Tire and Suspension issues

Hey guys and gals, I'm posting here for my first time but I wanted to start off by thanking the community as it has helped to guide me through replacing clutch cables and diff fluid so far, as well as being a great source of knowledge in getting the most out of my car. With that thanks, out out of the way, I'm hoping you can help me.

I've got a UPR K Member, Control Arm, and Coilover set up on the front of the car. 18 x 9 Cobra R wheels, and 255/35/18 tires on front, and 295/35/18 on back. There's also a lowering spring and KYB Strut on the rear of the car, but I don't think I'm getting any trouble from those two. Up front, things are getting a little screwy.

I bought the car in April of 2011 with all of these mods on it and the owner had installed them about a year prior to my purchase. Everything was pretty good and checked out my own inspection when I purchased it, and it was on the cheap side, so in a pinch, I settled with the owner on a price for about a grand less than he was asking, and off I happily drove off into the sunset with my new ride. After the honeymoon period ended, my closer inspection noted a few unsightly repairs on the front fenders and bumpers, and also the wires for a removed subwoofer the owner cut off and hid. It's always had a little bit of squeak on compression over bumps, and I've always assumed it was just the aftermarket suspension and bushings and what not. The car has always loved to turn in to initiate a corner. Sometimes it's made me question the oddly not congruent/symmetrical c/c settings at the shock towers. The car has also had a little slop in the steering wheel and needs a good 20-25 degrees of correction towards uphill when traveling straight, over lateral slopes. Overall though, a flat car for not having a sway bar upgrade, and good front to back stability as well making me thing that the springs and compression are sufficient for grip improvements. I don't really mind the ride quality issues, never the less.

Well, as of the past few months, at some point a lug nut snapped off a lug of the drivers front, and the squeaks or loud creaks can be relentless on some days and non-existent on others. I've also noticed that I'm getting a crack developing in the drivers shock tower, under the outer-forward bolt hole. under the c/c plate. On top of all that, the car can sometimes feel a bit squirrely at first being driven after having sat a day or two and I've got some nasty front tire wear on the insides, that makes me believe I've either got way too much camber (though it looks subtle to me) or a toe/alignment issue. The car is being daily driven in Los Angeles, and I've heard that's probably about the worst thing next to trying a truck trail or war zone for a car with coilovers, without Strut tower braces or Subframe connectors.

Honestly, I love driving the car, but this ish is getting a little weird, and it really makes me worry. I know I need to get that lug replaced, but I'm worried with the stress it's been under, maybe I should just replace the whole hub assembly? The tire issue really sucks because I was on my way to the airport last tuesday and it was still dark o'clock as I was merging onto the 405 and as I was merging in and checking mirrors, I ran myself out of reaction time for a piece of shredded truck tire that I'm presuming is what is responsible for leaving a chunk of melted rubber in my wheel well and the inside of my passenger front tire being worn down to the threads, while the driver's inside is definitely heavily worn, but no threads yet. I guess I need to get it evaluated by an alignment shop to be sure? I need new rears too, as the diff is an open one and the right tire out back is showing threads. And does anyone know if it's possible go back to the stock style strut set up while still using the control arms and K member? What of the shock towers if the cracks are serious?

The set up for the car has always been grip, but I know it needs some chassis stiffening, and more balanced tire set up, as well as brakes and other upgrades, but for right now, I'm just trying to take my meager wages as far as possible in keeping up with the basic maintenance with my extreme lack of tools and workspace.

I'm charging the camera for pics, please check back within a few hours at most.
 

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Drivers Side Strut Tower Crack (inside forward bolt actually)​
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Another of the Crack​
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Horizontal View of Drivers Side Strut Tower from Front of car perspective​
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Passenger Side Strut Tower​
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Horizontal View of Passenger Side Strut Tower from Front of car perspective​
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Drivers Side C/C Plate Bolt arrangement​
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Passenger Side C/C Plate Bolt arrangement​
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First, get some different C/C plates. Get a set of MM plates that are a bit more adjustable than what you have. Also, I would be concerned on HOW those plates are installed. First, they are not uniform from side to side. That says that either they dorked up drilling the holes, or they are bent to hell from side to side. One of them is not even installed straight, one bolt in the front slot, one in the rear slot....if you look at that one, the front is pused over towards the fender more than the rear of the C/C plate.
 
Maybe those cracks are why Maximum Motorsports recomends only 4 bolt caster camber plates on coil over setups.

I wouldn't think there would be a problem just installing a new stud in the spindle as long as there isn't any play in the bearings.

To fix the cracks you need to have a hole drilled at the end of the crack to stop it from cracking more and then welded up.

New tires, new 4 bolt caster camber plates, a stud, an alignment, and a strut tower brace would fix you up fine.
 
