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Timing For 95 Mustang V6?

  • Thread starter Thread starter snowboardkid503
  • Start date Start date Dec 12, 2014

snowboardkid503

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Oct 27, 2014
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Dec 12, 2014
#1
  • Dec 12, 2014
  • #1
How do I fix my timing? My car keeps bogging out, if I give it full throttle it bogs out then accelerates like it's supports to. I changed the maf, egr valve, o2 sensor, fuel filter I put a cold air intake, just don't know why it's doing this.
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
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Foothill Ranch, CA
Dec 12, 2014
#2
  • Dec 12, 2014
  • #2
The timing on the V6 engines is electronic, there's no way to change the timing unless you put a chip in the computer and get a tune. The first thing you should do is pull codes from the computer. Even if the Check Engine light isn't lit, the computer can still store error codes. They may provide a clue as to your bogging issue. If you don't have an OBD2 code reader, go buy one. If you can, buy one of the pricier ones that read PIDs - basically, you can see some of what the computer sees while the engine is running, like the coolant temperature, O2 sensors, etc.
 

snowboardkid503

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Oct 27, 2014
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Dec 12, 2014
#3
  • Dec 12, 2014
  • #3
I've used auto zone one, saying something coolant temperature code P0125 it was the only one they got from the reading
 

addermk2

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Aug 25, 2009
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Dec 12, 2014
#4
  • Dec 12, 2014
  • #4
You need to bring your car to a shop that can diagnose your problem. There are many things that could cause your problem, up to, and including... failed cats.
 

snowboardkid503

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Oct 27, 2014
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Dec 12, 2014
#5
  • Dec 12, 2014
  • #5
How much does shops charge for that?
 

snowboardkid503

New Member
Oct 27, 2014
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Dec 12, 2014
#6
  • Dec 12, 2014
  • #6
Or is there a way I can test my car myself
 

addermk2

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Aug 25, 2009
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Dec 12, 2014
#7
  • Dec 12, 2014
  • #7
Depends on the shop. 1 hour of diag could be from $75 to $110.

But had you done that in the first place, you would have spent less on unnecessary parts.
 

snowboardkid503

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Dec 12, 2014
#8
  • Dec 12, 2014
  • #8
Well I replaced them cause I got the codes with the obd2 reading so therefore there wasn't unnecessary part
 

addermk2

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Aug 25, 2009
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Dec 12, 2014
#9
  • Dec 12, 2014
  • #9
snowboardkid503 said:
Well I replaced them cause I got the codes with the obd2 reading so therefore there wasn't unnecessary part
Click to expand...
We can only work with the info you give us there darling.
 

snowboardkid503

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Oct 27, 2014
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Dec 12, 2014
#10
  • Dec 12, 2014
  • #10
1 I'm not your darling, 2 I wouldn't replace parts for no reason, that's why I said I'm only getting the P0125 code
 

jozsefsz

15 Year Member
Aug 11, 2013
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Dec 13, 2014
#11
  • Dec 13, 2014
  • #11
I'm guessing due to the parts that were changed, that you'd been getting fuel-related codes before (sensor lean, etc). You haven't mentioned checking the fuel pressure - beyond changing the fuel filter, your pump may be going south, the in-tank sock may be clogged, etc. Definitely one of the cheapest, easiest things to check first, and a mechanical failure with fuel pressure doesn't throw a code, other than related codes that can lead you in the wrong direction.

As for other mechanical problems (clogged cats was mentioned), a vacuum gauge can help isolate those types of issues too. The SN95 was Ford's early attempt at OBDII, not everything is monitored, and sometimes old-fashioned troubleshooting is needed.

addermk2, no need to get rude sweet cheeks. No one likes a shop-shill on sites where folks like to help each other DIY. Before I got the hang of things I replaced all kinds of things that didn't need to be replaced, but if I ran to the shop everytime I had a problem for their 'expert diagnosis' my wallet would be a lot lighter and I'd never have learned. And they'd likely have replaced all those parts too, just with a significantly higher markup than AutoZone and a ton of labor thrown in. A really good trusted shop maybe not, but I haven't found many of those in my time.
 

snowboardkid503

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Oct 27, 2014
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Dec 13, 2014
#12
  • Dec 13, 2014
  • #12
I never got that code before just got it after changing everything, when I changed the fuel filter, there was a lot of pressure when pulling the lines out, not sure how to check the pressure, the main code I got before was for MAF, EGR valve, and the o2 sensor, so I replaced them, only reason I did the fuel filter was that's what someone told me,that could cause the bogging.. yes I'm aware of the OBDII, so what would I need to check cats myself? As fair as any vacuum leaks I've checked, but lines are all good

Thanks for the reply, and not being a douche to me, I'm a noob on cars,, this my first car to work on and gotta learn some way or another
 

jozsefsz

15 Year Member
Aug 11, 2013
1,243
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Cleveland OH Area
Dec 14, 2014
#13
  • Dec 14, 2014
  • #13
Any time! Your friend was correct, a clogged fuel filter can cause bogging, so can low fuel pressure. You can't really go by feel on the fuel pressure - it's supposed to be at 39psi at idle with the little vacuum hose at the regulator disconnected and plugged, a few psi off one way or the other and it may feel like you have ok pressure, but you'll have driveability problems. You check the fuel pressure the same way you check your tires - there's a valve just like a tire valve on the fuel rail (passenger side, you don't have to remove anything to get to it), covered by a little black cap. You need a special gauge however since this is fuel, I believe you can borrow one at AutoZone. It's part of their "Loan a Tool" "Fuel Pump Diagnostic System." Remove cap, remove vacuum hose from regulator and plug it, install gauge, start car, check the gauge - should say around 40psi, stop car, push button on gauge to let out remaining pressure, and disconnect gauge. (Pro-tip next time you change your fuel filter, you can depress the little valve inside the fuel rail with a screw-driver (don't overdo it and wreck the valve) to avoid having fuel sprayed at you when you remove the filter).

I suspected fuel because when you go to accelerate, the fuel system is supposed to give it an extra shot of fuel to get you going and to counter-act the vacuum drop when the throttle opens (the 'accelerator pump' function from the computer). Also, when the vacuum drops (from acceleration), the fuel pressure is supposed to go up and the fuel pump may not be able to keep up with it. So it could be a weak fuel pump or a faulty pressure regulator. Those are just guesses for things to check, and no parts need to be replaced to check the pressure. There can be other causes of bogging, but lack of fuel is one of the biggest, along with vacuum leaks (generally a lean condition), and retarded timing (the comments above are correct, you can't really change that so it's much less likely).

As for the cats being clogged (much less likely since that also usually comes with a poor idle, and weakness at high revs), I suggested a vacuum gauge can rule that out (an exhaust system clog will show serious problems with the vacuum level the car creates). Here's an article about the things a vacuum gauge can help you figure out: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=2393 (clogged cats fall under the same as 'blocked exhaust.')

So start with a fuel pressure check, if that comes back good I can suggest some other things to check, but I suspect you'll find something wrong here.
 
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