Timing Lock Down

[JJFIVEOH]

I've got a '93 5.0 bracket car. I will have a chance this Friday to do some testing. This is the first chance I will have to try different things in quite a while so I was considering locking down the timing to see if I can gain some ET and make the car more consistent than it already is.

Currently I run 20° initial. This has worked perfectly since I use VP Motorsport 103 fuel. What is the usual advance on a stock 5.0? If I am to run without the spout connector, what would I need to set the timing at so that it would be comparable to the factory advance? I've asked around and have heard that factory advance is anywhere from 14° to 20°. Thanks in advance!!

 

[Blown331LX]

Factory advance should be right around 14 at idle. Keep lean is mean but is also hot and will start knocking or melting ****. Set it at 14, make a test run, set to 16 then make another. You should go no higher than 25 unless u want to take it home in a box. If you had a turbo or blower or nitrous then maybe. But stock should be right at 14 with the connector unplugged.

 

[JJFIVEOH]

Actually what I'm looking to do is run the ignition locked down. Some call it locked out. It's a track car only. I want to run the car with full advance at all RPM's so I won't be installing the spout connector. This way the computer won't have control over advancing the timing at WOT. What I need to know is, what is the usual advance on a stock motor at WOT? Presently, it is set at 20°, but that is the initial timing.

I know many people do this, but most have vacuum or mechanical advance ignitions.

 

[millhouse]

The first question is, why do you have your timing set at 20* initial with racing fuel? Seriously, it's costing you horsepower and torque. You want to run the highest amount of timing on the lowest octane fuel for the best horsepower and torque.

With that said, stock timing is 10* with the spout removed. The computer advances the timing 16* under open loop, WOT conditions...for a total of 26*. If you add to the base, it add it across the board. So for example, your running 20* inital for a total of 36* total under open loop, WOT conditions.

If I were you, I'd throw in some 87 octane and set the timing at 14* and listen for pinging. If you hear it, back off the timing until it's gone.

 

[JJFIVEOH]

I've tried everything from 10° to 22°. It seems to work the best at 20. The extra ET the car picks up in the 60' is much more than it loses in the top end. Maybe .5 MPH and .05 seconds at most. But, from 14° to 20°, the car gains almost .2 seconds in the 60'. So far it's gotten in the high 1.8's in good air with a stock motor and 3,500 pounds.

I like using the Motorsport 103 because it has a detergent in the fuel that keeps the injectors clean. Plus, it has a higher oxygen content so it is less susceptible to air changes which is important when dialing in. Since the car never sees the street, it doesn't really kill the wallet that much running that gas. Plus, if I ran 87, there is no guaranty that the fuel would be the same every time.

Thanks for the info. I'm going to try running 36° when I go to the track next and see what it does.

 

[jake2582]

with the timing locked run 34-37 degrees. i have 36 degrees in the wheel stand photo in my sig*

 

[millhouse]

I've tried everything from 10° to 22°. It seems to work the best at 20. The extra ET the car picks up in the 60' is much more than it loses in the top end. Maybe .5 MPH and .05 seconds at most. But, from 14° to 20°, the car gains almost .2 seconds in the 60'. So far it's gotten in the high 1.8's in good air with a stock motor and 3,500 pounds.

I like using the Motorsport 103 because it has a detergent in the fuel that keeps the injectors clean. Plus, it has a higher oxygen content so it is less susceptible to air changes which is important when dialing in. Since the car never sees the street, it doesn't really kill the wallet that much running that gas. Plus, if I ran 87, there is no guaranty that the fuel would be the same every time.

Thanks for the info. I'm going to try running 36° when I go to the track next and see what it does.

I just thought I'd throw it out there in case you already didn't know.

I might add too though that the stock A9P auto computer does something goofy at lower rpm to co-inside with the torque converter operation. The only area this may affect would be your 60'...and for the better or worse, I'm not quite sure.

 

[JJFIVEOH]

I might add too though that the stock A9P auto computer does something goofy at lower rpm to co-inside with the torque converter operation. The only area this may affect would be your 60'...and for the better or worse, I'm not quite sure.

That's what I've heard. But I run a C6. There's nothing left on the car that is stock besides the motor. I wouldn't run an AOD if my life depended on it, lol.

Reason I wanted to lock out the timing is consistency. Usually the car is deadly consistent. But, once in a blue moon it'll throw me a curveball and run like .04-.06 seconds off the last run. The more I have made the car less reliant on the computer, the more consistent it has gotten. I'm thinking if I can take the ignition advance away from it too, it can only get better.