Progress Thread The "grátis" 1966 Coupe - final sheet metal repairs

RaggedGT

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT

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Feb 17, 2019

#101

• Feb 17, 2019

• #101

Fill in the key switch hole,and put in pass key start button

 

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horse sence

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Feb 17, 2019

#102

• Feb 17, 2019

• #102

I have an old rotted 64 1/2 i will see if tbe key area is good ,i will check tomorrow

 

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02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

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Feb 17, 2019

#103

• Feb 17, 2019

• #103

RaggedGT said:

Fill in the key switch hole,and put in pass key start button

Click to expand...

Haha! Honestly, I hate the push-button start most cars have these days. I prefer to turn a key.

 

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horse sence

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Feb 18, 2019

#104

• Feb 18, 2019

• #104

Key switch is still in place on my junker 64 1/2 so the opening must still be good if you need it

 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

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Feb 18, 2019

#105

• Feb 18, 2019

• #105

horse sence said:

Key switch is still in place on my junker 64 1/2 so the opening must still be good if you need it

Click to expand...

Awesome. I think I probably will. It will save me the cost of buying a dash. How about the HVAC controls opening?

Being a body guy, do you think someone with some skill might be able to fix the opening on my car's dash?

 

horse sence

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Feb 18, 2019

#106

• Feb 18, 2019

• #106

I have patched several radio openings ,not to hard to do

 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

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Feb 20, 2019

#107

• Feb 20, 2019

• #107

I'm thinking that a good way to deal with the trunk floor damage would just be to purchase a new driver's trunk floor and use it to patch the damaged area. Even the Dynacorn panels aren't that expensive.

Made a couple of purchases yesterday. I'm trying to get a quote to media blast the car. It'll be a dustless process that will be easy on the metal and will be fine to strip the body panels.

 

Last edited: Feb 20, 2019

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rustaddict

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Feb 21, 2019

#108

• Feb 21, 2019

• #108

One cant help but to look at that mangled key switch hole and wonder what in the world someone was thinking. It might be possible to straighten the area around the heater controls. Or you could slice it at the area between the steering column and dash on one end, between the cluster hole and the radio hole, and across the ash tray and graft that whole section in with minimal welding and bodywork.

 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

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Feb 22, 2019

#109

• Feb 22, 2019

• #109

So the local company that did dustless blasting doesn't appear to be in business anymore. Their website is still up, but their facebook page is not and no one is answering their phone or returning my calls. There is a place in Dallas that does it that is mobile, but it would add $1500 to the normal cost for them to drive up here and blast it for me.

I think I'll just get that DA sander I have on my Amazon wish list and get a small sand blaster to go along with it. I'll blast the nooks and crannys myself and use the DA on the body panels.

What a disappointment.

 

S

shoelessjoe75

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Feb 22, 2019

#110

• Feb 22, 2019

• #110

I put my 67 on an auto twirler cart. Mounts in the rear spring perchs and the lower control arm areas of the car. Moves around easily. Bunch of different company's sell it.

 

horse sence

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Feb 23, 2019

#111

• Feb 23, 2019

• #111

I cut out the key switch area ,if you need it PM an address and i will send it to you

 

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02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

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Feb 23, 2019

#112

• Feb 23, 2019

• #112

@Davedacarpainter @horse sence What grit do you typically use when you strip a panel to bare metal with a DA? Is there any other prep you do before primer?

 

Davedacarpainter

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...

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Feb 23, 2019

#113

• Feb 23, 2019

• #113

02 281 GT said:

@Davedacarpainter @horse sence What grit do you typically use when you strip a panel to bare metal with a DA? Is there any other prep you do before primer?

Click to expand...

With a da? I’ll start with 80 grit. Don’t remove all of the paint with that, get to where the e-coat is mostly visible, then finish stripping with 180.

Don’t put your hands on the bare metal, it’s even best to use clean gloves on your hands when you start hitting the metal.

Then epoxy primer or etch primer. Don’t etch then epoxy primer, they don’t work well together. Don’t delay long on coating it with one of those. Bare metal should be treated like a baby.

 

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02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

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Feb 23, 2019

#114

• Feb 23, 2019

• #114

Davedacarpainter said:

With a da? I’ll start with 80 grit. Don’t remove all of the paint with that, get to where the e-coat is mostly visible, then finish stripping with 180.

Don’t put your hands on the bare metal, it’s even best to use clean gloves on your hands when you start hitting the metal.

Then epoxy primer or etch primer. Don’t etch then epoxy primer, they don’t work well together. Don’t delay long on coating it with one of those. Bare metal should be treated like a baby.

Click to expand...

Thanks. So sand it and primer straight away? Do you wipe it down with anything like mineral spirits or a tack cloth beforehand?

 

Davedacarpainter

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...

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Feb 23, 2019

#115

• Feb 23, 2019

• #115

02 281 GT said:

Thanks. So sand it and primer straight away? Do you wipe it down with anything like mineral spirits or a tack cloth beforehand?

Click to expand...

Only with wax and grease remover if it got something on it. Just blow it off while dusting with a clean rag first.

 

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horse sence

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Feb 24, 2019

#116

• Feb 24, 2019

• #116

Even a DA will cause heat and warp metal if you dig in to hard ,like Dave said ,dont try to remove everything at once . The biggest problem i see with a DA is when these guys sand a car with a lot of paint and they cup the paint by trying to just remove scratches ,it actually creats dug out spots in the paint and looks like dents ,or creates waves in the old paint and when they paint over it looks terriable . Remove all the paint but take your time doing it

 

Davedacarpainter

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...

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Feb 24, 2019

#117

• Feb 24, 2019

• #117

It will take me about 1.5 hours to properly strip a hood with a da.

Like horsence mentioned, don't spend a lot of time in one area, you could warp the metal. Take about a 1.5 to two foot square section at a time. Sand the whole area down evenly, don't just dig through the paint. Try to keep your da flat while doing this.

 

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02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

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Feb 24, 2019

#118

• Feb 24, 2019

• #118

Thanks for the tips! I just ordered a DA. Will get some sand paper once it arrives and we’ll go from there.

 

Cool Beans

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Feb 27, 2019

#119

• Feb 27, 2019

• #119

Never ran into any issues with it when I redid my old 87 F-150, but I used furniture stripper to removed the bulk of the paint then sanded. Was planning to do so again on my Mustang. Less dusty at least...

 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

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Feb 28, 2019

#120

• Feb 28, 2019

• #120

@horse sence @Davedacarpainter Sandblasting large panels such as the roof, hood, fenders, and quarters is out, but can I blast things like the cowl without warping metal?