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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

thinking of going carb'd (another one)

  • Thread starter Thread starter dragnazz5.0
  • Start date Start date Jun 21, 2006

dragnazz5.0

My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0
Nov 19, 2005
815
5
18
mooresville, nc
Jun 21, 2006
#1
  • Jun 21, 2006
  • #1
well its not gonna happen any time soon but im just starting to think about it and do a little research. i dont want to hear any of this "dont do it, the efi is much better" i know its better, but in a year this car wont get driven every day and it will be turned into a track only car. i just like the idea of a carb because there arent nearly as many variables as efi. i know i wouldnt get as good of gas mileage but that doesnt really matter to me. i want to hear from the carb guys and see what they think and how they like their setups and some opinions on what intake and carb would be good for my setup. thanks
 
R

R2D2

Jun 21, 2006
#2
  • Jun 21, 2006
  • #2
I been carb'd for 20+ years. I would never go efi, just look at 5-6 forums and the dozens and dozens of efi problem threads, it's always something wrong, I got no time for that hassle. What do you want to know? What's your setup?
 

dragnazz5.0

My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0
Nov 19, 2005
815
5
18
mooresville, nc
Jun 21, 2006
#3
  • Jun 21, 2006
  • #3
setup is cleaned up stock heads, trick flow cam and 1.7 rockers. im really just wondering if i could do this in a weekend if i decided to do it sooner than i planned. i know its a lot of work and hassle to start off but im in the same boat as you. there is too much hassle to get an efi car running right. it seems every time i get the car running right it will run fine for a couple days and than go back to running crappy.
 
R

R2D2

Jun 21, 2006
#4
  • Jun 21, 2006
  • #4
performer rpm-weiand stealth intake and a 650 holley
 

dragnazz5.0

My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0
Nov 19, 2005
815
5
18
mooresville, nc
Jun 21, 2006
#5
  • Jun 21, 2006
  • #5
thats about what i was thinking. it would be perfect if i found someone who had a good setup but wanted to go efi....than we could just help each other out and swap on a weekend. but im not that lucky.
 

Dark Knight

Founding Member
Feb 1, 2000
2,578
0
0
Chandler, Az.
Jun 21, 2006
#6
  • Jun 21, 2006
  • #6
A few things to consider... fuel pump, need a different one, or a regulator. Ignition, you wont have the computer to adjust timing etc..

Go here..
http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/efi-carb/efi-carb.htm
and check out http://www.carbdford.com/
 

dragnazz5.0

My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0
Nov 19, 2005
815
5
18
mooresville, nc
Jun 21, 2006
#7
  • Jun 21, 2006
  • #7
Dark Knight said:
A few things to consider... fuel pump, need a different one, or a regulator. Ignition, you wont have the computer to adjust timing etc..

Go here..
http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/efi-carb/efi-carb.htm
and check out http://www.carbdford.com/
Click to expand...


thanks for the links man
 

dragnazz5.0

My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0
Nov 19, 2005
815
5
18
mooresville, nc
Jun 21, 2006
#8
  • Jun 21, 2006
  • #8
sbftech said:
I been carb'd for 20+ years. I would never go efi, just look at 5-6 forums and the dozens and dozens of efi problem threads, it's always something wrong, I got no time for that hassle. What do you want to know? What's your setup?
Click to expand...

whats the deal with the alternator? ive never really paid attention to where the harness goes for that. would i have to do a one wire alternator or can i just keep the stock one?

edit: i was just looking at some carbs online and why in gods name are they so expensive? holleys are really expensive and edelbrock carbs arent that bad....but good lord i didnt think they were over 300 bucks. i know there are going to be some but everyone i saw was over 300

sorry for the stupid questions and long post but im totally new to the carb idea. whats better, manual or electric choke? single feed or dual feed? mechanical fuel pump or electric? im kind of trying to do this on a budget and wish i had another car so i could just sell all my stuff and use that money to pay for the carb and stuff.
 

dragnazz5.0

My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0
Nov 19, 2005
815
5
18
mooresville, nc
Jun 22, 2006
#9
  • Jun 22, 2006
  • #9
ttt
 

bluevenom867

I will have images of molesting stuffed animals in
Dec 15, 2003
1,704
1
0
St.Petersburg,FL
Jun 23, 2006
#10
  • Jun 23, 2006
  • #10
Go with a Holley 650 vacuum secondary w/ an electric choke,or the 670 Street Avenger.