Maybe those cracks are why Maximum Motorsports recomends only 4 bolt caster camber plates on coil over setups.

I wouldn't think there would be a problem just installing a new stud in the spindle as long as there isn't any play in the bearings.

To fix the cracks you need to have a hole drilled at the end of the crack to stop it from cracking more and then welded up.

New tires, new 4 bolt caster camber plates, a stud, an alignment, and a strut tower brace would fix you up fine.

Yeah I was kind of thinking this would be what I want to do. Any idea if this is a job you'd want a mustang shop to handle, or if its ok for any shop, or better yet, can I get away doing much of this myself with just hand tools?

Punching out the old stud I've heard is best accomplished with air tools.
I definitely don't have access to a welder, nor do I have the experience to trust my own welds.
While I love the handling of the coilovers, I'm wondering if until it becomes less of a daily, maybe I should go back to the strut set up, with improved struts and springs still, of course.

Also, shouldn't I also do some subframe connectors at the same time as the MM Strut Tower and CC plates?
 
Tubular K members are not the easiest thing to install. You may want to have that looked at and make sure it is done right. I'd be willing to bet that's where your problems are starting. Half an inch off on one side will really throw everything off.
 
Yeah, I'm in Los Angeles, so theres a few shops I found on the Maximum Motorsports Dealer list that I've sent off some emails to requesting rough estimates for the parts and labor. Problem is, I am highly suspect of anyone working on my car but me, and I wish there was someone in the LA area who could steer me in the right direction. I've already put out a posting in the West Coast forum. No responses yet though.
 
I don't think hitting the peice of rubber last week had anything to do with your tire being worn to the threads. Wear like that takes time to happen.

If you don't mind doing the work go on Maximum Motorsports web site and download thier instruction to install the k-member. On there you will find how to square the k-member in the car.

It is pretty easy to knock a stud out using a big f-en hammer, then pull the new one in using an impact, lug nut, and stack of washers. I used a crappy electric impact from Harbor Freight to pull new studs into some axles for my Jeep a couple weeks ago and it worked pretty good.

Subframes aren't required with the caster camber plates and strut tower brace but you wouldn't believe the difference it will make.

Two shops semi close to you are GTR in Rancho Cucamonga and Maximum Motorsports in San Luis Obispo.
 
... If you don't mind doing the work go on Maximum Motorsports web site and download thier instruction to install the k-member. On there you will find how to square the k-member in the car.

It is pretty easy to knock a stud out using a big f-en hammer, then pull the new one in using an impact, lug nut, and stack of washers...

Thanks for the tips. I've definitely started to develop a laundry list of items to take care of. FWIW, I called Maximum Motorsports before you replied and they pretty much said the same things. They also recommended GTR. Thankfully, my oil/coolant leak appears to have been taken care of with the filter adapter gasket repair I did yesterday.

I definitely want to do as much of this on my own as possible, but I don't have the BFH or impact to do the lugs, nor do I have the engine hoist to lift the motor so I can align the K-member. And with my job being a winter seasonal job, I've run out of money for the next 2 weeks until my last check comes.

Buying tools right now, means fitting them into the repair budget as well, which is only making things harder but it's still better than paying someone I don't even know to do the labor. I'd be happy to pay someone with the experience and knowledge to make this all right, but I don't have the money to do that, nor do I know that person, so that means doing as much of it on my own as possible or waiting for my finances permit me to repair all this. Worst of all, the car is my daily driver; my one and only.

I've found some new problems though. While driving home last night, I was on Wilshire coming through Westwood and the eastbound side of the road has some nasty bumps that span the entire width of 2 of the 3 lanes. I normally stay off the road because of traffic, and hence, I was traveling at about 50 mph when I forgot about and ran over what is best described as a 2 inch radius bump. OUCH! Immediately afterwards, the car is squeaking/creaking more than ever especially from the driver's rear, and I checked it this morning to find the right rear lower spring isolator cracking to bits. Ugh.

I've found another member's post on how to easily drop out the springs:
You don't need to remove the LCA's at all if you are just removing/installing springs.

Don't even have to remove the swaybar.


Jack the rear of the car up and place two jack stands underneath the rear subframe.

Have a floor jack under the "pumpkin" of the rear axle to support it.

Disconnect the shocks and quad shocks (both from their axle mounts).

Now lower the floor jack and the rear axle will come down far enough to remove/replace springs.

Reverse order and you are done.
Is this true? It sounds like it will work.

Spring Isolators are $25 for a set. I'm hoping I just need to replace them on both sides to quiet it out. I'll take a video with audio to give you all a more exact idea of what it is I'm hearing, but its best described as a sharp, almost popping, creak. It's coming from right behind my head and I can't quite get a fix on the exact point its coming from while driving, and can't get it to happen by shaking the car with my body while stationary.

