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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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Throwout bearing constantly going bad.

  • Thread starter Thread starter The Green GT
  • Start date Start date Jan 8, 2006
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Blackened302

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Jul 21, 2005
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Jan 10, 2006
#21
  • Jan 10, 2006
  • #21
HISSIN50 said:
I run their single-hook and extreme FWA (and stock cable) on the fox. Not that it helps you much with the SN though.

Good luck Paul.
Click to expand...
why not?
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
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#22
  • Jan 10, 2006
  • #22
Ram000 said:
why not?
Click to expand...
It would have been nice if I could provide a direct experience that those components worked great in an SN95. Since the SN cable is longer, there is always a chance of something not working right (I really doubt it though).

But, as far as the pieces themselves go, I am happy with them (I went from an old-school single-hook SVO quadrant and Ford adjustable clutch cable to this stuff). So at least I can say that I think the quadrant and FWA themselves work well on my fox. I just cant say that they will work well in your car.

Good luck.
 

a50sn95

Founding Member
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Elk Grove, CA
Jan 10, 2006
#23
  • Jan 10, 2006
  • #23
I have the UPR Triple Quadrant AND the Extreme Firewall adjuster, and the original cable. Works fine.
FWIW, I've had a Mustang since 1986, (actually, since 1978, but a FOX Mustang since 1986...) and NEVER have had a T/O bearing issue. (Other than replacing them when I did the clutch...)And that's gotta be well over 400,000 miles in two Mustangs....
I ALWAYS make a point to take my foot off the pedal unless I'm shifting. NEVER let it ride....
I HAVE always had an adjustable setup, though. My '86 had a BBK quadrant and cable. Tore up the cable twice in 200,000 miles, so I stayed with the stock cable this time.
Dennis
 

Blackened302

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Jan 10, 2006
#24
  • Jan 10, 2006
  • #24
thanks guys. i'm ordering the stuff very soon--i've had a chirp for a while. i believe you've given me advice on this a while back, hissin, i just hadn't gotten a chance to get the quadrant. i'm sure this will remedy the prpblem, thanks again, gents.
 

R.J.

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Jan 11, 2006
#25
  • Jan 11, 2006
  • #25
I think keeping the stock cable is great for two reasons. It is the best cable for reliability and strength and the incorrect adjustment factor is no longer there. I would have kept my stock cable if I knew it would work with steeda's quadrant. I can't see how it would work because the cable would have to be the perfect length due to both ends getting attached to something solid. How are you guys making this work on sn95's? firewall adjusters? or does it just fit perfect?
 

HISSIN50

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#26
  • Jan 11, 2006
  • #26
R.J. said:
I think keeping the stock cable is great for two reasons. It is the best cable for reliability and strength and the incorrect adjustment factor is no longer there. I would have kept my stock cable if I knew it would work with steeda's quadrant. I can't see how it would work because the cable would have to be the perfect length due to both ends getting attached to something solid. How are you guys making this work on sn95's? firewall adjusters? or does it just fit perfect?
Click to expand...
I think you meant to say that you like the stock quadrant and pawl's ability to keep the adjustment correct. A cable is a cable. Some have an adjustment-nut to allow adjustments and the stockers have nothing (the quad and pawl teeth engagement holds the adjustment). A FWA needs to be used on a non-adjustable cable unless you are just one lucky guy. But then you would never be able to adjust the cable as things wear (unless you unhook it and manually shim the firewall at the grommet. Not my idea of fun).


So Adj cable = no FWA needed.
Stock cable = need FWA
 

Blackened302

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#27
  • Jan 11, 2006
  • #27
don't forget an adjustable clutch quadrant with either, yes?
 

ES Stangin

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Jan 11, 2006
#28
  • Jan 11, 2006
  • #28
I bought the MM Adjustable Quadrant Kit, which came with a new Ford cable. I used the stock one with no problems (other than modifying it a little like the instructions stated).

I am kinda biased towards MM, though.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
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#29
  • Jan 11, 2006
  • #29
Ram000 said:
don't forget an adjustable clutch quadrant with either, yes?
Click to expand...
With the (stock) adjustable quadrant/pawl, you can use a FWA (nice if the cable is really stretched) but really dont need it. The stock quadrant should accept either type of cable too (again redundant with an adjustable cable).

The stock quad is such a POS, I would really spend the 20 bucks on it.

Just my two cents.
 
I

igotyofire

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Feb 26, 2004
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Southern California
Jan 12, 2006
#30
  • Jan 12, 2006
  • #30
mo_dingo said:
If you sit at stoplights with the clutch in, YOU are prematurely wearing it out...STOP IT!!!
Click to expand...

anyone else verify this? because i do that all the time. The thing is mine only makes noise now when the clutch is pushed in, and now its usually only after a lil bit of aggresive driving but it does not sound like a TO bearing but more like a bad pully of some sort
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
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Jan 12, 2006
#31
  • Jan 12, 2006
  • #31
igotyofire said:
anyone else verify this?
Click to expand...
Scott is correct.
 

slvrsn95

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Jan 13, 2006
#32
  • Jan 13, 2006
  • #32
I wasn't able to use the Maximum Motorsports "oem cable" from their kit, ended up being too short. I was able to hook it after prying the clutch fork about three inches which in turn slipped the clutch like crazy so I just threw the stock cable back on and was good to go...
 
