Throw-out bearings?

I just passes 32K miles a few weeks ago and I suddenly had a weird chirping noise. It comes and goes but usually comes after I have been driving for a bit. It almost sounds like a really old cd player trying to read a scratched up disc while I am moving but it gets really, really loud when I am stoped. The noise goes away the 2nd I even put the clutch down a 1/4 of an inch. I was told its most likely my throw-out bearings. Since I am a horrible mechanic and have to drop the trans to have this fixed anyways I decided to get a new aftermarket clutch too. I'm thinking of a King Cobra Stage 1. It seems like there are a few different companies that make it but Im not sure which one to get? Also I have found a few places that also have Heavy Duty All Steel Throw-Out Bearing and All Steel Throw-Out Bearing Retainer. Would it be worth while to grab those also or would the bearings that come with the king cobra be ok?
Thanks
 
your guess sounds right.
just make sure the TOB is of good quality (given the number of folks with issues from them). it seems to be hit or miss on that.

do your cars come with steel retainers? foxes dont and we often upgrade as the stock retainer gets chewed up after time. if it looks bad, i would swap it.

good luck - dont have clutch info for ya (my next one will be a Spec).
 
Sounds just like a TOB issue. Our TOB retainers are steel stock and they hardly wear out. I had my tranny out at 188,000 and it still looked good. On the clutch question it really depends on what your plans are with the car. I first bought a RAM HD clutch and thought it would hold up and it was gone in 15k miles. I bought a clutch from advanced(zoom) about 4k miles ago and it is a far better clutch that the RAM was. Im kinda scared sometimes because I feel like it will break third.
 
I just put a King Cobra clutch in my 94'. It really isn't that hard at all. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but don't let it intimidate you. Like I said it's not hard at all. Any Ford clutch you buy will usually come w/ a pressure plate, clutch disc, and a new throw out bearing. I personally don't think you need the "all steel" bearing. I installed a Fidanza aluminum flywheel also. The combination works great. There is noticably more pressure and it grabs a whole lot more. I'm still running my 2.73 rear gear and it will rip a decent 2nd now. You can also buy the parts seperately. They sell them out of the FRPP catalog. Since you've only got 32k I'd venture to guess your disc is fine. I noticed when I swapped mine the discs look the exact same. My old one was just worn a lot more. If it'll save you some dough it might be worth it. On the other hand the whole kit might be just as cheap. As for installing it yourself... I hope you have a good back, cause you'll be laying on it. Here's the basic stuff...
1. Drop your H-pipe
2. Take you driveshaft loose, and watch out for tranny fluid!!!!
3. Take the bolts out of the trans at the bellhousing; unplug everything
4. Loosen one side of the cross member and unbolt the trans mount
5. Take the clutch cable loose from the clutch pedal and clutch fork
6. Drop trans-be careful with the input shaft-you might need an extra hand, it's a little heavy and you'll be in an akward position
when you pull the trans out the clutch will be loose inside the bellhousing; it's easier on your back this way
7. (the hardest part in my opinion) Take the bolts out of the bellhousing **and be careful to not drop the bellhousing on your head (my brother wasn't that lucky)**

now you've got your clutch out. You'll need a clutch alignment tool from Auto Zone or somewhere like that. I paid $3.00 for mine.
Put the clutch on with the alignment tool, it'll hold it there for you
Then start back with the bellhousing.
hope this helped.
Oh, you might want to upgrade to a adustable cable and good quadrant also!
Dallas Mustang has got a good kit for a good price
check it out
 
LandonC said:
I just put a King Cobra clutch in my 94'. It really isn't that hard at all. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but don't let it intimidate you. Like I said it's not hard at all. Any Ford clutch you buy will usually come w/ a pressure plate, clutch disc, and a new throw out bearing. I personally don't think you need the "all steel" bearing. I installed a Fidanza aluminum flywheel also. The combination works great. There is noticably more pressure and it grabs a whole lot more. I'm still running my 2.73 rear gear and it will rip a decent 2nd now. You can also buy the parts seperately. They sell them out of the FRPP catalog. Since you've only got 32k I'd venture to guess your disc is fine. I noticed when I swapped mine the discs look the exact same. My old one was just worn a lot more. If it'll save you some dough it might be worth it. On the other hand the whole kit might be just as cheap. As for installing it yourself... I hope you a good back, cause you'll be laying on it. Here's the basic stuff...
1. Drop your H-pipe
2. Take you driveshaft loose
3. Take the bolts out of the trans at the bellhousing; unplug everything
4. Loosen one side of the cross member and unbolt the trans mount
5. Take the clutch cable loose from the clutch pedal and clutch fork
6. Drop trans-be careful with the input shaft-you might need an extra hand, it's a little heavy and you'll be in an akward position
when you pull the trans out the clutch will be loose inside the bellhousing; it's easier on your back this way
7. (the hardest part in my opinion) Take the bolts out of the bellhousing **and be careful to not drop the bellhousing on your head (my brother wasn't that lucky)**

now you've got your clutch out. You'll need a clutch alignment tool from Auto Zone or somewhere like that. I paid $3.00 for mine.
Put the clutch on with the alignment tool, it'll hold it there for you
Then start back with the bellhousing.
hope this helped.
Oh, you might want to upgrade to a adustable cable and good quadrant also!
Dallas Mustang has got a good kit for a good price
check it out

So I guess you drained tranny fluid all over the floor? You have to drain your tranny fluid before pulling the driveshaft. When you fill it back up use dexron III/mercon ATF.