The never ending oil leak...Advice?

Venom351R

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Apr 27, 2002
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My TFSR intake was leaking ever since It was put on the car. I finally got fed up with it and replaced it with a Victor 5.8. The car has not been driven much with this new intake on until tues when I got it back from having the clutch installed. Since tuesday Ive put 335 miles on it breaking in the clutch and today I smelled what I thought was burning oil. When I got home I stuck it in the garage and after about 30 mins there was two oil spots on the floor. One was about the size of a half dollar and the other the size of a quarter.

The leak is not as bad as it was before but its the fact that its still leaking and its coming from the exact same spot as when the TFSR was on it. The TFSR was redone 4 times and leaked after everytime and now the Victor is leaking although not nearly as much. What can be causing this issue? Its obviously not the intake its self. Its leaking on the very back corner of the passenger side.
 
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It never leaked w/ the Cobra intake that came on the car when I bought it. Ever since then Ive had lower intake leaking issues. The surface of the heads were spotless when the lower was installed again. Scraped them clean with a razor blade and went over it numerous times with Acetone




 

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using a big black bead of RVT. I dont think its the Valve covers bc I can reach back where the RVT is on the back of the intake and feel oil there. Unless its moving over from the valve cover to the corner of the intake
 
I checked the valve covers on both sides, both had loose bolts and I tightned them up but I dont really think its coming from there. Under the bead of RVT you can see and feel oil on the block.

Do you think it should be redone w/ a gasket and RVT?
 
Hmmmm

This has worked for me EVERY single time.

Use the front and rear gaskets, Apply sealer to both sides. Use liberal amount in the corners. go threw torque sequence a million times. This means after first torquing everything to 14lbs...start at the 1st bolt and repeat sequence till all are at 14. (guarantee the 1st bolt is loose again) then 20, then 25. Then let it sit before starting at least overnight.

Also make sure you're properly venting the crank case. Blocked PCV builds pressure and the gases will rip right threw that rear seal.


Added: Also lightly Sand the metal on the front and rear areas of the intake and block. It will help the sealer stick.

Chris
 
I do basically the same method. However, I never torque the intake down. I just go hand tight with a 1/4" ratchet. Torquing the intake can cause the heads to lift.

Kurt
 
The block has been scuffed on both ends so the RVT should be biting well on it. I dont know if I'll bother to redo it soon or not. Depends on my track times b/c If I decide to get bigger heads then Im going to tear it all down anyway and no point in redoing it now, then taking everything all off again at the end of oct.

I re did the valve cover bolts, all are tight now and I put some extra RVT along the bead that is on the back of the intake. Maybe it will at least slow it down some, like I said its not leaking like it did before but its still leaking.

Also there is no PCV with this intake.
 
The block has been scuffed on both ends so the RVT should be biting well on it. I dont know if I'll bother to redo it soon or not. Depends on my track times b/c If I decide to get bigger heads then Im going to tear it all down anyway and no point in redoing it now, then taking everything all off again at the end of oct.

I re did the valve cover bolts, all are tight now and I put some extra RVT along the bead that is on the back of the intake. Maybe it will at least slow it down some, like I said its not leaking like it did before but its still leaking.

Also there is no PCV with this intake.



I wouldn't pull it off... just keep an eye on it and make sure its not dripping down to your clutch/flywheel
 
what are you using for crankcase ventilation? It is possible your ventilation isn't enough and causing a leak like mention in this thread. Do not use a gasket and rtv. RTV alone is enough. I am sure you did the install correctly. Once you reach the final torque spec (20-22ft/lbs with lube on the threads) you need to keep going over every bolt until the wrench just clicks.

Fwiw, I was using 2 breather filters off each valve cover fill tube (tfs covers/tube) and they leaked badly so I ended up running 5/8" hose off each fill tube to a vented breather tank.

It is also possible that your loose valve cover bolts were the problem or the gasket is bad.
 
It was still leaking after the minor tweaks on the valve covers and the extra RVT on the back.

Im running two open breathers for ventilation. The intake bolts appear to be nice and tight, I checked the ones in the back. Is it possible for the valve covers to leak and for it to make its way up behind the intake and on the top of the block so that it looks like the lower intake is leaking out through the RVT?
 
Its possible the v.c's/gaskets are the problem. You should see a trail though if it were and you'd feel oil around them. Your ventilation is fine. Do your breathers leak? I wasn't able to even go 1 mile on my car before the breathers were oil soaked and leaking onto the header :(
 
not to be picky or anything but it is RTV, not RVT. just saying.

i have a small leak at the front of mine. it is done with just RTV too. i cleaned it up and smeared some more on it and it is better, but still leaks a little. i am planning an upgrade to a victor junior, so i am going to leave it like that for now. when i do the upgrade, i intend to use rubber gaskets like what kurt mentioned