If you like BG,the Road and Speed demon carb are also good choises,but I believe the are a little more than the Holleys,not sure though.I heard the Edelbrocks dont flow as well as they are rated,possable they may be rated at 3Hg of vacuum (standard is 1.5Hg),I dont know, but if thats the case go with the 700 Edelbrock.

edit:The holleys and BG's will be "double pumpers",or dual in-let,thats what you want.

Holley models: 670 Street Avenger http://www.holley.com/0-80670.asp
650 double pumper http://www.holley.com/0-80783C.asp

Barry Grant: http://www.barrygrant.com/demon/default.aspx?page=11
http://www.barrygrant.com/demon/default.aspx?page=9

Edelbrock: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/carbs_acc/performer.shtml
 

jrichker

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In Remembrance. Thank you for your contributions
Mar 10, 2000
27,512
2,813
234
Dublin GA
Jun 23, 2006
#11
  • Jun 23, 2006
  • #11
sbftech said:
I been carb'd for 20+ years. I would never go efi, just look at 5-6 forums and the dozens and dozens of efi problem threads, it's always something wrong, I got no time for that hassle. What do you want to know? What's your setup?
Click to expand...
Wait till emissions testing comes to where you live, or you move to someplace where it is mandatory. Then you can join crazypete in singing the "My carb won't pass emissions testing" blues.

I have had my Mustang for 14+ years and the computer and EFI system have been the most reliable things on it.

The main problem with EFI is that people hack at it without understanding how it really works. Ignorance breaks all kinds of things...
 

dragnazz5.0

My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0
Nov 19, 2005
815
5
18
mooresville, nc
Jun 23, 2006
#12
  • Jun 23, 2006
  • #12
i dont have emissions anymore...they got rid of the sniffer test jan 1 of this year in all counties. so im not worried about it. and i know the efi is more reliable and better but i just have so many problems with it. im not sure if its just me thinking something is wrong or what. but i figured that im just gonna go back to the basics. ill eventually be taking the power steering off as well. i guess i just like old technology, or lack there of, better
 
R

R2D2

Jun 23, 2006
#13
  • Jun 23, 2006
  • #13
jrichker said:
Wait till emissions testing comes to where you live, or you move to someplace where it is mandatory. Then you can join crazypete in singing the "My carb won't pass emissions testing" blues.

I have had my Mustang for 14+ years and the computer and EFI system have been the most reliable things on it.

The main problem with EFI is that people hack at it without understanding how it really works. Ignorance breaks all kinds of things...
Click to expand...
weve had emmissions for decades, I run antique plates so it doesn't affect me. All my vehicles were originally carb'd. keep your injection I will keep my tunnel ram holleys
 

crazypete

All my crevices are greased.
Oct 22, 2004
930
4
18
Arlington, MA
Jun 23, 2006
#14
  • Jun 23, 2006
  • #14
jrichker said:
Wait till emissions testing comes to where you live, or you move to someplace where it is mandatory. Then you can join crazypete in singing the "My carb won't pass emissions testing" blues.
Click to expand...

Just cause something is not easy doesnt make it not worth doing. Besides, if the epa smog nazis have their way, in a few years, older cars will be subjected to more and more stringent emissions laws until they choke everyone into buying new cars every 5-7 years.

I ran my efi on an 87 and a 91 and it was the most unreliable system ever. My 87's EEC-4 died twice, countless O2 sensors on both machines, the 91's MAF toasted and so did the EEC. Both cars left me by the side of the road countless times.

With my carb almost perfect reliabilty. It doesnt always run right...but it always runs. Sure I've had a few mishaps too but every time I "break down by the side of the road", I walk up front and jiggle some levers and spray some carb cleaner and am driving away 10 minutes later.

Exhaust leak on an EFI....kiss your drivability goodby. Exhaust leak on a carbed car? It doesnt care.

Got a flashy new cam and heads.....get ready to spend $$$ on injectors and throttle body and MAF and maybe a chip or tweecer. Same thing on a carb......$7 worth of jets and turning a few screws.

Something breaks on an EFI.....big $$$. Something goes wrong on a carb...a couple $5 springs or gaskets. Or just repalce your entire fuel metering system (the carb) for $300.

EFI is nice but expensive and quite frankly....if something doesnt work on a carb, I can understand it. It's a box with gas in it and levers and springs. When something stops working on an efi.....who knows why. You get to query some codes and start replacing expensive sensors and components only to find out 3 weeks later that it was a loose wire on a harness tucked away under the dash.

