I heard I need a threaded tool to put pressure on both ball joint studs and after loosening the castle nut slightly, I WHACK the side of the spindle next to the ball joints...
You should bang the side of the spindle adjacent to the hole the ball joint slides into.
Don't remove the castle nut totally. Leave it partially threaded so that when it does break free, you don't get whacked in the shin or toe or have the spindle slam into the floor.
You should bang the side of the spindle adjacent to the hole the ball joint slides into.
Don't remove the castle nut totally. Leave it partially threaded so that when it does break free, you don't get whacked in the shin or toe or have the spindle slam into the floor.
If you opt for whacking the top of the nut to get it out just ensure that you thread the nut ALL THE WAY OFF then thread it back on with some anti-seize. If the nut decides to "stick" then the whole joint will rotate and you'll have a hell of time getting the nut the rest of the way off.
You can use a couple large bolts connected by a rod connector between the two ball joints.
Check out a thread 6/20/06 titled Progress report on suspension rebuild for a picture.
I used this (just spent about $8 at the hardware store) and it worked well. As a matter of fact the rental tool at autozone wouldn't even fit on the lower arm.
Wedge that puppy in there tight, then give the spindle a few wacks. 5 hard wacks to the end of the pickle fork, then 1 wack to the spindle and repeat. I would strongly advise you do NOT hit the castle nut or the ball joint itself. This can cause major greif later.
If I can get the spindles off my 20 year old 1-tonne truck, you can get them out of the mustang...you just need a bigger hammer.
The tool you refer to is referenced in the shopmanual and was a Ford tool. Don't know if it was even available in the aftermarket.
I also made a tool using a proper length bolt (long and thick) that just fit between the studs of upper and lower ball joints. I then screwed on a nut at the threaded end of the bolt and fir the whole thing between the two stud and started to turn the not off the bolt, which lenghtened the assembly and applied pressure to each ball stud. I then whacked the castle nut and it all came off pretty easy. I did it this way because it was all the stuff I had to work with in my home shop - and the picklefork was a bust.