dyno tune the car.
These blowers were originally designed to be efficient enough to not need to be intercooled . That's not to say that it doesn't benefit but it isn't a requirement . The gear set and step ratio is designed for the blower to operate in a matter of keeping the heat down as much as possible in that configuration . There are other blower companies out there that use different step up ratios that make the blower much hotter at the same speeds and require the intercooler .
On a combo like yours with a stock cyl head with a s trim compressor I'd think you'd make somewhere between 380-420 at the tire depending on boost pressure .
Hope this helps .
Cool man thanks for all the input. So my question is I've seen the TF 44lb ev1 series then there are the 47lb fords ev6's with adapters. Does it matter which style and as for the pro m's I've looked up on lmr how do I go about matching for that size bc the biggest I've seen was for 30 something lb injectors. Is there a better sight to go with? Also do the complete Kits for vortech come with the necessary fuel stuff ex: regulator/ fuel pump etc or is that something I would have to also buy extra. Maybe I'm thinking of a turbo kit I saw that came with all the extra goods idk. What sort of set up do you have? Just asking bc I want to see what heads and top end stuff you got. Would you say picking up fords x306 aluminum heads is a good choice to go along with my GT40 tubular and 1.7s since they are pedestal so I wouldn't have to switch. Or should I go with the TFs with upgraded springs on lmr for 1300,
Keep my F cam and swap to 1.6s for Stud mount?
This was exceptional . All the info should go in to maybe a combined post as a sticky @Noobz347
Procharger variable boost deal. They made some type of electronic boost control that was supposed to be so you didnt have to swap pulley to up the boost. I dont think it ever really took off though.
Talk to me about his one Goose. So far, I've not seen a single install.
@TOOLOW91 probably has motors laying around that he can test one of these on.
You should create a thread in general talk with your question. Honestly 12# might be too much for your stock bottom end. Take it to the dyno to get numbers. What kind of tuning was done? With your mods and 12 lbs of boost you're getting close to block splitting power. If you have a safe tune then your OK.Hi guys,
Finally pulled the trigger and purchased a used V2 S trim in great shape. Kit comes with “heavy duty race bracket” that includes smog pump delete pulley. Pullies it’s running 3.1 Reichard and 6.75 crank, also has a 4 inch power pipe and came with Lucas 42lb injectors 95Mm Pmas maf and Aeromotive 340 fuel pump. I was told the kit was making about 12lbs I’d boost.
I currently have a built motor roughly 10 years old though and around 35k on it specs are as follows -
Factory 5.0 Block, Stock Forged Pistons with High Tension rings, honed bores.
ARP rod , main bolts and head studs
Stock 5.0 oil pump
Balanced bottom end
Comp Cams custom cam 218in/220ex degree .512/.512 lift/114 lobe centres
Ford Motorsports roller lifters
Edelbrock Performer Aluminum heads 1.94/1.60 valves
Chambers reshaped and blended at valve seats
Multiangle valve job
Cut for Felpro wirelock head gaskets
Intake ports matched to Felpro 1250 intake gasket
Exhaust Port walls blended from cnc port opening into runners
Extrude Honed Ported
Comp Cams dual valve springs
Crane HD pushrods
Ford Motorsports Cobra intake manifold
Ford Motorsports 65mm Throttle body
Where I’m torn is if I should delete the smog pump with the bracket or remove that portion of the bracket and keep it?
Also how do you guys feel about throwing 12lbs at that motor ? Everything else on the car is built beside the WC t5...I’m planning a TKO next year.
Haven’t had it tuned yet - planning on installing everything second week of Jan and taking it to a local mustang tuner.You should create a thread in general talk with your question. Honestly 12# might be too much for your stock bottom end. Take it to the dyno to get numbers. What kind of tuning was done? With your mods and 12 lbs of boost you're getting close to block splitting power. If you have a safe tune then your OK.
Hi guys,
Finally pulled the trigger and purchased a used V2 S trim in great shape. Kit comes with “heavy duty race bracket” that includes smog pump delete pulley. Pullies it’s running 3.1 Reichard and 6.75 crank, also has a 4 inch power pipe and came with Lucas 42lb injectors 95Mm Pmas maf and Aeromotive 340 fuel pump. I was told the kit was making about 12lbs I’d boost.
I currently have a built motor roughly 10 years old though and around 35k on it specs are as follows -
Factory 5.0 Block, Stock Forged Pistons with High Tension rings, honed bores.
ARP rod , main bolts and head studs
Stock 5.0 oil pump
Balanced bottom end
Comp Cams custom cam 218in/220ex degree .512/.512 lift/114 lobe centres
Ford Motorsports roller lifters
Edelbrock Performer Aluminum heads 1.94/1.60 valves
Chambers reshaped and blended at valve seats
Multiangle valve job
Cut for Felpro wirelock head gaskets
Intake ports matched to Felpro 1250 intake gasket
Exhaust Port walls blended from cnc port opening into runners
Extrude Honed Ported
Comp Cams dual valve springs
Crane HD pushrods
Ford Motorsports Cobra intake manifold
Ford Motorsports 65mm Throttle body
Where I’m torn is if I should delete the smog pump with the bracket or remove that portion of the bracket and keep it?
Also how do you guys feel about throwing 12lbs at that motor ? Everything else on the car is built beside the WC t5...I’m planning a TKO next year.
Youll need the smog delete pulley , then use the supplied bracket in the kit that's almost shaped like a J to connect from the bottom of the smog delete pulley to the lower hole on your alternator.
Every engine is different . Some are more efficient then others. You may see 10 psi with the identical pulleys due to a better flowing intake and head setup. You may see 14 because your stuff is more restrictive the the P.O . Either way i am sure youll make great power while keeping it safe enough to have some fun.
Thanks....my gutted H pipe currently has the hose plug in should I just cap that off?
Think it's a better bet holding off on purchasing the 3.3 pulley and seeing what the 3.1 does first?
Thanks buddy I appreciate the input. I also have UD pullies so I think I need to order a set of regulars from LMRI think the 3.1 would be ok with the 6.7 lower on your setup .
Yes you can just put a cap or weld that part of the pipe shut .
Thanks buddy I appreciate the input. I also have UD pullies so I think I need to order a set of regulars from LMR
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