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Engine Timing Light Not Working

  • Thread starter Thread starter Landon116
  • Start date Start date Jul 9, 2014

Landon116

Member
Aug 13, 2013
82
7
9
Orlando, Fl
Jul 9, 2014
#1
  • Jul 9, 2014
  • #1
Hey all, I am trying to time my car correctly. I recently installed a new balancer because my old one looked like it was out of balance and one of the things I didn't replace when I rebuilt the engine less than 100 miles ago. Car runs pretty good but when I try to use the timing gun. I only very rarely see the 10 degree mark or any marks for that matter. It's like the timing light isn't flashing at the right time or the plug isn't firing correctly. I have a msd cap and rotor and cheap auto zone wires. And yes I did remove the timing advance plug. Any way it could be timing chain not lined up? It was replaced also. Any suggestions?

Thanks guys
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
Jul 2, 2009
5,222
3,254
204
South Jersey
Jul 9, 2014
#2
  • Jul 9, 2014
  • #2
When you rebuilt the engine what all was replaced? What made the balancer look out of balance? Can you divulge a little more info on the car and engine? What part number balancer did you use exactly?
 

Landon116

Member
Aug 13, 2013
82
7
9
Orlando, Fl
Jul 9, 2014
#3
  • Jul 9, 2014
  • #3
Sorry it's a 1992 5.0. Pistons, rings , bearings , timing chain and sprockets gaskets and seals. New plugs, wires, cap and rotor. The balancer looked as if it was wobbling and I thought it was causing a light knock/tap but that's still there. I used a new stock replacement Dorman 50 oz balance. Maybe I didn't get the firing order right or the plug isn't firing. Maybe the cam is a tooth off but I swear the timing was good when I first got it back in and running. It is just so erratic. Every five second or so after flashing I can see my 10 degree mark I highlighted with white out. Sometimes I have to wait before I see the mark even longer. All I see when the gun flashes is the other side of the balancer ? Help!!

Thanks
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
11,606
8,859
214
In the garage
Jul 9, 2014
#4
  • Jul 9, 2014
  • #4
Is the tiiming light on #1 plug wire with the arrow facing the plug on the induction pickup. Is the spout connector out?
 

Landon116

Member
Aug 13, 2013
82
7
9
Orlando, Fl
Jul 9, 2014
#5
  • Jul 9, 2014
  • #5
Alright guys just went out and stabbed the distributor again and went through the whole process of timing and now it's spot on. Now I think I'm still back to battling my strange lifter type knock tap sound. It's driving me crazy. I already replaced them. I don't know what it is. With a stethoscope I only hear it on top of both valve covers on the intake side of them. Only in the center of the engine. Not on the bottom. Maybe I'll start by plucking plug wires one at a time ? What would you do?
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
Jul 2, 2009
5,222
3,254
204
South Jersey
Jul 10, 2014
#6
  • Jul 10, 2014
  • #6
Glad to hear that you have your first issue sorted out! As far as the tapping, are you using stock cylinder heads and pedestal rockers? Were the heads milled at all? Are the valve covers or something else new and maybe the rockers are hitting the inside of them? Exhaust leak? It's a tough one to help with when it's not right in front of you.
 

Landon116

Member
Aug 13, 2013
82
7
9
Orlando, Fl
Jul 10, 2014
#7
  • Jul 10, 2014
  • #7
Yeah I'm happy I got that straightened out ! But yes they are stock heads with stock valve train parts with new melling lifters. The heads were rebuilt right before I bought this car because of an apparent bent valve.. who knows the real story. Everything looks to be in good shape up top though. I have ran the car without valve covers and the noise was not right in front of me so it wasnt rockers. I put a stethoscope on the rocker bolts and I could hear the sound traveling through them. On all cylinders. Last night I pulled plug wires and it is not dependent on any one of the cylinders. The noise stayed the same. Could it be cam bearings maybe the same valve that "was bent" before they were" rebuilt "? I know it's hard to help me diagnose it over the Internet. But any suggestions are appreciated!
 
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