Throwout bearing constantly going bad.

The Green GT

No 13 year olds are safe around me.
10 Year Member
Jan 8, 2006
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Louisiana
I have a '94 GT with the 5.0 and my friened who had it before me says he put a Cobra pressure plate in it. the throwout bearing has been changed twice in the last 4 months. Could it be the Cobra pressure plate making them go so fast?
 
bill302 said:
WHAT KIND OF CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT DO YOU HAVE THIS MAY BE YOUR PROBLEM (CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT) AND WHERE ARE YOU GETTING REPLACEMENT BEARINGS FROM.
I just got the car a few weeks ago so I dont know about the clutch adjustment. And Im pretty sure they bearings were bought from a part store like Auto Zone. And thanks for typing in all caps. It really helps to get your point across. And how do I go about checking the clutch adjustment?
 
urban96 said:
improper cable adjustment can cause them to go bad fast. also might wanna change the bearing retainer on the trans next time you have it out
Thank you. I have a feeling that time will be pretty soon. How do I check to make sure that the cable is adjusted properly?
 
The Green GT said:
And thanks for typing in all caps. It really helps to get your point across.

:rlaugh: I don't know if that was meant to be funny, but it was to me! :lol:

FWIW, throwout bearing are ALWAYS going bad in mustangs. My friend replaced his throwout bearing, 5k miles later it was chirping again.
 
CManT1914 said:
:rlaugh: I don't know if that was meant to be funny, but it was to me! :lol:

FWIW, throwout bearing are ALWAYS going bad in mustangs. My friend replaced his throwout bearing, 5k miles later it was chirping again.
It was more of a sarcastic funny, but anyways, I dont think its even been 5,000 since we changed it the first time.
 
I would use a Ford TOB, not anything from a parts store.

As indicated, a bad bearing retainer can take out a new TOB, but I kinda doubt that is your issue, considering how recently someone was in there to replace it and inspect things.

Proper cable adjustment is to remove slack in the cable and then dial in a hair of preload. Running with no preload can allow the TOB to slop around on the input bearing retainer shaft and wear out. Often dialing in a hair of preload will shut up a TOB that was getting quiet with the pedal pressed down at all.

Good luck.
 
Mine does the same thing. When it started, I could keep it quiet by resting my foot on the clutch pedal, so I know it's the adjustment (lack thereof). Nowadays it is much much worse. Here's the question of the day. How do I adjust it?
Brandon
 
ROLLIN5.0 said:
Mine does the same thing. When it started, I could keep it quiet by resting my foot on the clutch pedal, so I know it's the adjustment (lack thereof). Nowadays it is much much worse. Here's the question of the day. How do I adjust it?
Brandon
For a stock quadrant/pawl, pull up on the clutch pedal to adjust it.
 
welp, these guys have you covered.

+1,000,000 with the clutch adjustment set-up. you should definately look into an adjustable clutch quadrant and a firewall adjuster. upr and steeda have some awesome packages, i'm going w/ upr myself.
 
RAM000: I would go with Steeda not UPR. I had a UPR for 3 months and the cable unwound its self and stretched to the point where the pedal was on the floor and the clutch had not moved yet. My steeda has been in for 3 years now. Just my .02
 
I would say that the OEM cable is VERY hard to beat in terms of quality. It would be my first choice. See MM's site for a quality cable at a good price (for SN95's).
 
Ram000 said:
thanks for the advice, rj, but i'm not planning on replacing the cable. what do you think of upr's quadrant?
I run their single-hook and extreme FWA (and stock cable) on the fox. Not that it helps you much with the SN though.

Good luck Paul.