TKO600 Swap HELP!

To get a TKO 600 in a 68 with normal motor mounts at a correct driveline angle it is mandatory to cut the floor according to the measurements I made.

If you arent concerned with an angle over 4 degrees and a working angle over the ideal numbers then dont cut your tunnel.

Do you all ready have the TKO600?

C0V3R said:

To get a TKO 600 in a 68 with normal motor mounts at a correct driveline angle it is mandatory to cut the floor according to the measurements I made.

If you arent concerned with an angle over 4 degrees and a working angle over the ideal numbers then dont cut your tunnel.

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You can get it to set at 4 degrees by modifying the front aluminum top piece that holds the shift rods and fabricating a new inspection cover. Do a search; we've already covered this topic. The TKO 600 and TR3550 have the same external dimensions.

I have that same engine (actually a Roush 342R) in my '66. It is rated at 450hp/420 ft lb. Save yourself the drama of a TKO install with the pinion angle issues, and fit a T5z. It is a highly proven swap, with lots of support. The T5z is what I've got behind my Roush, I drive it hard and I've zero problems..

69gmachine said:

You can get it to set at 4 degrees by modifying the front aluminum top piece that holds the shift rods and fabricating a new inspection cover. Do a search; we've already covered this topic. The TKO 600 and TR3550 have the same external dimensions.

Click to expand...

I've read a lot about this on a lot of forums and its the first I've heard of a new inspection cover, not a bad idea though. Mine is set dead on 3 degrees so it would still have been nescessary.

What is the working angle on your car with that setup? (Note this is not the same as the angle of the gearbox.)

What angle are you guys talking about?
I have welded the engine mounts on my frame yet.

pinion angle, I believe it is the difference between the yolk centerline and drive shaft centerline.

C0V3R said:

I've read a lot about this on a lot of forums and its the first I've heard of a new inspection cover, not a bad idea though. Mine is set dead on 3 degrees so it would still have been nescessary.

What is the working angle on your car with that setup? (Note this is not the same as the angle of the gearbox.)

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I'm not sure what you mean by the working angle of my car, but here are the measurements I took:

With the car sitting on the wheels the front frame rails ahead of the shock towers indicate a rake of 1 degree down toward the front. The carb is level at zero degrees. The bellhousing face (rear face of block) is at 4 degrees down to the rear. Pinion angle is set to match.

The difference between the 10" and 10.5" clutch.. In '79 on the 5.0 had the 10" clutch. In '86 the clutch was upgraded to 10.5". The 10.5" clutches in Fox Mustangs all use 50 oz imbalance flywheels.

If you bought a crate motor there should be information about the balance with the motor. The 10.5" and 10" clutches in the Foxes both have flywheels with 157 teeth and use the same bell housings and starters, but the clutch parts are different.

The Ford King Cobra clutch is a good strong unit for a relatively reasonable price. It's the 10.5" clutch that Ford put behind the Cobra and Cobra R and it is supposed to have about 40% more holding power than the factory GT 10.5" clutch.

This site will give you all you need to determine the working angle. Its very good. They have some software you can download free as well.

http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html...pshaft_Angles.htm#Calculating working angles:

C0V3R said:

I've read a lot about this on a lot of forums and its the first I've heard of a new inspection cover, not a bad idea though. Mine is set dead on 3 degrees so it would still have been nescessary.

What is the working angle on your car with that setup? (Note this is not the same as the angle of the gearbox.)

Click to expand...

Working angle of the U-joints is 3 degrees.

So i might have to modify my transmission tunnel to get a TKO600 to fit?

You'll probably have to modify something. Depends what angle you want to get, but I guess you have the options of motor mounts, cover plates and floor depending a little on your car's tolerances and your preferences. You might need one or more of the above.

If you do it without modifying anything your driveline angle will be about 5-6 degrees, most probably with an excessive working angle.

Well my engine mounts aren't welded in yet on the frame and i was thinking of setting them parallel with the frame so maybe i should have them slightly leaning back.

Rather than leaning they would need to be lower I think. This is one of those things where you need to do the math. Do a trial fit if you can, measure the angles, check clearance and work out how much you would need to drop them and if it is possible.