D

D.Hearne

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#33
  • Feb 10, 2006
  • #33
Green GT's problem is that the factory cable is too short, preloading the bearing. He needs suggestions on a longer cable, or any other way to build in some slack to keep the bearing from riding the pressure plate constantly. Any and all suggestions welcome.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
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#34
  • Feb 10, 2006
  • #34
DH, I would call MM and get their opinion. Perhaps one of the many cables they offer would work better, and they would know.

Or if someone knows the stock cable length, you could probably extrapolate how much longer of a cable is needed, and check specs on various universal cables out there.........

Good luck.
 
D

D.Hearne

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#35
  • Feb 10, 2006
  • #35
It only needs to be a quarter inch or so longer ( or maybe say a half inch ) then use some kind of adjustment built into it to fine tune it.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
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#36
  • Feb 11, 2006
  • #36
D.Hearne said:
It only needs to be a quarter inch or so longer ( or maybe say a half inch ) then use some kind of adjustment built into it to fine tune it.
Click to expand...
Herr Hearne,
I just skimmed the thread and missed what GGT's combo is, in terms of quad/FWA?/ and cable.

The two places on aftermarket stuff that I would look for gaining a hair of slack are:

At the firewall grommet, if he has one (stock). Also if OEM, double check that the quadrant/pawl adjustment is already released. I suppose one could shave the grommet down a little, dont ya think?
And since this was someone else's car before, if he has a FWA, I have to ask if the grommet was removed.

And if using an aftermarket quadrant, I would take a looksie at what is up there. Some are made only for their proprietary [longer] adjustable cables. I ran into this issue with the SVO single hook and an OEM cable. I was about 2 RCH's short of being able to make the connection at the fork.

I bet you can find some way to dig up some extra slack...... It's just how much of a PITA it will be to accomplish. Good luck.
 

Koniz

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Apr 3, 2005
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Geneseo, IL
Feb 11, 2006
#37
  • Feb 11, 2006
  • #37
HISSIN50 said:
I would say that the OEM cable is VERY hard to beat in terms of quality. It would be my first choice. See MM's site for a quality cable at a good price (for SN95's).
Click to expand...

Definitely with the OEM cable, When I worked for a performance parts store thats all I would sell to people find a replacement stock cable.
 
D

D.Hearne

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#38
  • Feb 11, 2006
  • #38
HISSIN50 said:
Herr Hearne,
I just skimmed the thread and missed what GGT's combo is, in terms of quad/FWA?/ and cable.

The two places on aftermarket stuff that I would look for gaining a hair of slack are:

At the firewall grommet, if he has one (stock). Also if OEM, double check that the quadrant/pawl adjustment is already released. I suppose one could shave the grommet down a little, dont ya think?
And since this was someone else's car before, if he has a FWA, I have to ask if the grommet was removed.

And if using an aftermarket quadrant, I would take a looksie at what is up there. Some are made only for their proprietary [longer] adjustable cables. I ran into this issue with the SVO single hook and an OEM cable. I was about 2 RCH's short of being able to make the connection at the fork.

I bet you can find some way to dig up some extra slack...... It's just how much of a PITA it will be to accomplish. Good luck.
Click to expand...
The car was my kid's before. Stock repalcement cable, no firewall adjuster, stock original quadrant. Personally I don't see what a firewall adjuster would do, the cable's still the same length.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
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Feb 11, 2006
#39
  • Feb 11, 2006
  • #39
D.Hearne said:
The car was my kid's before. Stock repalcement cable, no firewall adjuster, stock original quadrant. Personally I don't see what a firewall adjuster would do, the cable's still the same length.
Click to expand...
Ok, I gotcha. I was trying to post info for each situation (stock vs aftermarket parts).

I agree - the only time a FWA helps on a stock clutch linkage assembly is if the cable is stretched and the stock quadrant/pawl cant take all the slack out. A buddy of mine does it like that and it works. The FWA changes the cable's position in the sheath.

If the stock quadrant is ok, and its adjustment was released (separate the mesh inbetween the teeth on the quadrant and pawl, to allow full pedal travel), I would maybe try reducing the thickness of the firewall grommet. I have to say that none of this should be necessary - it should all fit right.

Good luck bud.
 

Dagz

New Member
Dec 2, 2005
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Quesnel Canada
Feb 11, 2006
#40
  • Feb 11, 2006
  • #40
Has anyone thought of the pilot bearing in th crank. When they are worn they can take out the tob in a heart beat. Possibility that it could still be stock, only like 10 bucks to replace, but if is bad it will miss align the tob and wear it out. Hope that helps, Dagz
 
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