TKO or G-FORCE?

GTJake

Founding Member
Oct 28, 2002
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Ann Arbor, MI
I'll probably be needing a new tranny this summer, so I need to decide between the G-Force T-5 or a TKO.


G-Force

-True Bolt-in synchronized replacement gearsets capable of handling up to 600 streetable horsepower -$1000

-Overdrive gear set (.90 when available) -$360 -Don't know if this is neccesary?

Upgraded Mainshafts
-ASTM 9310 High Nickel Steel -$295
OR
-ASTM 4340-300M Thru Hard Premium Alloy -$495 -Any suggestions?

-Spec Stage II -$289

-Spec Aluminum Fly -$359

-T-5 Rebuild kit -??? (Any ideas)

Plus installation ~$250 -Just for the T-5 parts

TOTAL ~ $2,553 OR $2,753 depending on mainshaft choice, prices exclude the T-5 Rebuild kit



TKO

-TKO Tranny -$1,375

-SFI Approved Bellhousing -$299

-TKO Shifter -$190

-Spec Stage II -$289*

-Spec Aluminum Fly -$359*
*Are these the same weather it's a T-5 or TKO

-Driveshaft Yoke for the TKO -??? Any Ideas

-Modify crossmember - ??? Any Ideas

TOTAL ~ $2,512 DEPENDING ON DS YOKE AND CROSSMEMBER MODIFICATION

-AM I MISSING ANYTING WITH EITHER THE G-FORCE OR TKO SWAP???

Thank you very much to anyone that finds time to reply!!!!

Jake
 
Yowza...Your going all out..

I thought the G Force was the way i would go if i ever launched mine...Seen some post regarding them be a mother to shift...Not all that user freindly so to say, not really for a street car???...bulletproof, oh ya...Read this not to long ago, forget where though??
 
My friend has a TKO in his '89 and he loves it. I'm just trying to get some opinions on what I should do, nothing is for sure yet. Hopefully I can atleast get the tranny settled this summer so I can go drag racing like I mean it. The T-5 is almost out the door now and with the head swap it's just a matter of time.

Jake
 
hey, I just ordered a g-force kit last week (basic kit). It should be here by next week and it should be installed and the tranny back in the car in two weeks. So if your not in a hurry, I'll tell you what I think of my kit. I just didnt feel like spending all the money on a tko II. Also, I have an aluminum flywheel and a spec stage II (getting new clutch disc for 26 spline input shaft) but not a new pressure plate. So we have similar driveline products. I'll post feedback as soon as I get the car running so just wait a bit before you spend the money....cool?
 
Awesome!!! That would be great! I would also like to hear from some TKO owners, like Paul. Yeah, I'm in no real rush, I just wanted to learn all I can about both before I make a choice.

Thanks guys!

Jake
 
Jake, do you remember all the crap that went wrong with Pauls TKO. I remember he had to take it to a few "specialists" because not many people can fix them. They are a PITA to fix if something goes wrong and I'm sure it costs a ton to fix 'em. I'm sold on the G-Force. I'm a believer of the T5, period. My Dad has flat shifted mine all the time and pulled second with no clutch at all on one occasion (that was scary though). Whats wrong with your tranny? It's only got like, what, 18k on her? I think it would be fine...

Joe
 
I have a buddy here in town who has the g-force upgraded tranny, i have driven his new tranny set up as well as the old tremec setup he had, His motor is built as follows, (tfs high ports, 331 stroker, edel. vic jr. intake, Holley carb somewhere around 850 i think, he has a stage three trick flow cam, ) and his car pulls like crazy has made several 8-flat passes on the 1/8th without traction

But back on topic, his tremec setup was notchy and semi-hard shifting, Howeer i don't know about the synchronized version of the G-Force, my buds is a dog ring version, and is still streetable. I drove his car about 10 miles to the track while he had his other ford on a trailer being pulled to the track(full out ranger-351 etc.), and i had to SHIFT it i mean it was ok but you have to match RPMS with downshifting etc. and the upshifts aren't that bad (just have to know how to drive),<---i guess thats why i wasn't having the best of luck with it. But when you brought the car throught the gears if you didn't granny shift it it felt really good!!!!! I bet the synchronized version would feel almost stock. I would probably buy one but i don't have enough power to need one yet!!

jason
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I think the mistake I made was not changing out the ATF when I first bought the car. I never thought about the tranny fluid being 9 years old. Mid summer I did change it out, but I think the damage was already done. I'm really not sure what's wrong with the tranny exactly, but when I take it above 3.5k rpms in first, second and third the shifter makes a rattling sound like a jackhammer. I've checked the stops on the Tri-Ax and everythings find, so it leads me to beleive that my tranny is going to let go pretty soon.

Jake
 
after my tri-ax install, i got that same noise. it is just the normal vibrations causing the shifter to hit the stops. i plan on backing the strops out a little and maybe that will take care of it. i have 115k on my tranny and i have no problems, but i always keep i mind that not far done the road it could go, especially w/ going to the track.
 
I had my Tri-Ax on for a few months before it started making this jackhammer noise. The funny thing is I probably made about 40 pass on the 1/8 track while it was doing this and nothing bad has happened. I'm just getting some info together for when it does blow.

Jake
 
Jake, I seriously wouldn't worry about it. That seems to be a typical noise from an aftermarket shifter. Is the car hard to shift or do you have a hard time getting any gear to engage? Those are usually the first signs of wear.

Joe
 
The thing is that it didn't do it for a few months and then out of nowhere it started doing it. (Actually it was right after I installed the Romac, but if I rev the car up in neutral and look at the balancer it looks smooth as glass). Trans runs perfect except for the jackhammer noise. Goes into gear perfect, doesn't grind on shifts, doesn't pop out of gear. Well, if the trans is fine, then that's great, but I've learned so much about the G-Force and the X2C TKO in the past few days from reading past threads on the corral. TONS OF INFO! Search on stangnet kinda sucks though.

Thanks

Jake
 
sounds to me like you need a new pilot bearing and the endplay in the tranny checked, over time shims etc. allow more endplay, and if all you are experiencing is vibration and no typical tranny symptoms then thats what it sounds like, that pilot bearing being worn out will cause tremendous vibrations. At the most all your tranny sounds like it needs is a new bearing kit, makes a huge diff.


jason
 
jake - about your shifter shaking.. Do you have an alum driveshaft or the stock one?? I had some serious vibration through the shifter, and above 4k in 3rd and 4th it would rattle hardcore. After i took the dogbone off and put an alum d/s in, its all smooth now.
 
you could re-shim it and put a few key bearings in for prob. about 50$ in parts.

i would just replace the mainshaft bearing the imput shaft bearing and the pilot bearing, and you have to really know what you are doing to get the endplay on the gearset just right


jason
 
Damn, never thought about that. The dogbone is off, but it's the stock DS. That would make sense, since the vibration is only in gear above a certain rpm. I might have to give that a try. Thanks Jesse.

Jake
 
You know the noise a roots style blower makes? Like the ones from a 03 Cobra? Well that's what your tranny will sound like with straight cut gears. It's strickly a drag race transmission-not very fun to drive on the street. But, it will handle lots of power.
 
I would back all of your positive stops out a bit and see if you still have the noise. With that few of miles on your car, I would be surprised if there is something wrong with your transmission. My car made that same noise you're describing until I got the positive stops adjusted correctly.

A driveshaft vibration seems to occur more commonly at highway speeds, but if you have gears you never know.