So here's the whole list of to-do's in the namesake of preventative/proactive maintenance:
  1. Rear Spring Isolators ($25)
  2. Wheel Stud and Lug Nut (est $50)
  3. Tires ($630 before mounting)
  4. K-member Alignment ($ Unknown)
  5. Maximum Motorsports C/C plates
  6. Maximum Motorsports Strut Tower Brace
  7. Maximum Motorsports Subframe Connectors
  8. Maximum Motorsports Bumpsteer Kit ($720 in MM parts, $ Labor Unknown)
  9. Wheel Alignment ($80)
That's just over $1500 before labor.

By the sounds of things, I can do the following on my own (with minimal tool investments)
1. Rear Spring Isolators​
2. Wheel Stud and Lug Nut​
Can I do anymore? I have no storage space for any tools larger than a floor jack.

Again, I have ratchets up to 18 mm and 7/8', some wrenches, pry bar and gasket scraper, countless pliers yet no channel locks, a floor jack, and two jack stands. I would also love to replace every last stinking busing and bearing on the car, just so I know they're all good, but that's more than I"ll probably have time or money for, for a good long while. S#!t, I might as well tear the whole car apart and seam weld the whole thing with a nice cage as well, and rebuild every component possible. If only...

I guess more than anything, I either need a better job or a buddy with a shop! Ideally, a better job in a shop!!
 
Yes, it's that easy to do the rear springs...:) Only other tip is to note the point at which the "pigtail" of the spring is set onto the control arm mount.

That creak coming from the back is likely worn bushings on either the upper or lower control arms. I had the same creak, replaced the lowers and it made no difference. I suspect the uppers in my case.

If you WANT, wrapping the bottom and top coil of the springs with electrical tape will cancel noise and offer a slightly lower stance. Spring isolators are cheap enough and slip right on/off though.
 
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-electric-impact-wrench-68099.html

Cheap and sure to break some day but it will help pull in the stud and will surely come in handy on a stuck bolt when you need it.

I showed up at my friends house one day and he was doing his tubular k-member with a stack of wood under the oil pan. Maybe not the greatest idea but it worked for him. Just be sure to use a peice of wood that covers the entire pan to better distribute the weight.
 
Hey guys,

Got spring isolators on order from Maximum Motorsports yesterday. I explained the sound and they said it's most definitely my old stock isolators flaking apart. Parts should be here today or tomorrow. Being that it's really only on suspension compression, especially while accelerating, I'm really hoping this is the fix and not control arm bushings. The car never sounded like this before I noticed the spring isolators cracking up.

another member suggested an even cheaper way to do the stud with a c-clamp, washers, and a sacrificial lug nut. Kinda tapped out on money til next friday, though.

blocks of wood under the pan? Eek. This is a job that I'm a little afraid of taking on myself as I've never even attempted a wheel alignment, much less re-positioning a K member. I'm sure I could figure it out, but the car is my daily, and the longest I could afford the time to have it down is 2 days. I'd prefer to at least have the fender to fender engine support beam. I read through the MM instructions, briefly, and it definitely seems like a two man job for the uninitiated. One fully trained tech could probably handle it just fine, but I'm the only car guy in my group of friends, and it's obvious the last guy didn't get it right, though UPR is known to not provide these exact instructions with their K-members. Thankfully, I've got you guys to help supplement my lack of experience, which is always encouraging. Nothing like the pride of doing the job on your own, with the collective brain that is the internet. BTW, I would definitely want flat ground to do this, being as I have to plum bob some things, right? That right there is the hardest part. No one I know (even my bosses) has a garage or even smooth flat ground to work on. Doing this on a hill would probably be idiotic.
 
First of all, the cc-plates are installed incorrectly, and that's a problem. If the installer wasn't qualified to install the plates properly, is it even possible that the car was aligned properly? Not likely. That would explain the uneven tire wear and erratic handling.

That said, I've never seen a strut tower crack without having been damaged in an accident. The evidence of shotty fender and bumper repair pretty much verifies my suspicion. I'd have a reputable body shop inspect the front end for frame damage.

Chances are, your cc-plates would be fine if they were re-installed correctly. (note-in addition to the improper placement, they are also missing some spacers). UPR Products carry a Lifetime Guarantee, and we may be able to help you out despite the fact that these plates were installed incorrectly.

Incidentally, we do manufacture four-bolt plates like MM uses, but our 3-bolt plates work extremely well and do not crack strut towers. So unless you just want to spend more money on MM parts, you do have other options.

In summary, we are perfectly willing to help you sort this out if you'd like. You can reach UPR Products at 561.588.6630.