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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

to cork or not to cork? (manifold re-seal)

  • Thread starter Thread starter SAYNOTORICE
  • Start date Start date Jun 2, 2005

SAYNOTORICE

New Member
Aug 21, 2003
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Massachusetts
Jun 2, 2005
#1
  • Jun 2, 2005
  • #1
do u guys use the cork gaskets that come with the felpro 1250 for the front and back of the lower manifold...when i installed mine last summer i was told not to use these gaskests and instead just use rtv gasket maker...i did this and i must not have used enough of the stuff cause it was leaking badly, hence the reason for the reseal...is there any reason not to use the cork gaskets, do u guys use them?
 

stang22

Active Member
Jan 29, 2003
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38
Washington, D.C.
Jun 2, 2005
#2
  • Jun 2, 2005
  • #2
I would say it is probably 50/50 here. I put my lower intake back on about 3 weeks ago and didn't use the cork gaskets and I don't have any leaks. I have read where people have used them and didn't have any problems and vice versa.

Tim
 
M

mfewtrail

Member
Sep 3, 2003
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6
North GA
Jun 2, 2005
#3
  • Jun 2, 2005
  • #3
Last time I changed intake gaskets on a 5.0, I used some permatex gasket maker and ditched the cork. I would put a little gasket maker/rtv under/over them if you do use the cork(even if they have that adhesive strip on them) to help keep them seated properly. Tighten everything down with a torque wrench and you shouldn't have a problem using cork(a lot of people crush them when tightening things by "feel").
 
W

wazazzle

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Mar 30, 2005
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In the dumpster behind McDonalds. WA
Jun 2, 2005
#4
  • Jun 2, 2005
  • #4
stang22... ditto 50/50
 

SAYNOTORICE

New Member
Aug 21, 2003
152
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0
Massachusetts
Jun 2, 2005
#5
  • Jun 2, 2005
  • #5
thanx guys im gonna try corking it
 

jrichker

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Mar 10, 2000
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Dublin GA
Jun 2, 2005
#6
  • Jun 2, 2005
  • #6
My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.

When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface, and on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.

Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.

Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Wala! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.

If you reuse the injectors from your old setup, a repair kit is available from most auto parts stores if needed. Coat the injector body "O" rings with oil before you use them and everything will slide back together. Take the other advice you got here and run with it.

Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $2.74 per kit. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:

http://www.partsplus.com/ or http://www.autovalue.com/ or http://www.pepboys.com/ or http://www.federatedautoparts.com/

Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.

Use motor oil on the O rings when you re-assemble them & everything will slide into place. The gasoline will wash away any excess oil that gets in the wrong places and it will burn up in the combustion chamber.
 
R

ratrapp

New Member
Apr 24, 2004
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buena vista,va
Jun 3, 2005
#7
  • Jun 3, 2005
  • #7
i always use the black rtv.the blue and red,especially blue aren't suited for this type of seal.if you have a dodge dealership around get some mopar black rtv,it's some of the best on the market.
 
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