As far as drivability, apart from my "boo hoo, MA shafted me on emissions", I have never had any driveability problems that I couldnt fix in an afternoon easy. I drive this thing in cold new england winters with cold starts and I have no complaints. Thats what a choke is for.

Bottom line:

1. Carb is cheap, understandable, simple and acessible and get you 90-95% of the way there. When it works, it's good and when it doesnt, it still works somewhat.

2. Efi gets you 98-99% of the way there, is complex and expensive and diffficult to understand. When it works properly, it's a jewel of driveability and power. When it doesnt work, it really doesnt work (this is what got me).

Try the carb but keep your efi setup in a box. Carb conversion can easily be done for under $1000 and under $500 with used parts.
 
R

R2D2

Jun 23, 2006
#15
  • Jun 23, 2006
  • #15
crazypete said:
Just cause something is not easy doesnt make it not worth doing. Besides, if the epa smog nazis have their way, in a few years, older cars will be subjected to more and more stringent emissions laws until they choke everyone into buying new cars every 5-7 years.

I ran my efi on an 87 and a 91 and it was the most unreliable system ever. My 87's EEC-4 died twice, countless O2 sensors on both machines, the 91's MAF toasted and so did the EEC. Both cars left me by the side of the road countless times.

With my carb almost perfect reliabilty. It doesnt always run right...but it always runs. Sure I've had a few mishaps too but every time I "break down by the side of the road", I walk up front and jiggle some levers and spray some carb cleaner and am driving away 10 minutes later.

Exhaust leak on an EFI....kiss your drivability goodby. Exhaust leak on a carbed car? It doesnt care.

Got a flashy new cam and heads.....get ready to spend $$$ on injectors and throttle body and MAF and maybe a chip or tweecer. Same thing on a carb......$7 worth of jets and turning a few screws.

Something breaks on an EFI.....big $$$. Something goes wrong on a carb...a couple $5 springs or gaskets. Or just repalce your entire fuel metering system (the carb) for $300.

EFI is nice but expensive and quite frankly....if something doesnt work on a carb, I can understand it. It's a box with gas in it and levers and springs. When something stops working on an efi.....who knows why. You get to query some codes and start replacing expensive sensors and components only to find out 3 weeks later that it was a loose wire on a harness tucked away under the dash.

As far as drivability, apart from my "boo hoo, MA shafted me on emissions", I have never had any driveability problems that I couldnt fix in an afternoon easy. I drive this thing in cold new england winters with cold starts and I have no complaints. Thats what a choke is for.

Bottom line:

1. Carb is cheap, understandable, simple and acessible and get you 90-95% of the way there. When it works, it's good and when it doesnt, it still works somewhat.

2. Efi gets you 98-99% of the way there, is complex and expensive and diffficult to understand. When it works properly, it's a jewel of driveability and power. When it doesnt work, it really doesnt work (this is what got me).

Try the carb but keep your efi setup in a box. Carb conversion can easily be done for under $1000 and under $500 with used parts.
Click to expand...
 

85ragtop

BTW, I like dudes.
10 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
823
475
123
NC
Jun 23, 2006
#16
  • Jun 23, 2006
  • #16
Hey drag, if you are ever in Winston I can let you see what I did. I have done a few EFI to carb. I may have some parts.
 

dragnazz5.0

My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0
Nov 19, 2005
815
5
18
mooresville, nc
Jun 23, 2006
#17
  • Jun 23, 2006
  • #17
85ragtop said:
Hey drag, if you are ever in Winston I can let you see what I did. I have done a few EFI to carb. I may have some parts.
Click to expand...


cool, ill keep that in mind. i might have found a guy that is wanting to switch from carb to efi so we'll see if that works out. thanks for the help guys. and crazypete....that pretty much sums up exactly what ive been thinking

edit: does anyone think this can be done in a weekend? start on a friday night and pull everything off and swap stuff on saturday and than put everything back together. if not ill have to wait till my buddy gets his car back together so he can drive us to class. im sure i could do it in a weekend if its not a huge ordeal but i just want to know what everyone else thinks. thanks
 

81maroonhatch

New Member
Jun 13, 2006
2
0
0
wichita
Jun 23, 2006
#18
  • Jun 23, 2006
  • #18
it may be a little longer than a week but it is worth it to go carbd
 

crazypete

All my crevices are greased.
Oct 22, 2004
930
4
18
Arlington, MA
Jun 23, 2006
#19
  • Jun 23, 2006
  • #19
The main parts of the swap can be done in a weekend but getting it to actually run like a car will take a week or two.
 
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