Throwout bearing constantly going bad.

Ram000 said:
It would have been nice if I could provide a direct experience that those components worked great in an SN95. Since the SN cable is longer, there is always a chance of something not working right (I really doubt it though).

But, as far as the pieces themselves go, I am happy with them (I went from an old-school single-hook SVO quadrant and Ford adjustable clutch cable to this stuff). So at least I can say that I think the quadrant and FWA themselves work well on my fox. I just cant say that they will work well in your car. :bang:

Good luck.
 
I have the UPR Triple Quadrant AND the Extreme Firewall adjuster, and the original cable. Works fine.
FWIW, I've had a Mustang since 1986, (actually, since 1978, but a FOX Mustang since 1986...) and NEVER have had a T/O bearing issue. (Other than replacing them when I did the clutch...)And that's gotta be well over 400,000 miles in two Mustangs....
I ALWAYS make a point to take my foot off the pedal unless I'm shifting. NEVER let it ride....
I HAVE always had an adjustable setup, though. My '86 had a BBK quadrant and cable. Tore up the cable twice in 200,000 miles, so I stayed with the stock cable this time.
Dennis
 
thanks guys. i'm ordering the stuff very soon--i've had a chirp for a while. i believe you've given me advice on this a while back, hissin, i just hadn't gotten a chance to get the quadrant. i'm sure this will remedy the prpblem, thanks again, gents.
 
I think keeping the stock cable is great for two reasons. It is the best cable for reliability and strength and the incorrect adjustment factor is no longer there. I would have kept my stock cable if I knew it would work with steeda's quadrant. I can't see how it would work because the cable would have to be the perfect length due to both ends getting attached to something solid. How are you guys making this work on sn95's? firewall adjusters? or does it just fit perfect?
 
R.J. said:
I think keeping the stock cable is great for two reasons. It is the best cable for reliability and strength and the incorrect adjustment factor is no longer there. I would have kept my stock cable if I knew it would work with steeda's quadrant. I can't see how it would work because the cable would have to be the perfect length due to both ends getting attached to something solid. How are you guys making this work on sn95's? firewall adjusters? or does it just fit perfect?
I think you meant to say that you like the stock quadrant and pawl's ability to keep the adjustment correct. A cable is a cable. Some have an adjustment-nut to allow adjustments and the stockers have nothing (the quad and pawl teeth engagement holds the adjustment). A FWA needs to be used on a non-adjustable cable unless you are just one lucky guy. But then you would never be able to adjust the cable as things wear (unless you unhook it and manually shim the firewall at the grommet. Not my idea of fun).
:)

So Adj cable = no FWA needed.
Stock cable = need FWA
 
I bought the MM Adjustable Quadrant Kit, which came with a new Ford cable. I used the stock one with no problems (other than modifying it a little like the instructions stated).

I am kinda biased towards MM, though.
 
Ram000 said:
don't forget an adjustable clutch quadrant with either, yes?
With the (stock) adjustable quadrant/pawl, you can use a FWA (nice if the cable is really stretched) but really dont need it. The stock quadrant should accept either type of cable too (again redundant with an adjustable cable).

The stock quad is such a POS, I would really spend the 20 bucks on it.

Just my two cents. :)
 
mo_dingo said:
If you sit at stoplights with the clutch in, YOU are prematurely wearing it out...STOP IT!!! :)

anyone else verify this? because i do that all the time. The thing is mine only makes noise now when the clutch is pushed in, and now its usually only after a lil bit of aggresive driving but it does not sound like a TO bearing but more like a bad pully of some sort
 
I wasn't able to use the Maximum Motorsports "oem cable" from their kit, ended up being too short. I was able to hook it after prying the clutch fork about three inches :nonono: which in turn slipped the clutch like crazy so I just threw the stock cable back on and was good to go...
 
Green GT's problem is that the factory cable is too short, preloading the bearing. He needs suggestions on a longer cable, or any other way to build in some slack to keep the bearing from riding the pressure plate constantly. Any and all suggestions welcome.
 
DH, I would call MM and get their opinion. Perhaps one of the many cables they offer would work better, and they would know.

Or if someone knows the stock cable length, you could probably extrapolate how much longer of a cable is needed, and check specs on various universal cables out there.........

Good luck.
 
D.Hearne said:
It only needs to be a quarter inch or so longer ( or maybe say a half inch ) then use some kind of adjustment built into it to fine tune it.
Herr Hearne,
I just skimmed the thread and missed what GGT's combo is, in terms of quad/FWA?/ and cable.

The two places on aftermarket stuff that I would look for gaining a hair of slack are:

At the firewall grommet, if he has one (stock). Also if OEM, double check that the quadrant/pawl adjustment is already released. I suppose one could shave the grommet down a little, dont ya think?
And since this was someone else's car before, if he has a FWA, I have to ask if the grommet was removed. :bang:

And if using an aftermarket quadrant, I would take a looksie at what is up there. Some are made only for their proprietary [longer] adjustable cables. I ran into this issue with the SVO single hook and an OEM cable. I was about 2 RCH's short of being able to make the connection at the fork.

I bet you can find some way to dig up some extra slack...... It's just how much of a PITA it will be to accomplish. :) Good luck.
 
HISSIN50 said:
I would say that the OEM cable is VERY hard to beat in terms of quality. It would be my first choice. See MM's site for a quality cable at a good price (for SN95's).

Definitely with the OEM cable, When I worked for a performance parts store thats all I would sell to people find a replacement stock cable.
 
HISSIN50 said:
Herr Hearne,
I just skimmed the thread and missed what GGT's combo is, in terms of quad/FWA?/ and cable.

The two places on aftermarket stuff that I would look for gaining a hair of slack are:

At the firewall grommet, if he has one (stock). Also if OEM, double check that the quadrant/pawl adjustment is already released. I suppose one could shave the grommet down a little, dont ya think?
And since this was someone else's car before, if he has a FWA, I have to ask if the grommet was removed. :bang:

And if using an aftermarket quadrant, I would take a looksie at what is up there. Some are made only for their proprietary [longer] adjustable cables. I ran into this issue with the SVO single hook and an OEM cable. I was about 2 RCH's short of being able to make the connection at the fork.

I bet you can find some way to dig up some extra slack...... It's just how much of a PITA it will be to accomplish. :) Good luck.
The car was my kid's before. Stock repalcement cable, no firewall adjuster, stock original quadrant. Personally I don't see what a firewall adjuster would do, the cable's still the same length.:shrug:
 
D.Hearne said:
The car was my kid's before. Stock repalcement cable, no firewall adjuster, stock original quadrant. Personally I don't see what a firewall adjuster would do, the cable's still the same length.:shrug:
Ok, I gotcha. I was trying to post info for each situation (stock vs aftermarket parts).

I agree - the only time a FWA helps on a stock clutch linkage assembly is if the cable is stretched and the stock quadrant/pawl cant take all the slack out. A buddy of mine does it like that and it works. The FWA changes the cable's position in the sheath.

If the stock quadrant is ok, and its adjustment was released (separate the mesh inbetween the teeth on the quadrant and pawl, to allow full pedal travel), I would maybe try reducing the thickness of the firewall grommet. I have to say that none of this should be necessary - it should all fit right.

Good luck bud.
 
Has anyone thought of the pilot bearing in th crank. When they are worn they can take out the tob in a heart beat. Possibility that it could still be stock, only like 10 bucks to replace, but if is bad it will miss align the tob and wear it out. Hope that helps, Dagz