Ok here is the deal, i was driving my 66 mustang with a carb 5.0 in it and when i got on the gas, white smoke came out. so i was thinking a blown head gasket. so i replace the head gaskets and put everything back together correctly. so when i go to start my engine it kept on backfiring and not being able to idle at all. so i found TDC again and tried again. I also tried 180 degrees out and still no luck. it back fired and started a small fire on my carb, but i put it out and everything is ok, so this is where im stuck, i think its still a timing issue but im not sure. i have checked the firing order over and over and tried finding tdc and trying 180 out. so please help me !!
TIMING ISSUE I THINK. HELP ME PLEASE !!!
- Thread starter epmustanggt
- Start date
I hope thats all it is is the wrong firing order. A guy wired my 351w like a regular 302 and thats the issues i had that you described. When my 351w was wired like it should be like a 5.0L H.O. then it idled like it should have. In the mean time i burnt my power valve in my carb. So much for a brand new carb that now needed a rebuild.
oh damn, i prolly blew mine out to, i geuss ill just have to see. i have to wait till the morn to work on my car cause i was about to flip out today when it caught on fire. i have had so much crap go wrong on this one ordeal, intake manifold bolts snapping in half crap like that. but im so glad the heads are on. i am cleaning my carb back out and im gonna try timing it again in the morning and see if i can get it to work.
lol i had the same thing happen to me on my 302 in my truck. I just was torquing last intake bolt down to 18 ft/lbs and it snapped. Cheap chinese bolts. had to remove it all. I know how you feel i have had those days.
this is my latest fiasco
Well i started installing my 4 inch lift kit yesterday. I removed the driver side pivot mount for the i-beam then i started removing the passenger side. held on by 6 rivots. What a pain to get it out. Then i looked at the bracket i was supposed to bolt up for the passenger side. Yep you guessed it there is the idiot part. I didn't have to remove that mounting bracket. In fact i need it there so i can mount the drop bracket from the kit. I'm an idiot. At least ford still makes these brackets. Had to order a new one and man o man is it ever hard to get the rivots out so i can bolt this thing up. It took me like 4 hours today to pound out 6 rivots. I hate it when i decide to take on projects like this. Well i got the driverside of the lift kit all in now tomorrow when the part i need comes in i'll get the passenger side done. lol then i'll have a truck with a 4 inch lift running on 28 inch tires. i need to buy new rims and tires.
this is my latest fiasco
Well i started installing my 4 inch lift kit yesterday. I removed the driver side pivot mount for the i-beam then i started removing the passenger side. held on by 6 rivots. What a pain to get it out. Then i looked at the bracket i was supposed to bolt up for the passenger side. Yep you guessed it there is the idiot part. I didn't have to remove that mounting bracket. In fact i need it there so i can mount the drop bracket from the kit. I'm an idiot. At least ford still makes these brackets. Had to order a new one and man o man is it ever hard to get the rivots out so i can bolt this thing up. It took me like 4 hours today to pound out 6 rivots. I hate it when i decide to take on projects like this. Well i got the driverside of the lift kit all in now tomorrow when the part i need comes in i'll get the passenger side done. lol then i'll have a truck with a 4 inch lift running on 28 inch tires. i need to buy new rims and tires.
tting the distributor back in is fairly simple. Pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger in the sparkplug hole, crank the engine until you feel compression. Then line up the TDC mark on the balancer with the pointer on the engine block.
The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.
Align the distributor rotor up with the #1 position marked on the cap, slide the distributor down into the block, (you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing. If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor, but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that if it doesn't align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range.
At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light and start the engine. Set the timing where your car runs best.
The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.
Align the distributor rotor up with the #1 position marked on the cap, slide the distributor down into the block, (you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing. If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor, but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that if it doesn't align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range.
At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light and start the engine. Set the timing where your car runs best.
Well the car is timed correctly and is still backfiring. so i am going to be checking how tight the rocker arms are or how the carb is tuned. I know for a fact, 100% sure its timed correctly now. but if it is still backfiring than i think maybe valves are to tight or maybe tuning the carb or blown power valve. these are just my thoughts now. when i replaced the head gaskets i hand tightened the rocker arms down so i dont see how it could be too tight to keep an intake valve open when there is combustion. i also dont see a valve being bent if i just hand tightened. so im just not sure what the heck is going on now.
Similar threads
