Throttle HELP??

[nos707]

Hi Guys,

I have this problem! It happend once before, but now its all the time!

If I stamp the throttle hard...nothing happends!

If I push into it, it accelerated hard, but If I try to stamp the pedal fast...nothing!

Revs just drop to idle untill I back off and push into it again!

Im thinking TPS needs re-setting??

What do you think?? :SNSign:

 

[cjones]

what is the TPS reading at close throttle and at WOT??

does it cutout anytime you are at WOT??

 

[nos707]

I haven't checked the TPS voltage yet!

It only happens when I stamp on the pedal fast! If I push into it its fine!

 

[nos707]

Ok, so checked the voltage....I clicked the ignition ON and then checked using the green wire as live, and earthed off a bolt on the body.

Voltage was 1.7v. loosened the 2x screws and rotated the TPS till I got .99v.

Started the car but ran rough!! The idle had dropped off from 1100rpm to around 700rpm, and Wouldn't rev!

But if I then adjust the idle back to 1100rpm, wont that then change the TPS reading again??

Am I doing somethig wrong??

Do I have to set the idle/throttle body first?

What do you think guys??

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is less than $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/p-7208-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx– It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

 

[nos707]

Hi jrichker,

The problem is i am using engine management with a new ECU.

So this probably wont give me any codes even though the stock ECU is still pluged in and working with the new one!

Do I have to set the butterfly in the throttle body first, then adjust the TPS?

Or am I doing something wrong?

I checked the voltage with the ignition on so the fuel pump was buzzing, was that right?

 

[bandmc]

New MAF?

 

[vristang]

Hi jrichker,

The problem is i am using engine management with a new ECU.

So this probably wont give me any codes even though the stock ECU is still pluged in and working with the new one!

Do I have to set the butterfly in the throttle body first, then adjust the TPS?

Or am I doing something wrong?

I checked the voltage with the ignition on so the fuel pump was buzzing, was that right?

What 'Engine Management' unit are you using?
How it interacts with the factory ecu could prove to be important.

Still try to pull the codes.

I would think that if the TPS is the cause of this problem, then you won't be able to see it when checking the tps with a DVM.

You could also stick a DVM on the tps wire near the ecu. Take the car out for a drive and watch the tps signal when you mash the throttle.
If you do this, use caution...

jason