prsrizdgt said:
Lowered mine about 1.5 this weekend with "B" springs, and I also noticed that the tie rods had a heckuva lot of angle. When I jack the body back up the same amount by putting a floor jack under the center cross member, they still are angled up some. I hadn't heard other people mentioning that it was a problem when they drove their lowered cars, so I didn't plan on worring about it. The issue is that it seems like if you go past 1.5 inches, it brings more areas of concern into the picture. If it were me and I went that low, I would use the rack bushings as a precaution anyway since they are so cheap.
Good luck......By the way, what brand of C/C plates are you going with?
You should not use steering rack bushings on a stock k-member to change the geometry... Here is a statement from Maximum Motorsports regarding Bumpsteer...
There is a myth that the tie rod should be kept parallel to
the ground to avoid bumpsteer. THIS IS NOT TRUE! What
IS required, is that the tie rod be kept parallel to the lower
control arm so that as the suspension moves, the arc of
the ball joint and the arc of the tie rod end do not cause
any steering input to the spindle. As you lower your car,
the tie rod end and the lower control arm move together,
staying parallel. If you install offset rack bushings on a
stock geometry K-member, you are making the tie rod end
and the lower control arm NOT parallel. You will actually
CREATE bumpsteer by installing offset rack bushings on a
stock K-member.
Hope this helps....
Thanks,
