This Darn Fuse!

chrismillion

Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Mar 4, 2004
259
0
16
1 15A

-Turn signal Lamps
-Back-up lamps
-Airbag module
-DRL module
-Overdrive cancel
-Brake shift solenoid
-Heated backlite relay coil
-Convert. top relay coil
-Illum. entry module (shut off)

i've searched for this info very hard. i've checked my convertible motor in the back, my turn lights and the stuff under the console and i've yet to come up with anything. this fuse started blowing after i went down a bumpy dirt road :nonono: and it sometimes blow when i immediately put a new fuse in or when i start to drive away. help please cause i'm tired of sticking my hand out the window to turn. there is also a high current fuse under thr hood that also controls all of the above and its 40 amps. i wonder why that one hasn't blowed :shrug: . thanks chris
 
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it sounds like a bad connection/short. you will probably have to goose the wiring to try and find it.

i disable circuits to narrow stuff like that down.

good luck.
 
I agree with HISSIN50 here. Narrow it down. From what you describe it has to be a short. Not looking at your car, I am gonna say the Fuse under the hood is called a slow-blow.(Correct me if I am wrong someone.) It will only pop when there is a short that is constant. The 15 is an instant open to keep things from getting burnt. (Thank God for fuses.) :D Blown a few of them in my days of trial and error. :rolleyes:

Other thought is, the 15amp blows first due to lower amperage, and the 40 doesn't get the chance. I doubt it though.

Anyhow, it sucks, but trial and error. Does it happen with your lights off? If not, the problem may be with you lights. Hopefully you just get lucky. Good luck, hope you get it figured out.
 
chrismillion said:

They are perfectly correct. That is the only way to trace an electrical short.

Get a resetable 12v 15amp fuse, so you can troubleshoot the system. Look at the wiring diagram that runs through that fuse. The haynes manual should have it blown up.

Take a 20ft wire and hook it up to the negative terminal to your battery. Start at each component, lets say a turn signal. Hook up the positive test lead on your multimeter to the positive wire on the turn signal. Then hook up your negative test lead of the multimeter to the 20ft ground wire. Then set your tester to continuity (beeps when you have continuity). Keep testing all the positive wires on all of the components for continuity. Once you have continuity somewhere, verify that the wire you are testing is indeed 12V positive, and on that fuse, and that is your short.

If you test a ground wire, you will get the beep. So you need to make sure the wire you are testing is a 12V positive.

Once you find the short, trace the wire all the way back to it's source. Look for any bare wire. You may have a component that is broken, and fused together somehow, so that could be your fuse. Remove that component out of the system and test the wire again. If that fixes it, the component is shorted out and replace it.
Scott